If edge markings are fine, development was fine. If the frames are still blank, film was underexposed or unexposed for whatever reason. If both frames and edge marking are pale, then something must have gone wrong in the lab.
It's completely blank though, you can't even see any difference in transparency. Shouldn't there be difference even if the exposure was wrong?
If the exposure if off by more than four or five stops, you will end up with 100% blank frames. In reality, it's more likely that your shutter never opened, so I suspect some camera defect or malfunction. I've had this once with my Mamiya RZ67, its battery was dead and it fired all shots with 1/400 s. Dependent on light situation I had completely blank frames and some underexposed ones on that one roll.
All this still doesn't explain the one roll with pale edge markings, though, but maybe your lab can give you an explanation.
This other person with a Jobo presumably is not a lab but an amateur in a home darkroom? The first film with good edge markings but nothing else suggests as others have said that the C41 process was good and problem lies elsewhere so if the second film was developed at the same time by the same individual and resulted in faint image and faint edge marking then it suggests that the second C41 process wasn't good hence my question about the person with a Jobo.
I cannot make the good edge markings and faint edge markings on two films add up with no image and then faint images.
pentaxuser
I used the film that came out blank at the same time i used B&W film that came out good, i just switched the backs when i needed color, i suppose it's possible that something went wrong.
Is there a chance these two films weren't the same ISO speed and you adjusted exposure the wrong way? I did this once with TMAX100 and Provia 400X, and ended up with completely blank Provia slides, except for the edge markings, of course.
It's possible, at this point it's hard to say. I've noticed that once the extension tubes for RZ67 didn't connect properly, and the shutter worked at 1/400 only and i've got some blank frames on the B&W film because of that.
Since you seem to have an RZ67 like me, there are a few things you can look out for:
- If you suspect that your shutter is off: take off the film back, switch the knob for rotating the film back to "M" and select some exposure time around 1s. If you fire the shutter, you should see it open and close. If it doesn't open, or if it opens for shorter time than expected, then you know something is off.
- An RZ67 shouldn't fire with the dark slide in. If it does, get it fixed.
- If you use the prism finder and auto exposure, make sure that film speed is dialed in correctly on your film magazine. With the classic view finder, this dial is ignored.
- You do know how to check the battery of your RZ67 ? RZ67 act up like angry, tired toddlers if their batteries are weak ...
Thanks that's good advice. I've just noticed that the mirror up socket on the lens was sticking out a bit, and the shutter functioned in 1/400 only i think. That probably explains the blank film. What a pain in the ass.
I switched the battery just recently when the shutter wouldn't function properly, i had to push the button multiple times, it works fine now with a new battery.
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