Problems Mounting a 250mm Wide Field Ektar on a Sinar Board

jp80874

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Some time ago I bought a 10”, 250mm, Wide Field Ektar # ES 594 lens in an Ilex No. 5 shutter. My courses at school are finished this week and I am getting around to mounting the lens and shutter on a Sinar board. The board had been drilled for a Copal 3. I have ground out the hole to fit the Ilex. When tightening down the Midwest Photo provided flange, I find the f stop adjusting “thingy” binds on the board. In taking it apart again it looks as if a small gasket, which I could cut, would raise the shutter enough to allow the adjuster "thingy" to move. Am I missing a gasket-washer or is there another better way to solve the problem?

Thanks for your help.

John Powers
 

PHOTOTONE

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I have a 14" Commercial Ektar mounted on a Sinar board, and the shutter and general size of the lens is quite the same...it too is in an Ilex No. 5 shutter. These lenses were made to screw into a flange that is mounted with screws on the OUTSIDE of the lensboard, thus the lens mounted this way has a bit of clearance, or gap, between the back of the shutter and the lensboard. If you use the flange as a jam nut on the inside of the lensboard, (like you would with a modern Copal shutter) then you may have binding of the aperture ring pointer assembly. Sinar boards are metal. This means you can't use wood screws to secure the flange. You need small machine screws that go thru the flange and lensboard (in drilled holes) and are secured with nuts on the inside. You can get tiny machine screws and washers and nuts at Radio Shack in small assortments. Also at major hardware stores. If the heads of the screws stick up too much, you can file them down a bit with a hand file. A Sinar lens board is aluminum and can be easily drilled with a hand held power drill.
 

Michael Kadillak

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My flange on my 250mm Ektar is mounted such that the thick portion is on the top of the lens board and it is bolted to the lens board. The space that is provided in this orientation provides for sufficient space for the f stop ring. I personally have never seen any gaskets required for an Ilex #5 mount or for any Ilex shutter mount. But I send all of my Ilex mounts out to be sure that they are done correctly. Cheers!
 
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jp80874

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Oh, that took an ugly turn. I thought the holes in the flange were for my Grimes built wrench. Yes, I am mistakenly using the flange on the inside of the board (toward the ground glass) as a jam nut. Before I try your instructions, do you see anything wrong with my idea of making a small gasket, assuming there is enough thread? I would find that a LOT easier than drilling and matching the holes.

Thank you,

John
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Well, as long as it's light tight and centered properly, and if it doesn't create mechanical issues for the lens (like the levers hitting the standard or the lensboard frame, if you're not actually using a Sinar), you could try it.
 
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jp80874

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Thank you David. I will be using it primarily on a Phillips Explorer 7x17, but may also try it on my Phillips Advantage 8x10. I have some different types of gasket material, even some thin black rubber, from playing with old cars. I think making test gaskets will be far easier than getting the machine screws, holes and nuts in place. I don't see anything to lose in the attempt, but I wanted wiser heads than mine to offer their experience. If it doesn't work I image one sheet of film will let me know and then back to the machine screws. Any other thoughts appreciated.

Than you all for such fast answers.

John
 

JBrunner

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You can use a couple of clamps to secure the flange to the board and drill out two of the holes. After you have secured the flange with machine screws & nuts in those two, you can drill and secure the rest.
 
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jp80874

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Thank you JB. Forgive me, I didn’t mean to convey that I didn’t know how to align the holes. As a life long boater I have developed this aversion to through hull fittings that might fail and let water spout in or in this case light on the negative. I realize now that this is the way it has been done traditionally. With wooden lens boards and wood screws it makes more sense. With, nuts and bolts it is abhorrent to me. That said it will probably end up that way.

John
 
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jp80874

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Once again dragged me kicking and screaming into doing the correct thing. I just returned from Home Depot with bunch of tiny flat head #4 machine screws, nuts, washers and lock washers. Down to the shop to drill and grind, maybe even spray some flat black on all this shiny stuff.

Thanks all,

John
 

RobertP

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John, You'll be a tool and die maker/fabricator in no time.
 
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jp80874

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All done. Gave the nuts, lock washers and screw ends a spray of flat black to avoid reflections. I even lined up the screw slots with the curve of the flange. My first job was as a salesman with Remington Arms. It was amazing how persuasive a tool and die maker could be when brandishing the fully automatic 12ga. riot gun Remington made for Vietnam guard posts. Even though the Sinar board will fit all four ways I lined up the Sinar name opposite the controls as suggested, though I had not read your post at the time. If it is a retirement hobby for the joy it brings you, you might as well take the time to do it right. Thank you all for answering my questions and then walking me down the straight and narrow.

John
 
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