• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

problem with Zone VI variable contrast head

Man in black

A
Man in black

  • 0
  • 0
  • 29
New Growth

A
New Growth

  • 1
  • 1
  • 30

Forum statistics

Threads
203,351
Messages
2,853,307
Members
101,799
Latest member
Jeong
Recent bookmarks
0

BradS

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
8,129
Location
Soulsbyville, California
Format
35mm
The hard light works ok but the soft light doesn't work...

Can I fix this ? (how?)

or, do I need to send it out for repair? (and to whom?)
 
Calumet bought Zone VI years ago, so they should repair it.
If you bought it before Calumet, it was life guaranted.
 
You might check with Aristo. I have no experience with this head but I believe it is a cold light and Aristo is the source for them. Fred Picker, the originator of Zone VI, is no longer of this world; Calumet bought Zone VI from Picker and would be the other likely source for parts and information. Aristo sells a similar light (you can see it on their web site) but it is quite expensive. Good luck!
 
Aristo was never the original source for either the Type I or Type II Zone VI enlarger heads. Tubes for the Type I are no longer available. Tubes for the Type II are available through Calumet.

I have heard of Aristo retrofitting their product to Zone VI enlargers. Call them, if interested.
 
Brad, how are you doing with this project?

Mike

Not very well. I still need to contact Calumet regarding repairs but, am hesitating because I don't think I want to hear what they have to say (I suspect they are going to say the repairs will cost $$$$ - and I really only have $).

a memeber here offered to sell his VC head...at what seems like it maybe a fair price...unfortunately, I just don't have a bunch of cash to devote to this....maybe, I'll sell something and make the leap.
 
I tried a cc20y filter below the light source, but had to settle on a cc40y filter to make the head print with normal contrast with the soft and hard lights at equal settings. I used my standard test negative; a full range scene that printed well at max black time on Zone VI brilliant grade 2 in Zone VI developer at normal time, temperature and dilution.

I'll never believe any marketing hype spewing from Zone VI again! :mad:

edit: don't use Zone VI paper or developer anymore either. :mad: :mad:

Murray
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Brad,
Could you supply more details of your head and controller box? Have you tried wiggling the "telephone" style connector at the back of the box? White happens on the white light setting? I suggest you contact Richard Ritter in Vermont for help first.

Tim
 
Hi Brad,
Could you supply more details of your head and controller box? Have you tried wiggling the "telephone" style connector at the back of the box? White happens on the white light setting? I suggest you contact Richard Ritter in Vermont for help first.

Tim

hmm, no. i haven't tried that yet. will give it a try.....
 
Brad, please keep us up to date. I've thought about trying to acquire one of these and am interested in potential issues.

Thanks

Mike
 
Hi All,

I have the exact same problem with my zone vi type 1 enlarger (soft tube appears to not work correctly). I've tried emailing Calumet but no response...

Is it possible to put contrast filters under the lens? Any other solutions?

Thanks

Rob
 
Hi All,

I have the exact same problem with my zone vi type 1 enlarger (soft tube appears to not work correctly). I've tried emailing Calumet but no response...

Is it possible to put contrast filters under the lens? Any other solutions?

Yup!

I tried a cc20y filter below the light source, but had to settle on a cc40y filter to make the head print with normal contrast with the soft and hard lights at equal settings. I used my standard test negative; a full range scene that printed well at max black time on Zone VI brilliant grade 2 in Zone VI developer at normal time, temperature and dilution.

Murray
 
Originally Posted by MurrayMinchin
"I tried a cc20y filter below the light source, but had to settle on a cc40y filter to make the head print with normal contrast with the soft and hard lights at equal settings. I used my standard test negative; a full range scene that printed well at max black time on Zone VI brilliant grade 2 in Zone VI developer at normal time, temperature and dilution."

So if I understand correctly, I need a cc20y directly under the light source, then I can use regular contrast filters under the lens?

Is the yellow filter necessary?

Thanks

Rob
 
We're talking about the same cold light head, aren't we...the one with separate dial controls for the soft and hard lights? The settings go from Min, then A to H, then Max?

With a cc40y filter under the light source (above the negative) I got normal contrast with the soft and hard lights at equal settings in the middle of their intensity range. At the same settings without the filter I got heinously harsh contrast. The filter stays in all the time. I don't use contrast filters under the lens because the soft and hard lights now work together.

The yellow filter compensates for the weak soft light.

Murray
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes, same cold light head. I have a similar problem. I can only get close to grade 2 on VC paper if I turn the hard light way down (I used grade paper as a comparison).

I'm with you now. I thought about using my Ilford contrast filters under the lens, leaving both lamps at maximum, then just switching filters to suit. I know it defeats the object of having the variable contrast head, but I was looking for a cheap solution to my problem.

Thanks for your help,

Rob
 
No prob, Rob :smile:

Hope this helps until you find a head that actually works as advertised!

Murray
 
How come cc filters will work if the output of the head is either blue or green light. Won't the filters be just neutral density filters since they only pass the part of white light they pass, not blue or green?
 
Yes, it does mean a bit longer printing times, but adds the needed yellow to the weak green light. It worked for my head, but may not work for someone else's as each of our heads can be screwed up in unique ways :wink:

Murray
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom