Problem with Rollei 35 SE

Hi everyone,

I just got the 35 SE from a self proclaimed old cameras specialist, and as soon as I tried the camera I noticed that:

1. the film winder won't wind, somehow it's stuck and won't move;
2. the shutter button seems also stuck, because of the winder I guess;
3. the lightmeter doesn't work: I I tried with 4x1.5V batteries, but maybe this is not correct?;
4. the aperture dial seems loose: it turns flawlessly, I supposed it would stop at every full-stop aperture (with a click or something, like the shutter speed dial);
5. the shutter curtain is closed, as if it closed down after pressing the shutter button, but didn't re-open;
6. the button for unlocking the lens is also a tad loose, so I don't understand in what position it must be for me to pull out the lens: the lens can be pulled out, regardless of the position of the button.

This is what I noticed right away, and hope that someone here can shed some light for me on what might be the problem.

Thank you!

Gimarc said:

1. the film winder won't wind, somehow it's stuck and won't move;

Click to expand...

Are you sure it's not already armed ?

Gimarc said:

2. the shutter button seems also stuck, because of the winder I guess;

Click to expand...

I believe you try with the lens expended.

Gimarc said:

3. the lightmeter doesn't work: I I tried with 4x1.5V batteries, but maybe this is not correct?;

Click to expand...

The 35 SE is supposed to receive PX27 5.6V and not 6V.

Gimarc said:

4. the aperture dial seems loose: it turns flawlessly, I supposed it would stop at every full-stop aperture (with a click or something, like the shutter speed dial);

Click to expand...

Just under the aperture dial, you have a metal button which you can lock or unlock on the side. When you lock it, the aperture dial is flawlessly. When it's lock, the aperture is lock. When you turn the aperture dial, do you see the diaphragm moving ?

Gimarc said:

5. the shutter curtain is closed, as if it closed down after pressing the shutter button, but didn't re-open;

Click to expand...

The shuter curtain is supposed to be close. It's just open when you take the photo.

Gimarc said:

6. the button for unlocking the lens is also a tad loose, so I don't understand in what position it must be for me to pull out the lens: the lens can be pulled out, regardless of the position of the button.

Click to expand...

When the lens is collapsed, this button is loose. the button is supposed to be down to pull out the lens. The lens is supposed to make a small turn in clock direction in order to be locked. Then, to put back the lens, you need to pull down the button.

You can find the manual here. Perhaps it can helps.

Hi Gimarc,

rollei 35 is not intuitive camera - try to see some videos on youtube of how to use it (load, rewind, and so on).
After having bunch of cameras - when I bought rollei 35 first I watched videos on youtube - it is a quirky little camera .

Thank you for the replies, everyone!

Fortunately for me, the problem was simply that I did not know that after pulling out the lens, it had to be turned and locked in position. Once I did that, I could release the shutter button, open and close the diaphragm and the lightmeter could function properly.

Do you think that having 6V instead of 5.6V might be a problem?

Thanks again.

Shuuter has to be cocked to close the lens. If the lens goes in, the shutter is armed. The lens has to turn slightly clockwise to lock, then it will fire. To close lens, cock shutter, press button, twist lens and close. - or at leastthat's how it works on my 35B and I think they are all similar.

Gimarc said:

Do you think that having 6V instead of 5.6V might be a problem?

Click to expand...

Compare with other camera that has correct light meter, and then simply change iso on rollei to match.

On the battery issue, I have an SE too, have since I bought it new in the early 80's. The 5.7 volt battery is no longer available, at least in the US. I never could get 4 batteries in my camera, but I can get 3 with a couple of washers to take up space. The LEDs are a bit dim, but the meter is accurate.

My 35SE has seen hundreds, if not thousands of rolls of film. I carried it with me during my working years (field service engineer for much of my career) and it never failed me. I did have to clean and lube the "transmission" a couple of times when the slow shutter speeds got off, but other than nothing else was done. I still carry it on my motorcycle. Great camera, too bad they don't make them anymore. With a couple small hand tools you can service it yourself. Just take the top off, remove the film advance gears and the timing mechanism is just below it. I clean it with solvent and use clock oil to re-lube it. Just mark the film advance gears to know how to mate them again. This can save having to take it apart two or three times to re-synch them.

Mine is starting to wear a bit, the film spacing is not even anymore, but the film does not slip so the images are still good. Many of my photos on this site were taken with the camera.

Hi Darko,

Thanks so much for your to-the-point answer: this has saved me £ on buying a mercuy battery converter...

Robert

ZBattery.com sells a PX27 equivalent, although the new cell is 6 volts compared with the original, which was 5.6 volts.

Glad to hear that you sorted out the problems. Most "problems" with the camera come from not knowing how to operate the camera.

Remember these tips:

- Never force the film advance if it stops mid-frame when you reach the end of the roll.

- The shutter must always be tensioned before you can collapse the lens.

- The lever on the aperture dial on the SE/TE models can lock into place, which allows the dial to spin freely.

- Never force anything on the Rollei 35 cameras. Ever.

- Take your time loading the film.

- Sometimes you have to jiggle the back a bit when replacing it.

Hello,
four SR 44/PX 76/357 cells do not fit into the battery compartment but with an adapter four type 386 cells (the height of this cell is a little bit lower, I think this is the SR 43 type) will fit. In the original mercury battery there were also 4 cells of the same size as the 386). You can make such an adapter from a piece of plastic tube, plastic tape or shrinking hose. You can read different opinions, some say the 35 SE's meter will measure correct with 6 V, others say the camera has to be recalibrated.

Hey Guys/Gals

I scored a mint Rollei 35 SE, looks like it was never even used, got the box, receipt, flash. Of course issues with the meter. I used the 6V PX27 replacement you can find around. Meter always reads overexposed. I can get the two lights to light up if I use a crazy over-exposure setting like daylight 1/6, f2.8.

Whatever, my gut tells me it is not worth fixing and the meter is likely not very good anyway. Just thought I'd throw it out there for any other thoughts before I add yet another Sunny-16 camera to my shelf. Yes, an independent light meter would work, but kind of defeats the purpose of a camera that fits in the palm of your hand.

Well, I gotta say, without a meter or rangefinder, the practicality of this little thing is, shall we say, limited?

Shot my one and only roll of P3200 at my daughter's ballet recital. Guessed around f2.8, 1/60. Should be interesting to see what I get.

I cant put a whole list of how many things are wrong with my 35S. Sonnar 40mm , isnt it ? If you measured the light with lightmeter before , it would not be a problem. I saw some very saturated shots with my camera at web and than I found I forgot the photoshop tricks !!! I think flickr based decisions are far off from the realities. But in my experience , if you did not vibrate the camera , your images would perfect , german lenses and sonnar and lens grain not film grain are wonderful on whites and yellow lights.
To make everything safe , if you shot few rolls , develop only one to see the exposure than continue with others. Even 200 ASA is enough for theater lights.

A built in light meter is a superfluous luxury. Easy to live without. Get a free light meter app for your smart phone. Too good a camera with too good a lens to sit on a shelf!

OK. Just developed the roll and am pleasantly surprised. Things turned out well for the most part. The frame spacing appears a little inconsistent. The frames appear wider than the usual 2x3 ratio. Am I losing my mind? Is that possible?

BTW, I need a smart phone before I get a smartphone light meter app.

Lens unable to lock

Hi All,

I just bought a 35 SE.
Everything seems to be turning smooth, except for the lens barrel, which I can't seem to lock in place.
It's not that it is loose or anything, it's just that something seems to be blocking it to click it into place.
I opened up the back to have a look and it seems to be that some kind of pin (I assume the unlock/lock lever seems to be in the lock positions) is blocking it from turning and getting it to lock for shooting.

I gently touched some levers to see if the rest was working, as they seemed to be in a strange position, and afterwards I was able to lock the lens into place.
I did some test winding/firing and put the lens back (after winding) and now it is stuck again....

Anyone know this issue and know how I can fix it?

Thanks in advance.

Hi Lauzi,

Welcome to APUG .
To repair Rollei is very expensive, it will cost you more than you paid for it. I would just use the camera and not put the lens back - leave it extended all the time. Or if you can get the money back - send the camera back to the seller.