sorry i suggested you contact rockland colloid, i thought it was their developer + emulsoin you were using,not a
home-brew version of the developer and black magic ... i do not believe they will help you
since you are not using any of their products,,,
seeing the emulsion unattaches from the plate, it means you didn't clean the plate well enough and the gelatin in the emulsion did not bind/adhere/glue itself to the plate.
you need to clean the aluminium ( never heard of using acetone ) with washing soda/sodium carbonate/baking soda. scrub it so water runs off it and doesn't stick.
you need to either coat the plate with photograde gelatin and let it get hard. i have used food grade it works OK ...
get a pizza stone ( or something similar to retain COLD ) and put it in your FREEZER. coat your plate and put it on the stone or "cold thing"
the emulsion will stick well to the plate i do not put mine in a refrigerator, if that works do it ... you need air circulating to dry the emulsion well
i usually leave mine in the darkroom with the lights off.
contrary to what you have been told ...
silver gelatin ferrotypes are not false tintypes. they were developed in the 1880s and were popular into the 1920s+ as an alternative to people who did not
want to work with explosive collodion ( if it lights on fire it gives off toxic smoke ) and not so nice KCn. people did them not only on metal
paper as well, and "street photographers" and "carnival photographers" would make photographs on metal
and paper + post cards while people waited. i've made them
on glass as well as metal and paper...
i can't speak to your coating the plate with urethane, sometimes that works, it has never worked well for me when i started coating thing with emulsion years ago,
ALSO when the urethane gets old it yellows which some like, some don't.
i do not know the recipe you have given for your reversal developer .. it is similar to what the rockland supposedly contains
it is proprietary so no one knows for sure the amounts, but it contains dektol ( 1 quart dilute to a gallon container ) sodium carbonate, thocyanate and spent fixer ...
i do not know the chemistry particulars but from what i understand the devloper and fixer work together as a monobathdeveloper and it exhausts and then the cyanate bleaches the image
so what was black is greyish white and what was white ( clear ), well, it has the black of the tin so it appears to be a reversed image. when i make them
i use a hardened fixer, instead of putting hardener in the developer, i guess you can do both.
seeing the emulsion is sliding off the plate use something cold and maybe gelatin instead of the urethane and wash your plates really well.
the coat on paper and turn the lights on will also tell you if your black magic is dead as well.
good luck