Pro S and Pro SD Backs Double Exposure Lever

norm123 · Apr 13, 2015

Hi all

I just got a Mamiya RB67 Pro SD body with a 180 K/L and a 65 C lenses and a Pro SD back, Pro S back.

I didn't put a film inside the backs for now. If I understood right, I can release the shutter without film only when I see the red dot on the backs Pro S and Pro SD.
When there is no film and the red dot is masked (multiple exposure lever disengaged) I can't release the shutter. Am I right?

Thank you

Kyle M. · Apr 13, 2015

Yep flip the lever to where the red dot is visible, pull out the darkslide and it should fire. When the dot is covered it will not fire unless it is loaded and advanced to a blank frame. At least I'm pretty sure thats how it works, I haven't had an RB since last September so I may have forgotten something.

markbarendt · Apr 13, 2015

I don't know exactly which backs I have, and I think my bodies are plain old pro, but on mine red indicates that the shutter has fired, White indicates at the double exposure indicator has been reset.

Film or not it seems to work the same.

On my cameras there is no interlock that keeps the shutter from firing whether red or white. The indicator is just that indicator on mine, later models IDK.

With regard to the dark slide as you pull it out there's a small triangle that becomes visible, if you pull just far enough to see the whole triangle the shutter will fire but it can't expose the film, so you can test it with film in the camera, just don't advance the film.

Xmas · Apr 13, 2015

norm123 said:
Hi all

I just got a Mamiya RB67 Pro SD body with a 180 K/L and a 65 C lenses and a Pro SD back, Pro S back.

I didn't put a film inside the backs for now. If I understood right, I can release the shutter without film only when I see the red dot on the backs Pro S and Pro SD.
When there is no film and the red dot is masked (multiple exposure lever disengaged) I can't release the shutter. Am I right?

Thank you

You need to down load the user manual because it is way too easy to get stuck when you want to make a real exposure and the camera does not.

markbarendt · Apr 13, 2015

Xmas said:
You need to down load the user manual because it is way too easy to get stuck when you want to make a real exposure and the camera does not.

Yep.

And simply practice using all the features like rotating the back and mirror up and ... and ... before you need it.

There are a whole variety of reasons that the camera will not want to fire, and on mine it's always been something I did or didn't do, the cameras have been perfectly reliable.

Once you get a bit of experience with the camera you'll see.

MattKing · Apr 13, 2015

markbarendt said:
I don't know exactly which backs I have, and I think my bodies are plain old pro, but on mine red indicates that the shutter has fired, White indicates at the double exposure indicator has been reset.

I think that is the indicator, not the red spot that is revealed when you move the lever.

markbarendt · Apr 13, 2015

MattKing said:
I think that is the indicator, not the red spot that is revealed when you move the lever.

All that matters is red means shutter has fired

MattKing · Apr 13, 2015

markbarendt said:
All that matters is red means shutter has fired

There are two red "spots", in different locations, which serve different functions.

John Koehrer · Apr 13, 2015

Free from Mamiya.

http://www.mamiyaleaf.com/assets/files/documentation/RB67_Pro-S_v7.pdf

MattKing · Apr 13, 2015

Compare #s 23 and 39 in the manual.

And as you will see, in both cases there is a red "mark" rather than a red "spot". Sorry for any confusion created.

M Carter · Apr 13, 2015

As I recall, Pro backs have different functionality than Pro-S backs… less safety interlock sorts of features. Might want to poke around for more info on that as well? (I only own Pro-S right now…)

norm123 · Apr 14, 2015

MattKing said:
There are two red "spots", in different locations, which serve different functions.

Yes there are 2 red...something. One red dot who is visible when you move the lever who is on the right and top of the back (you're behind the camera).

The other red...something is a small square visible on the counter of view. When it is visible, it means that the shot is done and you need to wind the film and cock the shutter.

Regards

Sorry for my poor English.

MattKing · Apr 14, 2015

norm123 said:
Sorry for my poor English.

Mais non - votre English - c'est si bon!

norm123 · Apr 14, 2015

MattKing said:
Mais non - votre English - c'est si bon!

LOL Thank you so much!

Xmas · Apr 14, 2015

Your English is clear enough.
The red dot visible when you move the small lever concentric with and below the film wind on lever is the double exposure control. When the red dot is showing you can make double (ie multiple) exposures.
My backs are 120/220 so the other displays are different.

To use the camera you need to download the user manual in French.

The camera is very difficult to operate.

MattKing · Apr 14, 2015

It seems Xmas and I disagree about the RB67. I find it very easy to operate, once one beclmes familiar with it.

It is a lot easier to become familiar with than my one and only digital camera.

Kirks518 · Apr 15, 2015

I think I would agree with Matt. It's not a difficult camera to operate, it's just difficult to remember all the steps to take a photo. I can't tell you how many times I've tried to press the shutter, and nothing. And I check the shutter cocking, yup. Then I check the film advance, yup. Then I stare at it. For a while. And I stare some more. And then I finally remember the dark slide. I just can't get used to that darn thing! I also have a bad habit of forgetting to unlock the shutter....

But yeah, it's easy..........

Xmas · Apr 15, 2015

It is even easy to take photos on the backing paper rather than on the film.

So has anyone used one without the manual?

film_man · Apr 15, 2015

I have used mine without the manual, I downloaded it later just to be sure there isn't anything I missed but with the exception of dry firing it where you need to know about the multi exposure lever the rest is straightforward. So what exactly is difficult about it?

I'd like to know how exactly it is easy to take photos on the backing paper. You load the film just like you'd do on everything else, you wind it on till 1 shows up in the frame counter just like you'd do on everything else, you make sure the dark slide is out just like on anything else and then you take the photo. Just like you'd do on everything else.

To take a photo you need to
1 make sure the camera is cocked
2 make sure the dark slide is out
3 make sure the shutter lock is not engaged

This is remarkably similar to operating a Hasselblad, Bronica, Mamiya and pretty much anything else unless the only prior experience is with 35mm cameras.

Trond · Apr 15, 2015

Reading the manual is always recommended, but I find the RB67 logical and simple to operate. The interlocks are very helpful I think. I also use a Mamiya Universal which has no interlocks whatsoever. That makes the camera simpler to use, in a manner of speaking, but I would have avoided a lot of blank frames and double exposures if the camera had something preventing me from making them..

Trond

Xmas · Apr 15, 2015

The op has a 65C most of them have a depth of field scale just like a 90mm C,... But it is a floating group control with rules you either read the manual or get less than optimal results.

Similar problems with extension tubes on all 55 to 150 lens.

The manual tells you how to store and mount lenses there are threads on the fora from people who have jammed breech lock rings.

I need a flash light to load film in dark... YMMV

( note The blad manual does not tell you to carry a screwdriver)

film_man · Apr 15, 2015

Xmas said:
The op has a 65C most of them have a depth of field scale just like a 90mm C,... But it is a floating group control with rules you either read the manual or get less than optimal results.

Similar problems with extension tubes on all 55 to 150 lens.

The manual tells you how to store and mount lenses there are threads on the fora from people who have jammed breech lock rings.

I need a flash light to load film in dark... YMMV

( note The blad manual does not tell you to carry a screwdriver)

You're really not saying anything that is specific to the RB67. Floating rings? Yes hasselblads have them, you need to remember to set these too.

Tubes? What problems are you referring to? Ever tried to mount tubes on a Hasselblad? Make sure you do it in the right order or that screwdriver will come in handy. The blad manual doesn't tell you to carry a screwdriver but it should, I had to use one not just once or twice.

Flash light to load film in the dark? Well I don't know, its just as slow as with a Hassy/Bronica. In fact it is pretty much the exact same way you load a Bronica.

Have you actually used an RB or are you just going by what the internet says...

I mean, they're not point and shoot cameras, if you ever used a medium format camera of any brand you can use an RB without a manual. I don't get what the issue is.

Xmas · Apr 15, 2015

The op has just bought a 65C there were two one with floating group one without - he needs to be aware which?

The 67 manual tells you max aperture to use with each lens with tubes and which combinations give you vignetting.

The OP would be ok with a 140 cause he will have the late body scale but early 67 won't necessarily have the later scale, new 140s came with new scales.

He would need the manual for a 150.

My RB which Ive had from '85 is a ProS with grip, power pack and pola back, I have the 55, 65, 90, 150, 250 and four MD 120/220 backs.

My 67 enlarger is in small pieces but that I don't have tubes tis true. None of my lenses are optimal for tubes.

I read your post that it is stupid to down load a free manual?

film_man · Apr 15, 2015

Xmas said:
The op has just bought a 65C there were two one with floating group one without - he needs to be aware which?

The 67 manual tells you max aperture to use with each lens with tubes and which combinations give you vignetting.

The OP would be ok with a 140 cause he will have the late body scale but early 67 won't necessarily have the later scale, new 140s came with new scales.

He would need the manual for a 150.

My RB which Ive had from '85 is a ProS with grip, power pack and pola back, I have the 55, 65, 90, 150, 250 and four MD 120/220 backs.

My 67 enlarger is in small pieces but that I don't have tubes tis true. None of my lenses are optimal for tubes.

I read your post that it is stupid to down load a free manual?

I never said it is stupid to download a free manual! I downloaded it myself as well!

I'm just saying that it is not a difficult camera to use, certainly no more difficult than other medium format cameras. Hasselblad also published a document which explained which tubes with which lenses give you what magnification and what exposure compensation is needed.

Anyways...

Xmas · Apr 15, 2015

film_man said:
You're really not saying anything that is specific to the RB67. Floating rings? Yes hasselblads have them, you need to remember to set these too.

My 67 65mm and 90mm both have rotating depth of field scales, non floating blads lenses don't? A
specific and seductive problem. There is no indication that the 65 has a floating group and some don't (supposedly) my manual does not clarify latter case. My 65 lens group moves so I know it is floating...

film_man said:
I mean, they're not point and shoot cameras, if you ever used a medium format camera of any brand you can use an RB without a manual. I don't get what the issue is.

Is your degree in sophistry?
-sophists always put a false phrase at front to permit their false hood argument. Politicians do this too.
I've used mine P&S 55mm preset to /5.6 and 6 foot. Lots of early 20th century press and candid shots were medium format or larger, indeed back then 120 was regarded as a minature camera film by some.

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