Pro: Nice lens, compact size. Cons: Expensive, no interchangeable lens, no manual exposure control, if it goes bad, you probably won't be able to get it fixed. An SLR will let you frame more accurately with a larger viewfinder. The contax viewfinder will be more useable in low-light situations. Look at more cameras--there are too of SLRs and point-and shoot 35s out there.
Thankyou. I was a bit concerned about finding a lense on a Slr that may be sharp like the Zeiss.
Presumably you are not judging the quality of Zeiss (or other) lenses from youtube videos?From looking at YouTube videos,(....) quality of the photos seem to be very good on the contax Zeiss lense.
Good that you ask yourself this question. I would advise strongly that you do not invest too much into a camera before you find out what fits your preferences (pictures you want to take, and the process of taking pictures). Remember also that 100% of photographers that took a photo had a camera with them (not true anymore in smartphone era...) the point being that the oh-so-versatile SLR will tend to be left at home just on the day when the opportunity of photos arises; not so with the modest point-and-shoot.Would there be any other reason for me to buy a Slr first, If I’m happy to shoot it 35 mm? For a photo shoot or candid shots, I’m thinking I would get similar results
Why not start with a first-generation (1985-1990 vintage) non-zoom P&S, like (just an example):Photography or status. It is your choice.
the benefit of an SLR is that it is a system camera and with the appropriate attachments capable of almost any photographic task.a point-and shoot is perfectly fine for everyday photography but will bee quickly limited as the user advances.still, it may serve you well for many years and produce high-quality images rivalling many pro cameras.I am looking to move into film photography, and are currently deciding between a Slr and a contax T2.
From looking at YouTube videos, the main benefit of an Slr is that you can change lenses, where as the point-and-shoot has a fixed 38 mm I think. The actual quality of the photos seem to be very good on the contax Zeiss lense.
Would there be any other reason for me to buy a Slr first, If I’m happy to shoot it 35 mm? For a photo shoot or candid shots, I’m thinking I would get similar results
Thanks
Presumably you are not judging the quality of Zeiss (or other) lenses from youtube videos?
I use a Zeiss on my digital camera and it’s great.
Good that you ask yourself this question. I would advise strongly that you do not invest too much into a camera before you find out what fits your preferences (pictures you want to take, and the process of taking pictures). Remember also that 100% of photographers that took a photo had a camera with them (not true anymore in smartphone era...) the point being that the oh-so-versatile SLR will tend to be left at home just on the day when the opportunity of photos arises; not so with the modest point-and-shoot.
This is a great point!
And even within choices for point-and-shoot, KoFe's advice is valid:
Why not start with a first-generation (1985-1990 vintage) non-zoom P&S, like (just an example):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exc3-OLYMP...Point-Shoot-mju-style-from-Japan/312766963207
If the style suits you, and you want to gain, err, status, you can "upgrade" to MjuII, Yashica T4, or even "better" Contax T2. No sure they will allow better pictures.
I’ve looked at these are the cameras, the Yashica is quite similar in price, and the Contax have photos that were sharper overall which is what I’m looking for.
Oh, and just in case you feel that my recommendation of a P&S is condescending, here is what I had in my backpack during the last summer holidays:
- Fujica GS645W (MF) loaded with Neopan 400 for artsy-fartsy photography;
- Olympus 35RC (compact rangefinder, 70's vintage) loaded with FP4 for general snapshots
- Nikon AF600 Lite Touch (plastic P&S, 28mm lens) loaded with UltraColor neg film, for a project of small-town storefronts;
- Olympus Mju-II loaded with FP4, selected for its close-focus capability (35cm versus 90cm for the 35RC, IIRC), again for a specific project of patterns in the beach sand.
I will need to check these out. Thanks
I did not mean to recommend these specific cameras; in such a thread there is a tendency for respondents to recommend... the camera that they have wisely chosen.I will need to check these out. Thanks
Strictly used as a point and shoot - where you rely on the camera to make all the decisions for you, I agree that anyone would be hard pressed to see difference in results between a pro slr and a point and shoot camera.Would there be any other reason for me to buy a Slr first, If I’m happy to shoot it 35 mm? For a photo shoot or candid shots, I’m thinking I would get similar results
Thanks
Strictly speaking about sharpness and resolving the tiniest details, every lens I have ever used has never been the weakest link. By far, the weakest link in the sharpness chain is how steady is the user - tripod, have fast enough shutter speed, focus aid and image stabilization all help. Second weakest link is how the detail captured on the film is extracted (scanner/optical print) and how it is viewed (on-screen/print). A distant third is the type of film used. And the last factor that can hinder sharpness is the lens - provided it is in good working order.Thankyou. I was a bit concerned about finding a lense on a Slr that may be sharp like the Zeiss. I’ll have a look around. I am looking at Nikon f4.
the point being that the oh-so-versatile SLR will tend to be left at home
Mass, body only : 1210gyou can get a Nikon F5
Mass, body only : 1210g
If an SLR, the Nikon F80 has a body-only mass of 515g, and not an entry-level model. Sure, some specs are better for the F5. Better be sure you need those specs badly enough to carry a body mass +140%.
Re-read the post from me that you quote.It is not Contax T2 / Yashica T4 or whatever versus SLR. Accepting that the OP might well prefer the ergonomics or the flexibility of an SLR, I'm just saying: think twice (specs, features, price, weight, reliability) before choosing an F5 over an F80.As I said in the first post. The T2 is much easier to carry around
What he said.Strictly speaking about sharpness and resolving the tiniest details, every lens I have ever used has never been the weakest link. By far, the weakest link in the sharpness chain is how steady is the user - tripod, have fast enough shutter speed, focus aid and image stabilization all help. Second weakest link is how the detail captured on the film is extracted (scanner/optical print) and how it is viewed (on-screen/print). A distant third is the type of film used. And the last factor that can hinder sharpness is the lens - provided it is in good working order.
Between film and lens as a factor affecting sharpness I suppose there are inherently poor performing no-name brand plastic lenses out there that can move it straight to the top as a weakest link. And of course there are some super high resolving film out there that can actually outresolve a high quality lens too so position 3 & 4 can be interchangeable.
...the main benefit of an Slr is that you can change lenses, where as the point-and-shoot has a fixed 38 mm I think...
Price. Although one could possibly get an N80 for almost nothing. The price of the F5 isn't expensive. Features wise they are about the same although the F5 has more. Weight for me is a non issue once you go past the pocket size camera. Reliability? All cameras we are talking about are used and I see in no way the N80 is more reliable than an F5.Re-read the post from me that you quote.It is not Contax T2 / Yashica T4 or whatever versus SLR. Accepting that the OP might well prefer the ergonomics or the flexibility of an SLR, I'm just saying: think twice (specs, features, price, weight, reliability) before choosing an F5 over an F80.
Oh, and just in case you feel that my recommendation of a P&S is condescending, here is what I had in my backpack during the last summer holidays:
- Fujica GS645W (MF) loaded with Neopan 400 for artsy-fartsy photography;
- Olympus 35RC (compact rangefinder, 70's vintage) loaded with FP4 for general snapshots
- Nikon AF600 Lite Touch (plastic P&S, 28mm lens) loaded with UltraColor neg film, for a project of small-town storefronts;
- Olympus Mju-II loaded with FP4, selected for its close-focus capability (35cm versus 90cm for the 35RC, IIRC), again for a specific project of patterns in the beach sand.
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