Prioritize Shutter Speed or Optimum Aperture for Sharp Image?

[ame01999]

Faster shutter speeds minimize camera shake, but. . .
The "best" apertures at which a lens performs are usually 2-3 stops below the maximum aperture.

Which aspect of sharpness should one prioritize?

Say I'm shooting with an 80mm lens with f3.5 max on my Rollei.

Shoot f4 at 1/500th of a second, assuming depth of field is adequate for the subject
Shoot f5.6 at 250th.

I'm guessing I should choose a faster shutter speed, even if that means shooting a wider aperture that might not be as sharp.

(I learned that the old "minimum required shutter speed for a given lens is equal the reciprocal of the focal length" advice should only be trusted for very small enlargements, right?)

I often end up shooting 1/125th of a second handheld with the Rollei, and in retrospect, I'm not sure that's enough to effectively avoid camera shake at medium-large enlargements. But I get iffy about shooting with a wide aperture just to achieve 1/250th of a second or faster. I can't effectively tell with my eye through the magnifier whether I'm losing focus on a somewhat critical area of the subject, or whether I've completely nailed the focus point.

 

[Dan Daniel]

How about doing some tests using a tripod? Shoot hand-held and with at tripod at a few different speeds and apertures. And see if shake is really an issue for you. A Rolleiflex has very little 'kick' when releasing the shutter and people often report very sharp results at speeds much slower than 1/125. If you do start seeing shake affect an image, work on better ways to hold and release the shutter.

'Sharpness' is a variable. A lens may be fairly consistently sharp in the center but edges might drop off severely at wider apertures.

Some shots have moving objects that you want to render still. Some shots, depth of field is the critical issue.

If absolute maximum sharpness is your goal, sharpest aperture and a tripod are required. Period. But for most practical shooting, lens resolution at various apertures is not a defining factor, while depth of field will have an obvious factor on final image in most cases?

 

[ic-racer]

With the Rollei, film flatness can easily be the limiting factor without the glass plate.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

I’ve been able to pull off one second hand-held with my Rollei 2.8E and bracing myself carefully. But then I have rock-solid hands; I’ve pulled off a 1/4 second hand-held, pointed straight up, with an RZ67 and 50mm lens.

That said, I generally think in terms of aperture first, because that pretty much guarantees you get the depth of field you need, and focusing error is less likely to be a problem. If you prioritize shutter speed to guarantee no motion blur, if you don‘t have your focus absolutely nailed, you’ll end up with your subject out of focus, perfectly frozen, and it will be more obvious that you made a mistake.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Choose either a fast shutter speed or a greater depth of field OR a combination of both. It all depends on the specific composition.

 

[grahamp]

With smaller cameras (roll film) I tend to bias towards faster speeds, say 1/250s unless other constraints like light and DOF are significant. I don't hand hold if I can avoid it.

With view cameras, aperture and movements dominate, and shutter only becomes significant with subject movement. But these are on tripods.

I have lost more pictures to camera movement than I have to a poor choice of aperture, but that is me. You have to know your own strengths and weaknesses, and cater to them accordingly.

 

[MattKing]

I've yet to encounter a lens that was lousy enough at maximum aperture to cause as much loss of perceived sharpness as the results one endures from too much camera movement.
Sometimes though, shallow depth of field means that not enough of your subject appears sufficiently "sharp" - group environmental portraits come to mind.

 

[Pieter12]

For me, it is always a compromise of sorts. Fast enough to eliminate camera shake, but stopped down enough to ensure focus. Especially with a medium format SLR, the camera can be heavy, the lenses long (and heavy) and the depth of field more limited as compared to 35mm. A good tripod is your friend, as are faster films.

 

[JPD]

With a handheld TLR I don't worry about camera shake unless I go slower than 1/25 sec., so I use the aperture I want or need that lets me use 1/25 or faster. In rare cases I would use a slower speed like 1/10 (1/15 or 1/8 with a later model) and then maybe take another shot to be on the safe side.

Shoot f4 at 1/500th of a second, assuming depth of field is adequate for the subject
Shoot f5.6 at 250th.

That sounds like using an ISO 100 film on a sunny day with a medium yellow filter on.

F:4 at 1/500 if it's something close up and I want a blurry background, or if something is moving with speed. Neither the Tessar or Planar type lenses perform at their best at this aperture. It's fine for portraits where you don't want razor sharpness anyway.

F:5,6 at 1/250 for maybe a group portrait of people in two rows, and some blur in the background. Good for children who can't sit still...

F:8-11 at 1/125 or 1/60 "Normal everyday photography". The lens perform the best at these apertures and the risk of camera shake is very little.

F:16-22 at 1/30 or 1/15 if you really need the depth of field.

Handheld/tripod, shutter speed/aperture, fast/slow film and grain size, filter or not, how big you want the enlargements to be, you will have to compromise.

 

[koraks]

Which aspect of sharpness should one prioritize?

As said above by others: it's a compromise. Where this compromise ends up, depends on a lot of factors, including highly personal ones (i.e. do you have a steady hand, or not so much).

In general, though: prioritize shutter speed over ideal aperture. Or, put differently, when optimal sharpness is concerned: only if you can manage a sufficient shutter speed, start worrying about aperture.

Of course, 'sharpness is a bourgeois concept', fuzzy pictures of sharp concepts vs. sharp pictures of fuzzy concepts, and all that. So maybe not worry too much about it to begin with.

 

[250swb]

For image quality prioritise using a tripod, if a tripod isn't available prioritise using a faster film because you gain more in shutter speed and aperture combinations than you lose with a bit extra grain grain. Forget using long shutter speeds hand held you may do it once or twice every now and again, but it isn't a plan that makes any sort of sense if you want your photography to be reliable. Equally don't compromise with the DOF you want, and that brings me back to my first point, use a tripod.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Faster shutter speeds minimize camera shake, but. . .
The "best" apertures at which a lens performs are usually 2-3 stops below the maximum aperture.

Which aspect of sharpness should one prioritize?

Say I'm shooting with an 80mm lens with f3.5 max on my Rollei.

Shoot f4 at 1/500th of a second, assuming depth of field is adequate for the subject
Shoot f5.6 at 250th.

I'm guessing I should choose a faster shutter speed, even if that means shooting a wider aperture that might not be as sharp.

(I learned that the old "minimum required shutter speed for a given lens is equal the reciprocal of the focal length" advice should only be trusted for very small enlargements, right?)

I often end up shooting 1/125th of a second handheld with the Rollei, and in retrospect, I'm not sure that's enough to effectively avoid camera shake at medium-large enlargements. But I get iffy about shooting with a wide aperture just to achieve 1/250th of a second or faster. I can't effectively tell with my eye through the magnifier whether I'm losing focus on a somewhat critical area of the subject, or whether I've completely nailed the focus point.

In the end it will be a compromise between the two, giving shutter speed the priority if no tripod can be used. Also, one must consider if one of the two is a design or composition controlling variable for the image in question.