fully agree but would expect PE to know that.If you are using a FB paper then you need a stop bath. It can be omitted for RC papers and film.
I’m planning on using water for my stop bath for RC paper, so how long should I run the stop bath? Also do I need to use distilled water? And does it need to be filtering? Or can I use tap water with a Kodak tray pump?Check all times and dilutions with test solutions for retained silver and retained hypo. Conditions vary widely around the world.
A stop bath is always recommended.
PE
Why use water?I’m planning on using water for my stop bath for RC paper, so how long should I run the stop bath? Also do I need to use distilled water? And does it need to be filtering? Or can I use tap water with a Kodak tray pump?
To avoid higher costs of mass printing crappy photos that I don’t really care about, and to save room on my darkroom cart that I am wheeling into my 6 foot square bathroom.Why use water?
Nothing is cheaper than stop bath (nothing that works)To avoid higher costs of mass printing crappy photos that I don’t really care about, and to save room on my darkroom cart that I am wheeling into my 6 foot square bathroom.
You’re probably right, I say crappy photos that I don’t care about because I feel like most of my photos don’t matter to anyone but me. I hope I can figure it out.Nothing is cheaper than stop bath (nothing that works)
Seriously, don't.
PS: You'll soon find that you won't "print crappy photos that you don't care about" because paper costs money, your time is worth something, film is worth something...you won't do that for long before you say to yourself "why did I even shoot this picture if I didn't intend to print it?" and then be more selective with your shooting.
Also I specifically hoped that by using tf-4 I could avoid using a stop bath for both printing and film. Not because I’m lazy, but because it makes me nauseous, and I have limited space to work.Yo
You’re probably right, I say crappy photos that I don’t care about because I feel like most of my photos don’t matter to anyone but me. I hope I can figure it out.
Ok...I get it.Yo
You’re probably right, I say crappy photos that I don’t care about because I feel like most of my photos don’t matter to anyone but me. I hope I can figure it out.
All stop baths or just certain ones?Also I specifically hoped that by using tf-4 I could avoid using a stop bath for both printing and film. Not because I’m lazy, but because it makes me nauseous, and I have limited space to work.
Tf-4 specifically says no stop bath necessary. That’s why I purchased it. If I were to not use a stop, and instead use a water stop bath, how would you suggest I do it? That’s my question.Check all times and dilutions with test solutions for retained silver and retained hypo. Conditions vary widely around the world.
A stop bath is always recommended.
PE
Ilford Ilfosol, vinegar, Kodak indicator stop, another one by... sprinter I think?All stop baths or just certain ones?
Does vinegar make you queasy?
PS: For film, I think you can get away with water...many folks do (including myself) I use water as a stop for black and white.
For film or paper?Tf-4 specifically says no stop bath necessary. That’s why I purchased it. If I were to not use a stop, and instead use a water stop bath, how would you suggest I do it? That’s my question.
Gotcha. Yeah actually for both hah. I full process (as I had planned it) was using tmax400, Rodinal Developer, water stop, tf-4 fix, them go to enlarger next day. Use Ilford multigrade IV RC Deluxe, Liquidol (Formulary) developer, water stop, tf-4 fix, hang to dry......For film or paper?
For film, just fill the tank and give 30 seconds of agitation and dump, do it twice. (or even 3 times) I don't think it's significant for film...you go into the fixer pretty quickly.
For paper, just drop the paper in the tray and agitate for 1 minute.
Others who are more knowledgable will chime in on this.
You are good to go, the question will be...when is your fix exhausted and how will you know?Gotcha. Yeah actually for both hah. I full process (as I had planned it) was using tmax400, Rodinal Developer, water stop, tf-4 fix, them go to enlarger next day. Use Ilford multigrade IV RC Deluxe, Liquidol (Formulary) developer, water stop, tf-4 fix, hang to dry......
Great idea. Probably worth it.You are good to go, the question will be...when is your fix exhausted and how will you know?
You don't want to fix a bunch of prints only to find your fixer was exhausted a day ago or something.
I use Hypo-check from B&H. You drop a drop in before you start to print, and then every once in a while during printing and once at the end. That way you know that all of your prints are fixed sufficiently. If at any point the Hypo-Check goes white when you drop it in...you know you have to refix the prints.
I bought a bottle January of 2016 and I'm still using it. It's cheaper than dumping fixer too early and better than finding out your prints won't last.
Glacial Acetic Acid is $34.00 per liter from Ebay
You cut that to 28% solution. 28ML of GAA + water to make 1 liter. That's your "handling solution"
You take that 28% solution and make your stop bath as follows:
42ml of GAA handling solution + water to make 1 liter.
It comes out to about 4 cents per liter to use.
I bought a liter in March of this year, I still have 1 liter of handling solution left which makes 42 more liters of stop bath. I print every day just about and use it for film and paper and it's still going...
That's about as economical as you get.
To avoid higher costs of mass printing crappy photos that I don’t really care about, and to save room on my darkroom cart that I am wheeling into my 6 foot square bathroom.
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