I'm a #2!
I proof all of my negatives and spend time with the proofs, choosing possibilities for making enlargements. "Proper proofs" on the same of similar paper to what I will be enlarging on helps to choose grade and plan manipulations.
A printing session consists of choosing a neg to print and working on it till I either reject it or make a "keeper." This takes several hours if not the whole session. In the process, I dry down the prints and evaluate them along with other versions under as close as I can come to gallery illumination. A dry print is very different than a wet one, and just figuring in a "drydown factor" doesn't cut it. Often, I'll keep a group for a day or two before I decide to make further changes, or which "version" I want to make prints from. Sometimes, I'll keep several slightly different versions: "different, but equally valid, performances of the same score." At the end of the printing session, I usually make five "identical" prints. I must mention that at this point, bleaching gets incorporated, but not toning. Also, I only give these prints a first fix, wash and dry.
The toning session happens after I've collected a bunch of prints to tone. I like at least 40 (8 batches of 5 or the equivalent). I tone slightly in selenium and therefore print a bit less contrasty than I want since I know that the selenium toning increases contrast just a smidge. In the meantime, I may have discarded or reprinted some of the prints from the "keepers" group. Toning work flow is: Soak, fix 2, toner (no rinse between fix and toner), wash aid, rinse, wash. Toning is done with rather dilute toner under display lighting and is completely subjective. Some subjects want more toning, some less. I pull the print when the toning is "right" for the image. Often I'll dry a print down to see if I've overtoned (if so, into the trash...). The second fix is "print strength" rapid fix. I used to use plain hypo fixer, but see no advantages to this now. The rapid fix I use (Ilford) is not so acid as to cause staining. This would likely be a good place for an alkaline fix, but I've yet to try one.
After prints are dry, I try to mount at least one of each. Before mounting, spotting, etc. is done.
Best
Doremus Scudder
www.DoremusScudder.com