Overhardening a print and then crumpling it will cause cracking and crazing of the surface giving it a distressed look.
I have not done this in years though, so added humectants or newer gelatin may prevent this from happening.
It is done with a formalin, aluminum sulfate hardener.
PE
What do you mean by distressed?
You could do a regular RA4 print but with bleach bypass and scratch it with your nails or a sharp object (or even sandpaper).
Wayne, take an undeveloped piece of film and bleach and fix it using the C41 tail end instructions including wash and stabilzer/final rinse. This will give you a piece of film with only the masking dyes.
PE
Wayne, take an undeveloped piece of film and bleach and fix it using the C41 tail end instructions including wash and stabilzer/final rinse. This will give you a piece of film with only the masking dyes.
PE
No it can´t but you can actually just BLIX a C41 film and skip development. It will result in a blank orange base. I know this because i recently insisted on trying 20y old AGFA C41 chemistry against my better knowledge. CD was trash, only the blix worked, so I got an undeveloped but blixed blank roll of orange base.Can fixed c-41 be stripped of its dyes leaving the orange mask?
No it can´t but you can actually just BLIX a C41 film and skip development. It will result in a blank orange base. I know this because i recently insisted on trying 20y old AGFA C41 chemistry against my better knowledge. CD was trash, only the blix worked, so I got an undeveloped but blixed blank roll of orange base.
oh, right. Sorry, i didn´t read further downwards before commenting.Yep, thats what PE mentioned too and that's what I did. Worked like a charm, even with very old blix.
oh, right. Sorry, i didn´t ´read further downwards before commenting.
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