print stuck to dryer

[dfoo]

I decided to try drying a FB print face down instead of face up. Big mistake! The damn thing stuck to the dryer and is now ruined. Even worse, I cannot get it off the dryer... it was a nice print too! any idea how to get it off? Why did it stick anyway?

 

[Andrew K]

what sort of dryer is it? If it is a heat dryer/glazer then my best guess is to soak the print thoroughly in water -just keep sponging water on to the back of the print - hopefully it will then release from the plate/drum..

Did you use wetting agent before putting the print onto the dryer?

Best guess as to why it stuck (either to a air dryer or a glazer) is that the surface was dirty, and the dirt caused the print to stick

Good luck

 

[Rick A]

Try removing the ferrotype plate and soaking it in water. Your print stuck most likely because the plates need polished between uses. Use the polish(or wax)sparingly and buff the whoopies out of it. There should be NO residue on the plates when using.

 

[ann]

i had a student do that very thing once, we just kept soaking the print with a wet sponge and tearing it off in pieces until it was entirely removed. Then polished the plate. took some time but is doable.

 

[Mats_A]

What should one use to polish with?

r

Mats

 

[dfoo]

My dryer is one of the arkay flipper print dryer. Evidently you are not supposed to dry prints face down! I'll have a go at removing the print later today.

 

[Rick A]

Brand doesn't matter. You definitly can dry prints face down for a glossy finish. The ferrotype plate needs polished for that application, or dont polish and have a print stick. BTW, prints stick face up as well eventually when you dont clean the plates. I use Renaissance Wax, put on a very light coating, wait a few minutes for it to dry, then buff with a clean soft cotton cloth until it shines. Do not leave any residue on the plates or it will show on the print.

 

[Jon Shiu]

I had one of those double sided ones and had a print stuck to it. I believe the instructions recommend using a hardening fixer. I didn't try that, but instead sold it as I didn't find it that useful. Prefer to dry on screens or hang on a line now.

Jon

 

[wclark5179]

I'd lay a wet towel over the print. Keep it moist. Not too wet as the water should not leak into the heating element.

Don't give up and throw in the towel! Smiles!

Hope this helps!

 

[Andrew K]

if you have the ferrotype plates (the glossy chrome ones) then you can dry prints face down - well this is how we used to glaze prints (put a gloss finish on fiber base papers) - first you need to soak the print in glazing solution (in our case film wetting agent-made a bit stronger than usual) for a couple of minutes, then place it face down on a glazing plate and squeegee the print gently working from the centre to the edge of the print (the plate can be warm or cold-you can also use hot plates, but the glazing is very fast)..

when drying prints you put them face up - what's happened is because you haven't used a glazing solution, and your glazing plate was a bit dirty it's stuck..

to clean a glazing plate I used to use soapy water first (dish wahing liquid) to clean the plate-then thoroughly rinse it in water (usually with a little wetting agent in it) - once dry buff the plate with a clean cloth (microfibre is great) to remove any drying marks left by the water - it's these that cause uneven glazing, and cause the prints to stick..

 

[photomem]

I have been lurking on this thread for a while and I am a bit confused. I have the Premier print dryer (same as a flipper for all intents and purposes). It says explicitly in the instructions not to dry a print face down. It is a glossy chrome plate with a canvas platen that comes down over it. My teacher absolutely loves high gloss on FB, should I polish up the plate and give this a try.. I mean I know its counter-indicated by the instructions, but a lot of things are I do in my darkroom.

 

[Neal]

Dear Tommy,

Use this product: Renaissance Wax

Use next to nothing and apply with a soft clean cloth. Buff it out with another soft clean cloth after application.

It takes practice and the technique you end up with may not match that of anyone else so be prepared. Squeegee or roller the print onto the dryer.

Good luck,

Neal Wydra

 

[dfoo]

I managed to get the print off last night. As recommended above I stuck a web towel on the print and get the print get well soaked. After a while the print peeled right off. Too bad I had already ruined it, it was pretty nice!

 

[Ronald Moravec]

The chrome surface needs to be clean and dry.

Secondly the prints need to be soaked in Pakosol before drying. You can not buy it any more, but it`s formula can be found on line, Emulsion of glyicerine and and water and a small amount of something else.

If you do it properly, it will look similar to gloss RC paper but without the plastic look.

It had a place years ago b/4 RC for reproduction prints in newspapers etc. Art prints are not good looking which is why the process is dead.