Preferred Brand of aerosol air for cleaning negatives and film holders?

[Todd Barlow]

Hi all:
Is there a preferred brand of aerosol air for dusting negatives and film holders?
Thanks
Todd

 

[AgX]

Read the respective MSDS.

Most likely by now they all contain the same refrigerent of the 4th generation.

 

[Todd Barlow]

Do you have a preferred brand that you use?

 

[AgX]

I don't use such at all. Never had a can in house. If I would I would buy what is available locally. Here in Europe that likely are the aerosols of Kontaktchemie. At your side likely known as CRC.

 

[Pieter12]

I use a 20 lb tank of CO2 with a compressed air nozzle attached. No propellent, no moisture.

 

[BAC1967]

I don't use air on negatives, as I understand it can create static electricity that attracts dust. I use the Ilford Antistatic Cloth, I gently pull the negative between it just before scanning or printing.

https://www.ilfordphoto.com/antistatic-cloth?___store=ilford_brochure&___from_store=ilford_brochure

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/24592-REG/Ilford_1203547_Antistaticum_Anti_Static_Cloth.html

 

[MattKing]

The stuff Costco sells in a 6 can pack - expensive, but all of our keyboards and a few other things seem to benefit as well.
The product is "Dust-Off Professional Electronics compressed-gas Duster".

 

[jimjm]

I've used canned air before, but never again on anything delicate like film. It's not easy to control the pressure and it'll leave residue on the film if it's too close.
I just use a Giottos Rocket Blaster for film, along with an anti-static brush for the film holders and the enlarger negative carriers.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Ditto on the bulb-blower. I don't like the "canned air" products for a number of reasons: too much pressure, hard to control and the risk of spraying a layer of propellant onto your negative. The hand-blower does the job just fine and has to be more environmentally friendly. When static builds up, I have an old Zerostat that I use to neutralize the static, then I use the blower again. Stubborn dust particles get a light swipe with a soft-bristle brush or a microfiber cloth. That's all I've ever needed.

Best,

Doremus

 

[Luckless]

So far I've been using a bulb-blower and brush, but I have considered getting a hand pumped compressed air tank.

I had a kid's air-brush kit growing up, and found the simple tank and nozzle setup was great for generating a good jet of air when cleaning parts and stuff after the inks all ran dry and I couldn't find replacements for them. As an air-brush it was rather unimpressive, but was great for working on computers and stuff. Took up about as much space as a half dozen cans of air, but lasted far longer and didn't have a noisy pump to listen to or really do much with.

I use a 20 lb tank of CO2 with a compressed air nozzle attached. No propellent, no moisture.

For anyone looking to do the same, be sure to double check the tank style and nozzle setup.

Using a CO2 tank fitted with a bottom-draw line and no expansion chamber before the nozzle is a very different experience compared to a top-draw tank with two stage expansion chamber... Pouring liquid CO2 over your hand when you're expecting a jet of cool air is not a great way to start your day.

Worse still, it probably isn't good for the negatives!

 

[BAC1967]

When static builds up, I have an old Zerostat that I use to neutralize the static, then I use the blower again.

I have a few of those that I use on my records, I keep forgetting to try it on my film.

 

[Kino]

If you use compressed air and have severe static issues, Kinetronics makes a compressed air can Ionizer that you snap on any air can. It runs on a single AA battery and has a 10 foot grounding wire. Shoots negative ions into the air stream with a pull of the trigger.

However, it is kind of expensive...

 

[Brendan Quirk]

I use an air tank which I fill with a small shop compressor. Although I don't use an inline filter, I get good results, but must refill a couple of times per printing session. Be aware that the lack of a filter could allow moisture from condensation to contaminate the air stream. This set up has eliminated the high cost of canned air, the risk of propellant on the negative, and is more controllable at the nozzle.

 

[AgX]

Using a CO2 tank fitted with a bottom-draw line and no expansion chamber before the nozzle is a very different experience compared to a top-draw tank with two stage expansion chamber... Pouring liquid CO2 over your hand when you're expecting a jet of cool air is not a great way to start your day.

Worse still, it probably isn't good for the negatives!

Similar applies to "aerosol-air".

 

[AgX]

Read the respective MSDS.

Most likely by now they all contain the same refrigerent of the 4th generation.

Less Ozone-destructive but instead flamable and with even more toxic product.

But there still are versions that contain Propane/Isobutane !

 

[Eric Rose]

I use one of my old scuba tanks. The refills are medical grade air. No worries about micro blobs of oil getting on my negs. And when that is empty, between fills I use Armani air

 

[AgX]

Just using any old tank would not work in Europe, where high-pressured gas tanks must be technical controlled after some period before refilling. For technical gases that is in Germany 10 years, for scuba tanks even only 2.5 years.

 

[Eric Rose]

Just using any old tank would not work in Europe, where high-pressured gas tanks must be technical controlled after some period before refilling. For technical gases that is in Germany 10 years, for scuba tanks even only 2.5 years.

We have the same regulations here too. Surprise eh.

 

[Todd Barlow]

Thanks for all the great responses!

 

[Patrick Robert James]

Skip the canned air. I prefer an anti static brush. Works great. I do have a 'rocket blower' type squeeze bulb but don't use it that often. I do use canned air when I am cleaning the enlarger and cleaning other things. I just don't use it on negs.

 

[chriscrawfordphoto]

One problem with canned air is that the stuff sold in stores has a chemical added to it to make it taste bad. The purpose is to discourage idiots from inhaling the stuff to get high. This is probably effective, but the 'bitterant' used leaves a residue when you spray lenses or film or scanner glass.

Fortunately, you CAN get canned air that doesn't have this stuff in it. You have to buy it from industrial supply companies. I get it from a company called Kimco. Unlike many other industrial suppliers, Kimco is willing to sell a few cans at a time, rather than making you buy a large, expensive quantity. Here's the stuff I buy:

https://gokimco.com/techspray-1671-10s-non-flammable-hfc134a-based-duster-10-oz.html

It is a little more expensive than the stuff sold in stores, but it works so much better that it is worth it.

 

[AgX]

One problem with canned air is that the stuff sold in stores has a chemical added to it to make it taste bad.

Good point, though not of general truth. At least there are aerosols sold over the counter that employ gases that give no reasons to sniff.

Fortunately, you CAN get canned air that doesn't have this stuff in it. You have to buy it from industrial supply companies. I get it from a company called Kimco.

It employs a refrigerant of older generation. It is not Ozone-destructive, not flamable, but has a massive glass-house effect. As such it is at least partially banned in the EU.

 

[AgX]

I am surprised how many aspects this thread brought up.


To sum up possible issues to be considered when using "canned air"

-) flamability
-) toxicity
-) cooling if liquid ist blown out (freezing of skin, water condensation on emulsion, solvent effect on emulsion)
-) condensation of less volatile ingredients

 

[Neal]

I like the cans from Costco. You use next to nothing as all you need is a quick clearing spritz and then a quick spray to each side of the negative. I still have 3 untouched cans from a six pack purchase about 2 years ago. I keep the three opened cans where I need them. By my scanner, by my enlarger and in my travel bag for when I use a local community darkroom. Remember, don't move the can, move the target. Otherwise you will surely end up with some refrigerant on your negatives.

Good luck,

Neal Wydra

 

[tezzasmall]

I too use a 'Rocket' air bulb blower on all my negs before enlarging and occasionally I also use a small anti-static brush.

I've heard of too many worrying stories about using aerosols on film over the years to use one, although I am sure the quality and safety of using one now is probably a lot safer than it used to be = unless anyone can state otherwise???

Terry S