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Just got a like new Sl2, even the meter works, however the film wind lever and shutter button seems to be frozen. I've AI converted pre Ai lense so I'm ready to go "in camera" for the 1st time. Any suggestions.
 

elekm

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I just had a Pentax K1000 with a similar problem. I corrected it in about five minutes by removing the bottom plate and moving a lever into position so that the shutter button would release the shutter.

If you like, I can send you a photo of the Pentax K1000, and see if the Praktica is similar.
 
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I just had a Pentax K1000 with a similar problem. I corrected it in about five minutes by removing the bottom plate and moving a lever into position so that the shutter button would release the shutter.

If you like, I can send you a photo of the Pentax K1000, and see if the Praktica is similar.

Yes, Please!
 
OP
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I just had a Pentax K1000 with a similar problem. I corrected it in about five minutes by removing the bottom plate and moving a lever into position so that the shutter button would release the shutter.

If you like, I can send you a photo of the Pentax K1000, and see if the Praktica is similar.

I'd really like to rescue this camera. I use all my cameras and they look it, but this thing looks like it's never been touched, not a scratch or blemish on it or the Pentacon 50mm 1.8 lens on it
 

Rol_Lei Nut

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Was about to suggest removing the bottom plate, but Mike beat me to it... ;-)

Unblocked several cameras that way.
 

elekm

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Here's what a Pentax K1000 looks like. See if your camera is similar. By pushing down the lever that I marked, I was able to release the shutter. I left the lens on the camera, so that you could tell which side was up and which side was down.

pentax_k1000.jpg
 

Rol_Lei Nut

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An addition to Mike's photographs:
As I said, I unblocked several cameras through he bottom plate and in most cases they looked very different from the K1000 illustrated....

Once the bottom plate is off, try to press the shutter release and see what moves on the camera bottom.
Typically, the shutter release pushes something down , which releases something else (which allows the shutter to fire). It is this "something else" which is sometimes jammed or out of place.

Might take a little careful probing and detective work, but if you are gentle and note where everything is (take a picture if possible) , you shouldn't do any damage.
 

Anscojohn

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Just got a like new Sl2, even the meter works, however the film wind lever and shutter button seems to be frozen. I've AI converted pre Ai lense so I'm ready to go "in camera" for the 1st time. Any suggestions.
******
I have freed up several Prakticas by thumping them hard on the baseplate with the butt of my hand. Thumping while pushing the shutter release, not push it, incantations and curses.
 

cscurrier

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Here's what a Pentax K1000 looks like. See if your camera is similar. By pushing down the lever that I marked, I was able to release the shutter. I left the lens on the camera, so that you could tell which side was up and which side was down.

pentax_k1000.jpg

Just fixed a friends K1000 with the help of this photo, thanks elekm!
 

Xmas

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you should note the mirror and shutter state.
there are several interlocks
the shutter button releases the mirror
when the mirror run finishes it releases the first blade
eventually the second blade runs and when it finishes it releases the mirror return mechanism
SLR are all interlocks
undo baseplate and remove over tray invert camera over tray
if you are unlucky a screw and bits will fallout you need to retain a complete set.
you need to try and reverse engineer the state machine sequence
normally the SLRs jam on dust corrission or marginal spring tension and a darning needle point touch is all you need
but if e.g. the mirror is stuck up on foam you need to gently release it
you should be ok if it is not a shutter jam
hate metal shutters invention of devil
Barnack was an arch angel
 

E. von Hoegh

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you should note the mirror and shutter state.
there are several interlocks
the shutter button releases the mirror
when the mirror run finishes it releases the first blade
eventually the second blade runs and when it finishes it releases the mirror return mechanism
SLR are all interlocks
undo baseplate and remove over tray invert camera over tray
if you are unlucky a screw and bits will fallout you need to retain a complete set.
you need to try and reverse engineer the state machine sequence
normally the SLRs jam on dust corrission or marginal spring tension and a darning needle point touch is all you need
but if e.g. the mirror is stuck up on foam you need to gently release it
you should be ok if it is not a shutter jam
hate metal shutters invention of devil
Barnack was an arch angel

I once saw a pristine, perfect, virginal Leica screwmount; it was this way due to several holes burned through the rubberised silk shutter curtains. Appropriately since they are the work of Lucifer, metal shutters are immune to this - just one of their many virtues, wherever they may have acquired them. Remember, Lucifer was a fallen angel.
 

Xmas

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I once saw a pristine, perfect, virginal Leica screwmount; it was this way due to several holes burned through the rubberised silk shutter curtains. Appropriately since they are the work of Lucifer, metal shutters are immune to this - just one of their many virtues, wherever they may have acquired them. Remember, Lucifer was a fallen angel.

True but the hole can be patched easily or the fabric replaced relatively easily and you need to be careless to get sunburn hole.
the vertical travel copal style shutter is very difficult to repair after a film shard or fat finger and is normally replace whole module
Any repair person will replace a Leica blind or ribbon the metal M8 or M9 needs to go back to factory for module replacement
If it is a practica and you get a film shard jam then you need a replacement body a Zorki CanonP Leica LTM or Nikon F take apart and refurbish your self
Note always wind on a Exa SLR the mirror protects the fabric from sunburn an instant return SLR is normally safe. The rubber hardens in uv light and cracks.
 
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