Prague, Bratislava, Budapest

Hi All,

My wife and I are leaving for Prague the week after next. We will be travelling through the Czech republic, Slovakia and Hungary for a book project we've been working on for some time. I will be photographing dogs for the most part but will be taking my Leica along for those times that we are not out in the field trying to capture images of running, jumping, swimming canines.

We will of course do some a few tourist things. Being book worms, the Strahov Monastery Library is at the top of our list. We have local contacts in the places we will be visiting and I am sure they will be great guides to some of the more off the beaten track areas. However, I thought I would ask fellow Apugers who know the area if they could suggest places/sites to see, things to do, eat/drink and any do's and don't's of traveling in the area. This will be our first time to Eastern Europe and we are very much looking forward to a great time!

Cheers!

Czech trip

Hi Craig

My wife and I toured through the Czech Republic by car last year. While we both enjoyed being in Prague during the Easter festivities our most enjoyable stay was in a really beautiful small historic town called Czesky Krumlov, about 100 miles south of Prague. Its a wonderfully compact settlement set in a tight loop of the Vltava river that is achingly photogenic. There are medieval bridges, and hundreds of C16th and C17th houses, a fair number of which are now available as simple accmmodation, and a truly spectacular castle/chateau perched on a high ridge which seems to hang right over the town like something out a Kafka novel. I cannot recommnend anywhere as highly for an inpsiring couple of days with camera in hand.

Be warned though, although evryone is very friendly and the locals are slowly realising what a fantastic tourist potential the place has, very few people seemed to speak English, and Czech was, for me, very difficult to pick up even with a decent phrase book. In addition, although the well wooded Sumava National Park is near by large sections of it are suffering the polluted consequences of the country's recent Soviet past and the area is still full of Soviet stlyle worker's housing, including adjacent parts of the town itself.

Nevertheless very highly recommended for any one with a slightly adventurous train of mind whom wants to see a truly unique mittel Europe medieaval town.

Graham

I thought I would bump this post and ask Craig for some feedback as well as anyone else with experience of Prague in particular. I am heading there with my wife later in the year (Sept/Oct) for a week and would appreciate any tips about the city and surrounds for the photgraphically inclined.

Thanks, Tony

Prague is great. I don't have any specifically photographic tips -- although there are some interesting camera shops in the city if you are looking to buy stuff -- but one thing I would recommend is looking slightly away from Old Town Square for places to eat and drink. The difference in price from the square itself to pubs and restaurants 50 metres away can be striking, sometimes. Czech beer is really excellent, and not expensive, and czech food can also be very good if you like quite heavy, filling food. Vegetarian food, not so widely available.

Things to see and do: the standard stuff -- the Castle (Hrad), the Old Town (Staromestke), the Mala Strana (across the river from the Old Town), etc. I'd particularly recommend checking out the synagogues in the Jewish Quarter.

Also, don't miss the 'other' castle in Prague, at Vysehrad which houses the national cemetery which has some striking graves often with very compelling sculpture. The city contains a lot of great architecture if that's your thing.

The city's underground network is great. Some of the stations are very photogenic, they have a 70s retrofuturistic look to them.

Outside of Prague :
http://www.hradkarlstejn.cz/en/
Karlstein castle is striking, alothough the country is loaded with impressive gothic buildings of that type.

I found a visit to Terezin, the site of the former concentration camp and Austro-hungarian prison and military base, to be an amazing trip, although depressing.

Czech is a hard language to learn: my wife is from near Prague, I've spent many many months in the Czech Republic and I still haven't picked up a huge amount of the language. However, it's well worth getting a phrase book and learning the absolute basics. Hello, goodbye, thank you, how much is that?, how are you?, etc.

As has already been mentioned, outside of central Prague people really don't speak much English. Even in the city itself, once you venture away from the tourist areas people really won't be able to understand you.

I just got back from Budapest. It is an amazing city to photograph. If you have local contacts, they'll point you to all the right places.
But it really doesn't matter. Any good guidebook can help.
I spent a week there, mainly for the photography and I didn't even scratch the surface.
Have a great trip.
Tom

Indeed Prague is great.

Interesting photo store: FotoSkoda, Vodickova 37 Praha 1. Just a street away from the new centre.

Mentioned already:
The Castle (Hrad) with nice stairs when you go up, the Old Town (Staromestke), the Mala Strana (across the river from the Old Town, you can go over the Karlsbridge). In the Jewish quarter do not forget the cemetary, real old. (see picture).
Prague has also a nice zoo. Can be reached by bus.
Easy underground connections, best is to have a week card or a 24H card which is also valid for Prague (near) surroundings.

Czech beer (=Pivo) is very good (e.g. Plzen) and indeed the prices vary outside Prague KCz. 15 (Eur. 0,53) till KCz. 90 (Eur. 3,20) for the same beer in Prague on Old Town Square. More or less the same for the restaurants. Czech food can be really good if you like meat and it's filling food. A tip for you in the Jewish Quarter:
"U Vltavy" (traditional Czech cuisine) Brehova 5, Praha 1.

Language: Indeed very difficult but in Prague 80% chance to have luck with some English, ortherwise German (but less popular).
Some examples in my gallery are made in Prague:
Dead Link Removed


Jewish cemetary.

Astronomical clock (Old Time Square)

Well enjoy your trip to Prague!

Best regards,

Robert

There's enough for at least two days in Prague and that doesn't include time for sitting down and relaxing except for meals or a trip on the river. The Jewish quarter is worth an afternoon by itself. Some very sad memories there. Be warned.

If unusual things attract you, then buy a watch with Hebrew characters. Like the main clock on a tower it runs backwards!

I never found beers quite as cheap as Robert but neither did I find any as expensive. Generally food and especially drink( March 2006) were very cheap by U.K. standards.

If you are reasonably fit then walk everywhere in Prague. It's all within walking distance.

We found that all the "attractions" had good English speakers except the Postal Museum where the very old attendant spoke German. Probably a reflection of the time of people's formative years. The young have English as their second language, the middle aged will speak Russian but don't want to and the very old will have German as their second language.

Film in terms of Kodak and Fuji seemed to be readily available but was one of the few items where the price wasn't much cheaper than the U.K.

pentaxuser

Well, I think that there were already said most important things.
I am from CZ, I live in Brno. My wife is Hungarian and came from Bratislava (Slovakia). Hope I know a bit about all three countries. From my point of view, the Prague (even I have to honestly say I don't like this city) is most beautiful, and in its old parts very photogenic for people interested in architecture or cityscape. There is also many old bridges over Vltava river. That's very similar as in Vienna and Budapest. I really liked the view of old bridges over Danube in Budapest. To Prague - for inspiration, you can find photos by Josef Sudek, famous man with view camera (but there much more very good works from Prague). I think that many of well known places in Prague were mentioned. Also Skoda foto, as a shop with BW materials and mainly second hand cameras is nice place to visit, if there is time.
The Budapest is not so nice (from my point of view), but I spent there only something more than week. We lived in hungarian family and were making trips in old part of city. The bridges there are beautiful, as I already wrote.
The Bratislava is something what stressess me. I was there many times, but I didn't found there atmosphere. Also there is old centre of city, but is very "tourist-ized", there are not more old typical slovak pubs, but french and irish and .... and ... types of restaurants and laser attractions for tourists. But all above are just my feelings. I also cannot reccomend Brno for short trip, there is not so many interesting places. There is a lot of old castles in CZ, most known is Karlstejn, Kost, Orlik. There are also some very nice national parks, but this is not for short trip too.

And now to practical things.
Try to speak english with younger people, they always do speak. Older generation has very low knowledge of english.
The restorants, hotels, goods and all services in tourist areas are couple times higher than outside.
Be careful when getting taxi. Prague taxi drivers are ones of the worst in the world. Believe me, ask for bill with prices list and company name.
Beer - the best in the world, Pilsner Urquell, Budvar, Radegast, Gambrinus...
Food - typical czech meals = heavy, lot of meat, roasted, fried ...
Be carefoul of your baggage, there is, as in all bigger cities a lot of thiefs, some of them from Ukraine and Russia too. My wife was going from Brno to Halle in Germany by train and they stole her 25kg baggage from train.
I think, that Czech people are not so communicative, so don't be surprised. One man from UK told me, we seemed to him as a swedish or so ...

If any particular questions, feel free to ask via pm.

Regards,
r.

I also live in Brno, have visited Prague several times. For me it's too touristic too, and I don't like the people there (you know, almost everyone from Brno doesn't like Prague - ages old rivalry of cities stuck deep in the bones of the people - Brno is the second largest...). But truly, it's a very photogenic and very beautiful city. You can spend days there. There are beautiful places to photograph (architecture, streetlife) - just stroll the streets and alleys in the old city (the important highlights were already named).

Use public transportation, it goes very often, is cheap (relatively), even goes during night, usually keeps the timetable. Don't use a taxi in Prague unless absolutely necessary. There is 99.9% chance you'll be ripped off by the driver (he'll ask for 2 to 10 times the real fare). If you really must use a cab, pay close attention to the meter being turned on, ask for the receipt. (If you do this, he'll probably not take the shortest way anyway).

There are a lot of other cities worth visiting - Cesky Krumlov, Kutna Hora, Tabor (beautiful city center, almost as good as Cesky Krumlov).

As to the prices of beer/food. The smaller the city you're in, the less you'll pay. It is possible to find a pub with beer for 20-25CZK in Prague, but it's not easy even for a Czech, (in Prague a beer for less than 30 is not expensive even for me, while here in Brno, it's from around 15-20, 25 in a good pub). The same pertains to meal...

I forgot - if you're shooting sheet film, it might be difficult to buy it here (not impossible, just difficult) - very few photography stores do have it on stock, especially color (FotoSkoda in Prague is probably the most probable source).

The highest chance [for LF] is for Fomapan 100 in metric sizes (9x12cm, larger are usually not on stock too)...

Regarding photo material. Czech Republic is place where Foma is located, and there is also my Ilford material supplier, Fomei (www.fomei.com). Fomei was recommended to me by Ilford about 6 years ago, and since then they are my Ilford material supplier. Fomei have their facilities in Prague and in Hradec Kralove (Fomei headquarter). So, try there for Ilford and Foma films, papers, chemistry if you need it. Fomei currently have some LF films, but check for your particular size. They have pretty good stock of Ilford material, and what they don't have they can provide, but I don't know how much time they will need for getting it.

Saying that, since I import Ilford material from Czech to Bosnia, I don't know if Fomei have shop or they are only big supplier to shops, so call them or ask them by Email if you need. You can use English language for conversation, I do my conversatiom with them on English, written (Email) or spoken (telephone)

It's as easy (or difficult, depends on pow) as anywhere in Europe to get LF sheet film, if you have the luxury of time - either you have to use on-line shops, or place an order and wait for the films to arrive in your shop. But if you're on the go...

Well, if there is someone on trip with view camera, it is not so much more to take a couple sheet films from home and not to spent trip time with searching ....
Fomei is mainly supplier for small shops. There was also logistics center of Kodak for middle Europe in CZ, but was last month closed. Terrible situation, because now I can't find Tri-X and Plus-X in Brno. So Kodak material wouldn't be easy now, hopefully just for while. People from shops said, "they are waiting for new channels ..."

In case you want to look around in the old centre:

http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&ll=50.088649,14.416873&spn=0.008921,0.014827&t=h&z=16&om=1

Or the new centre with a lot of shops:
http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&t=h&om=1&ll=50.083279,14.425864&spn=0.008922,0.014827&z=16

Or the Mala Strana:
http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF8&t=h&om=1&ll=50.088883,14.405951&spn=0.008921,0.014827&z=16


Then you can also get used of some names

Best regards,

Robert

Thanks everyone - some very good information, tips and links here.
I have heard there are some good jazz clubs in Prague? Anyone had any experience with the live music scene?

Regards, Tony

Ahh, jazz... People from Czech Republic know this much better, but I remember that in times of communism when Czech Republic and Slovakia were one country, they had secret clubs where jazz was played. Jazz was forbidden once there because it was music from imperialistic country... We here, in former Yougoslavia, thought they were good jazz players, but I don't know how much of that thinking was because they really were good, or because we had lots of sympathy for those great people in difficult situation at that time. But, if for nothing, Czech Republic is/was famous because of lots of theatres and good theatre groups, excellent glass (famous as Venezian glass), great beer, and lots of other goodies (well in particular beautifull women who used to come into former Yougoslavia to spend their summer on Adriatic cost - now Croatia, and were more friendly than "our" girls... ah days of youth ). We here in former Yougoslavia allways had good memories and sentiments for Czech people. It is shame that Russian mafia have this much influence now in Czech Republic...

Czech Republic is one of countries I would really love to know better, if only Bosnians can get visas without all hassle we have to get through now...

Jazz, jazz, ... Incidentally, my brother-in-law does play jazz in pubs and clubs occasionally, but here in Brno (have a look in this gallery on my website). He knows the jazz community here in Brno rather well.

I don't know about jazz clubs in Prague, but I may ask him and if he knows something useful, I'll post it here later...

(well in particular beautifull women who used to come into former Yougoslavia to spend their summer on Adriatic cost - now Croatia, and were more friendly than "our" girls... ah days of youth ).

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Yes 1987, Adriatic coast, Croatia. At that time I thought she was from Yougoslavia, but indeed Jana was from Czechoslovakia. Beautifull, yes she was. I have to dig out some photos from that time. Most remarkable was the growing amount of Dinars at that time every 3 days changing for the same amount of Dutch guilders. (Inflation ??).

..... ah we're getting old :rolleyes:

I've seen some really very good jazz downstairs at U Maleho Glena (http://www.malyglen.cz), and I hear Jazz klub Železná can be good.

There's a list of jazz places: http://prague.tv/prague/nightlife/jazz-clubs

Fotohuis said:

Yes 1987, Adriatic coast, Croatia. At that time I thought she was from Yougoslavia, but indeed Jana was from Czechoslovakia. Beautifull, yes she was. I have to dig out some photos from that time. Most remarkable was the growing amount of Dinars at that time every 3 days changing for the same amount of Dutch guilders. (Inflation ??).

..... ah we're getting old :rolleyes:

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Yes, inflation. So, for example, you buy car which cost about 20.000 EUROS, but not for money, you pay with bank checks with delayed payment (way how country wqs buying social peace you know, either that or new revolution ). In moment when time for actuall paying come, inflation and develvation of dinar (that time currency in former SFRJ) eat value, so you actually pay maybe 20 percent. That was great time for buying cars and other stuf...

Some pictures of my (recent) last visit (Fuji 35mm NPC 160):



The Thyn Church



A guiding tour in an old classical Skoda



On the Moldau, sight on the Carlsbridge



That was our transport during the day in Prague

I have visited all these three cities, and always had a great time (too many tourists in Prague though!). My best memories in this part of the world though are visiting the smaller towns and countryside, something I would like to do more. Sopron (in Hungary near Brataslava) is one place I have been to a few times.

Justin Cormack said:

I have visited all these three cities, and always had a great time (too many tourists in Prague though!). My best memories in this part of the world though are visiting the smaller towns and countryside, something I would like to do more. Sopron (in Hungary near Brataslava) is one place I have been to a few times.

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Woohoo, lucky I found this thread, all interesting stuff.

I'm off to Budapest for a long weekend in a couple of weeks, but I'm also planning a rail trip across Europe to be taking place next Spring... I'll be asking for tips a bit closer to the time, but at the moment London->Brussels->Cologne->Stuttgart->Nurenburg->Prague->Krakow->Warsaw->Kiev->Moscow->St Petersburg->Tallinn is looking a likely route . (Although am considering Minsk and a detour up to Vilnius & Riga instead of Kiev... But I know a model I once shot with from Kiev, so I'm currently swaying in that direction .) I'll be buying film locally and posting (some) of it back as I go along, to provide some kind of insurance...

I'm learning Russian, and the friend I'm going with speaks fluent German; I figure that means between us we'll be able to speak at least one language that will make us unpopular in every country

I figure that means between us we'll be able to speak at least one language that will make us unpopular in every country

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Indeed, very unpopulair.....

I can only advise you to take an extra car insurance for Belarus and Russia (Blue card).

In case of troubles rest the Kalashnikov....

CraigK said:

Hi All,

My wife and I are leaving for Prague the week after next. We will be travelling through the Czech republic, Slovakia and Hungary for a book project we've been working on for some time. I will be photographing dogs for the most part but will be taking my Leica along for those times that we are not out in the field trying to capture images of running, jumping, swimming canines.

We will of course do some a few tourist things. Being book worms, the Strahov Monastery Library is at the top of our list. We have local contacts in the places we will be visiting and I am sure they will be great guides to some of the more off the beaten track areas. However, I thought I would ask fellow Apugers who know the area if they could suggest places/sites to see, things to do, eat/drink and any do's and don't's of traveling in the area. This will be our first time to Eastern Europe and we are very much looking forward to a great time!

Cheers!

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Craig. The thread is still running. It has a life of it's own now as is often the case. So, how did the trip go?

pentaxuser