Power Packs & Heads versus Monolights ?

Mal Paso · May 24, 2024

A Sekonic 308X-U meter gets me close and a histogram from a digital camera even closer.

At current used prices spares are affordable. I just formed the capacitors on my stable.

Flashcam · May 24, 2024

How did you "form" them? I would love to know the method. Thanks. Something like 1st day one minute, then double the charge time each day after 24 hours, for a week? That seems to work for battery packs, but I'm not sure for power packs it's the same.

Mal Paso · May 24, 2024

Connect one head (if it's a pack) and turn it on for at least 30 minutes. You may test flash toward the end of forming Capacitors break down over time and forming them restores them. Here's what Holly Flash says: http://hollyflash.com/flash-faqs/

RalphLambrecht · May 27, 2024

harlequin said:
Hello,

Used to be I would be in a studio full of Balcar, Norman or Speedotron packs at great expense lots of power on tap but not as user friendly as most monolights.

Packs needed servicing every other year
Flashtube s cost almost as much as the head itself and a 90v trigger circuit took out a lot of newer cameras. On the other hand you could dial up more f stops on demand as needed.

Which do you prefer and why?

I know the latest profoto and broncolor Siros look fantastic but at a high price point.

I have also used dynalite packs and heads as well as old Ascors whic all worked well at the time.

Harlequin

Since I bought Walimex Monolights a few years ago, I would never go back to packs. I love them; always ready and always full power!

Mal Paso · May 27, 2024

I reserve the right to shoot at f64 if I want. lol

RalphLambrecht · May 28, 2024

MarkS said:
Monolights don't do well with overhead use (like on a boom) or anytime the light has to go where you can't reach the controls. They also want sturdier light stands to carry the weight.
That said, the recent Profotos with the remote are very nice.
I've ben using the same Dyna-Lite packs and heads for 30 years. If I was to buy new... I'd have to rethink everything.

Walimex solved that with the optional remote control.

Mal Paso · May 28, 2024

RalphLambrecht said:
Walimex solved that with the optional remote control.

The Weight Problem? I've never heard of Walimex but it could be something I know rebranded. I'm running a blend of Westcott and Norman. The Westcott FJ 400 weighs twice what a Norman LH 2400 weighs so the Normans are on booms. Everything fires from one of my Westcott Controllers.

Profoto is insanely expensive. Like $250,000 to replace my kit. That's almost a downpayment on a house these days.

wiltw · May 31, 2024

Mal Paso said:
Profoto is insanely expensive. Like $250,000 to replace my kit. That's almost a downpayment on a house these days.

That is a WHOLE HOUSE in many parts of the country!

A benefit of a pack over a monolight is that often one finds there is TOO MUCH power, and the power switching itself does not reduce output sufficiently...being able to further drop power by plugging in another head(s) can be beneficial.

Mal Paso · May 31, 2024

wiltw said:
That is a WHOLE HOUSE in many parts of the country!

A benefit of a pack over a monolight is that often one finds there is TOO MUCH power, and the power switching itself does not reduce output sufficiently...being able to further drop power by plugging in another head(s) can be beneficial.

I've brought my Norman 24/24 (2,400 WS) down to 25 WS by adding a second head when I just wanted a hint of light. I've got 14 regular heads now including one 4KWS. Picked up the last two 2,400s with an optical spot I wanted. To that idiot who derided Norman in forums years ago, Thank You So Much!

If I read my Westcotts right the 400 WS goes down to 40 WS and the 200 WS down to 20 WS so monolights are more flexible than they were but still heavier on a boom.

eli griggs · Jun 2, 2024

Pieter12 said:
Actually, I do not have the Lithium pack. If I could find one, it would be quite expensive. And lighter. The lead/acid battery works well, I don't try to get more than 100 shots out of it before recharging, but the manual says it should go longer--between 250 to over 5000 depending on the charge mode and power used. I also only use full power when shooting outdoors as a main light, so it doesn't always run full power. Plus, the lead/acid battery is a common size and readily available at 1/2 or 1/4 the price.

You might just contact "Batteries Plus" and see if they can build you a lithium battery pack.

Eli

Power Packs & Heads versus Monolights ?

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