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Having had a similar problem with an Omega B power supply I would clean the contacts in the power switch before taking more drastic action. Fixed mine with a spritz of tuner cleaner while toggling the switch. Brass contacts can develop a green waxy crud over time. The tuner cleaner or similar solvent may fix the problem.
I had a similar problem with an Omega power supply, the connection at the power switch had melted. Replacing a melted wire and connector along with a new switch took care of it. Sweet looking enlarger BTW!
If there is no voltage at the power supply this is a failure of that supply, not of your darkroom set up.
In case the LPL supply is not a regulated one, you would be even better off with a 230V supply.
Whether that needs to be regulated is a matter of the stability of your mains. Whether it will be sufficient for the substitute supply to yield 12V AC or whether you actually need 12V DC depends on the circuit of your enlarger.
There should be a "Rating Plate" on your Rollei RDE Power Supply. What does it say? What symbols are close to the figures? That should tell you the input voltage range, whether the output is AC or DC, and what the voltage is. Is there a fuse? Has it blown? Good luck, it looks smart.
I have seen this enlarger branded Rollei, Nikor and LPL. Just FYI incase it helps for parts searches.
What is the knob on the front of the power supply? Where does the timer connect? Where, and under what conditions did you measure the output in AC to determine it was zero? Is there a fuse? Does the manual give any troubleshooting hints?
Having had a similar problem with an Omega B power supply I would clean the contacts in the power switch before taking more drastic action. Fixed mine with a spritz of tuner cleaner while toggling the switch. Brass contacts can develop a green waxy crud over time. The tuner cleaner or similar solvent may fix the problem.
Brass contacts can develop a green waxy crud over time.
Did you get this working?
Did you get this working?
If you used a non-contact tester, then any open circuit on the output would say that there is no current flowing--even if the power supply is working correctly, and the cable is working correctly; for example, if the bulb were missing or burned out. So your new bulb makes sense to get it working.
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