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Tom Taylor

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An untoned contact print (sun) from an 810 Delta 100 negative:

50108653328_6a75efccf7_z.jpg



From the same negative but palladium-toned:



50108655728_cb5b6244f3_z.jpg

The subject is the Methodists church in Bodie and were taken with a 360mm lens or 480mm lens and printed on Bergger Cot 320 5 years ago.

Thomas
 

cliveh

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Scan-3.jpg
 

nmp

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An untoned contact print (sun) from an 810 Delta 100 negative:

50108653328_6a75efccf7_z.jpg



From the same negative but palladium-toned:



50108655728_cb5b6244f3_z.jpg
The subject is the Methodists church in Bodie and were taken with a 360mm lens or 480mm lens and printed on Bergger Cot 320 5 years ago.

Thomas​

hmm....I would have thought the toned one would be darker/cooler than the un-toned one, in general. VDB behaves differently?

:Niranjan.
 
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hmm....I would have thought the toned one would be darker/cooler than the un-toned one, in general. VDB behaves differently?

:Niranjan.

I was surprised by that, too. Also, the manner of change in the sky struck me as odd.

Overall, the contrast appears to have decreased... much flatter after toning.
 

Adam W

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50133907718_09fac42448_c.jpg

An old 35mm neg scanned and printed on cheap overhead transparency pages with a cheap all-in-one printer. Arches Aquarelle Hot Press paper.
 
OP
OP

Tom Taylor

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Here's another one from the same outing shot on 810 Delta 100, contact printed on Cot 320 and toned with palladium:

50141071576_739ea9b1be_o.jpg


Remember, this is the 100% analogue section so if you "An old 35mm neg scanned and printed on cheap overhead transparency pages with a cheap all-in-one printer. Arches Aquarelle Hot Press paper." then it belongs in the Hybrid section and not in this one.

Have a nice day,

Thomas

 

Donald Qualls

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Remember, this is the 100% analogue section so if you "An old 35mm neg scanned and printed on cheap overhead transparency pages with a cheap all-in-one printer. Arches Aquarelle Hot Press paper." then it belongs in the Hybrid section and not in this one.

On the other hand, if you made an enlarge interpositive and contact printed that to get an internegative and then printed that with van Dyke, you'd be good to go. :smile:
 

cliveh

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Bookcase APUG.jpg
 

Donald Qualls

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Nice bookshelf, Clive. Nice print, too.
 

revdoc

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From a Rollei IR neg, enlarged onto Arista Ortho Litho film and printed on Bergger Cot160. The scanner removed most of the brown.

2020-07-22_051652-02.jpeg
 

ulrauko

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2020-07-23-0003.jpg

2020-07-23-0002.jpg

2020-07-21-0005.jpg


vdb, 4x5 delta 100 neg, dev'd in pyro-350, selenium toned
 

cliveh

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Cross APUG.jpg
 

fgorga

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.

Vandyke Brown, Gold leaf. by Paul Fitz, on Flickr

same neg contact print on baking paper backed with fake gold leaf.

Paul

Wonderful prints!

I have been experimenting with making cyanotypes on vellum and backing them with (imitation) gold leaf ala Dan Burkholder. Thus I am very interested in the details of your process. So I hope that you do not mind me peppering you with questions!

Are you using the typical non-stick parchment paper used by bakers? If so, bleached or unbleached? Do you have to treat the paper to get it to absorb sensitizer? Are you varnishing the print after exposure to increase transparency?

I have made some nice cyanotypes on vellum but it is not transparent enough to allow the metal to show well. I have tried the vellum the Burkholders sell for their process, but am still working on getting a good cyanotype print with it. I'm using digital negatives and need to optimize the curve. This is a long slow process given all the steps involved. I've also had issues with the paper buckling and not flattening back down well.

I've made some nice inkjet prints on vellum backed with gold or copper, but have not tried to show them on the web because the scans don't do them justice.

Regards,
 

awty

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Paul

Wonderful prints!

I have been experimenting with making cyanotypes on vellum and backing them with (imitation) gold leaf ala Dan Burkholder. Thus I am very interested in the details of your process. So I hope that you do not mind me peppering you with questions!

Are you using the typical non-stick parchment paper used by bakers? If so, bleached or unbleached? Do you have to treat the paper to get it to absorb sensitizer? Are you varnishing the print after exposure to increase transparency?

I have made some nice cyanotypes on vellum but it is not transparent enough to allow the metal to show well. I have tried the vellum the Burkholders sell for their process, but am still working on getting a good cyanotype print with it. I'm using digital negatives and need to optimize the curve. This is a long slow process given all the steps involved. I've also had issues with the paper buckling and not flattening back down well.

I've made some nice inkjet prints on vellum backed with gold or copper, but have not tried to show them on the web because the scans don't do them justice.

Regards,
Hi Frank. Its been about 18 mths since I experimented with the process and I was constantly changing methods.
I had one baking paper that would hold most of the emulsion during washing, its very flimsy and still needed to over expose, have no idea what paper it was, just what I found in the wraps draw.I didnt have any luck with any of the tracing paper I tried. Someone gave me a piece of the correct paper, which is stronger and less crinkly, but also less transparent.
I tried, varnish, epoxy, shellac and anything else I could find lying around. I bought a bottle of sizing glue, but its still in the same packet.
Was going to experiment this year, but struggling with motivation. Last weekend I found a few I earlier prints I discarded and they dont look too bad, maybe you can motivate me to try again.
I washed my prints by placing them on a plastic cutting board and gently washing under a shower nozzle, really easy to tare when wet.
Think the best method once you have a print on the paper, is to glue the gilding with the correct glue, then varnish over the top, then dry and use a iron or print flattener.
They are really hard to show on the internet, so need to give some dispensation. I love how the light plays with them.
 

cliveh

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Gee, that a little one. The smallest I've used is 4x5, but I have some wee little antique contact print frames, I could us for smaller.

As far as I can remember, the original was taken on 35 mm, but then duplicated onto same size otho film and then enlarged onto multiple large format ortho and then contact printed as a Van Dyke.
 

awty

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As far as I can remember, the original was taken on 35 mm, but then duplicated onto same size otho film and then enlarged onto multiple large format ortho and then contact printed as a Van Dyke.
That makes more sense, just that I have a very small contact printer and thought about using it for some very small prints.
 

Donald Qualls

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Not entirely impractical. Originally, 127 was a contact print format, and full frame is about the same size as 6x4.5, which is about the same size as Instax Mini. Now, 127 half frame (roughly same as 828, barely bigger than 35mm 24x36) is a little small for comfortable print viewing, but the old i-Zone instant cameras gave a print almost exactly that size).
 

awty

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Not entirely impractical. Originally, 127 was a contact print format, and full frame is about the same size as 6x4.5, which is about the same size as Instax Mini. Now, 127 half frame (roughly same as 828, barely bigger than 35mm 24x36) is a little small for comfortable print viewing, but the old i-Zone instant cameras gave a print almost exactly that size).
This is 65 x 45, can make my own mini VDB's
Have a couple of quarter plates and a half plate as well.
20200725_083817.jpg 20200725_084321.jpg
 
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