OP
OP
Deleted member 88956
My “proper” was a jab at A12V back which I never understood existence of. Nor will I ever.
My “proper” was a jab at A12V back which I never understood existence of. Nor will I ever.Proper ? The 38 is such a wonderful lens and super wide in every direction - just shoot the whole square
SWC is a very wide angle view, which in itself takes some getting used to, especially if one has not done any such a wide capture before (me for sure). But any camera should not be intimidating to the point of giving up on it, and perhaps even more so, one like the SWC. Perhaps I am misreading your post, as I can understand that wide view is not for everyone as it is a significant departure from almost any other point of perspective, including even super telephoto lengths which to me feels a lot more ... natural.I hope it is worth repeating something I've said before about the SWC: it's a great camera for capturing a scene. But if you want to photograph something or someone within that scene you have to have exceptional skill.
That might explain why I no longer have one...
I only asked about use of A16 back on SWC as a matter of curiosity, although having one in the bag would not hurt, if say at end of the day film brought out goes low and opportunities keep popping up and getting 16 frames vs. 12 might make a difference.There are two reasons why square format is the perfect format:
And yes indeed, compared to my second most commonly used camera (Mamiya 645 Pro TL) the Hasselblad is just a bit heavier but vastly more flexible. The only reason I even have the Mamiya is because I couldn't afford the Hasselblad 203FE to get aperture priority and faster shutter.
- The square is geometrically optimal to capture the maximum of an image circle. This comes down to the best theoretical equipment weight to image quality ratio.
- Each image gives you three orientations for cropping later: square, horizontal and vertical. No need to rotate the camera or waste film on "orientation bracketing".
P.S. No, I am not a Sirius alias.
No problems using viewfinder, just a matter of getting used to how it shows vs. what is captured on film. The barrel distortion is not an issue, got past it quick, but still when one has no super wide shooting under his belt there are compositional aspects to adjust to.If you are having problems using the view finder to place the bottom edge of the frame. Turn the camera upside down.
Once you are comfortable with the wide field of view of the SWC, drop 8 mm off the focal length and try out the 30mm Fisheye. Just remember to check to see that you do not have your shoe tops in the bottom of the frame.
Yeah, I'm a bit limited in subject matter and rather ugly grey weather these days, but I can see what you mean. But even trying some table top is going to be fun, just need a ... big tableVery good. You are getting the hang of the SWC. Look for compositions with verticals near both side edges or horizontals near the top and bottom to see the power of the SWC rectilinear lens.
Yeah, I'm a bit limited in subject matter and rather ugly grey weather these days, but I can see what you mean. But even trying some table top is going to be fun, just need a ... big table
After these two rolls I am looking to get a 20mm for Canon F1. Won't be same geometrical performance, but very similar angle, one I never had for a 35mm.
Yeah, I know what you mean. Input appreciated. Will post some when I get them.Take a look at post #3, photos 2, 3 and 4.
My “proper” was a jab at A12V back which I never understood existence of. Nor will I ever.
I got deep enough into it to find a ground glass screen and a prism finder to slide onto it. Then I could set it up like a view camera, and when happy put on the film back instead and take the shot. But even then, the slightest error in aligning any vertical or horizontal line in the scene would screw things up. And my perverse desire to make it into a portrait camera (possibly one of my more stupid ideas, or just a really good challenge!) turned out to be well beyond my skill level. I do enjoy the 28mm lens on a 35mm camera, or the equivalent elsewhere, like the 20mm on my Pen-F or Distagon 50mm on the 503cx. But it took me some time to figure out how to use them, and I'm afraid I'm a bit formulaic in the way I do (subject close and to one side of the frame, rest of background as blurred as possible. You see why I like the Nikon 28mm/f1.4! I keep a 20mm/f2.8 around for the F6, and used to have a Voigtlander 15mm for the Leicas, but they were/are like fish-eye lenses, for rare special effects rather than regular use..
I think I made only a couple of semi-successful portraits with it (marred by clumsy processing of Delta 3200):
One of a colleague during Sunday morning rounds at the hospital
and one of my better half:
It was OK to set up a scene, but so hard for me to have something within that scene as subject:
Perhaps it would have all come together with a few dozen rolls of film until I caught on. But when it was suddenly time to (involuntarily, due to leukemia) rationalise the cameras, and I had to keep one medium format camera, there was no way it was going to be the SWC and nothing else. But I do love to see what other, more skilled people can do with it.
If you are going to use an adapter and a prism finder on a SWC then put it on a tripod and you will get the composition as desired not shifted.
I know it is a rare baby and I don’t have one. I’d keep it framed though anywaysI'll give you $150 for yours.
I got deep enough into it to find a ground glass screen and a prism finder to slide onto it. Then I could set it up like a view camera, and when happy put on the film back instead and take the shot. But even then, the slightest error in aligning any vertical or horizontal line in the scene would screw things up. And my perverse desire to make it into a portrait camera (possibly one of my more stupid ideas, or just a really good challenge!) turned out to be well beyond my skill level. I do enjoy the 28mm lens on a 35mm camera, or the equivalent elsewhere, like the 20mm on my Pen-F or Distagon 50mm on the 503cx. But it took me some time to figure out how to use them, and I'm afraid I'm a bit formulaic in the way I do (subject close and to one side of the frame, rest of background as blurred as possible. You see why I like the Nikon 28mm/f1.4! I keep a 20mm/f2.8 around for the F6, and used to have a Voigtlander 15mm for the Leicas, but they were/are like fish-eye lenses, for rare special effects rather than regular use..
I think I made only a couple of semi-successful portraits with it (marred by clumsy processing of Delta 3200):
One of a colleague during Sunday morning rounds at the hospital
and one of my better half:
It was OK to set up a scene, but so hard for me to have something within that scene as subject:
Perhaps it would have all come together with a few dozen rolls of film until I caught on. But when it was suddenly time to (involuntarily, due to leukemia) rationalise the cameras, and I had to keep one medium format camera, there was no way it was going to be the SWC and nothing else. But I do love to see what other, more skilled people can do with it.
I do have the Mark II and with 12 mini it works without wide angle attachment. I like it, just wish it was featured better for other aspects of analog shooting.If you get the Mark II Viewfinder app for your newer generation iPhone (with ultra wide lens) it can simulate the view of a SWC. Or just about any other camera lens combination.
If you get the Mark II Viewfinder app for your newer generation iPhone (with ultra wide lens) it can simulate the view of a SWC. Or just about any other camera lens combination.
Of course but it is nice for spotting camera position when shooting off tripod. But, SWC already has a “mark II” mounted on top so not exactly a must.The Mark II Viewfinder app does not make a phone lens rectilinear.
The Mark II Viewfinder app does not make a phone lens rectilinear.
At least from iphone 12 it has a extra wide lens which has angle of view 125 or something like that, so when Biogon is turned on there is plenty of space shown on screen outside the 6x6 frame. No attchment needed for 12 and later until Apple dumps that wide lens.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?