Well what you did worked out well anyway. Great photograph.
Well, I had my first big goof shooting film this year. I picked up a Mamiya C330 yesterday, and I ran a roll of Arista 400 through it. Since the C330 doesn't have a meter, I used a meter app on my phone which has shown to match what my R5 and my Mamiya 645 meter at, so it's pretty accurate. Shot the roll, and was sitting at home later and opened the light meter app again....and realized I had shot the whole roll with the app set to -2 EC, which I had set when messing around with it and testing the features of it.
Ugh. Now, I had shot the roll at 200 instead of 400 due to some recommendations here, but that still left me a full stop underexposed for all shots, plus any errors I made it metering anyway. To compensate, I had to push process it to 800, and I only have Rodinal right now, which isn't really known as the best for fast films, nor push processing, but it is what it is. I also think I overdeveloped it, though I followed the Master Dev list for Foma 400 at 800 in Rodinal. (10 minutes at 1+25). So, learned a few lessons. The shots came out, though the negatives were very dense, and of course grain is high since it's a cheap film that was push processed in a developer known to keep grain strong, but what can you do.
Here's a shot I liked, though it doesn't have enough depth of field. I didn't have a tripod with me and the light was getting low, so I was at f/8...probably needed f/16 or f/22 at least. Mamiya C330f, 80mm f/2.8 @ f/8, Arista.edu 400, pushed to 800:
Well, I had my first big goof shooting film this year. I picked up a Mamiya C330 yesterday, and I ran a roll of Arista 400 through it. Since the C330 doesn't have a meter, I used a meter app on my phone which has shown to match what my R5 and my Mamiya 645 meter at, so it's pretty accurate. Shot the roll, and was sitting at home later and opened the light meter app again....and realized I had shot the whole roll with the app set to -2 EC, which I had set when messing around with it and testing the features of it.
Ugh. Now, I had shot the roll at 200 instead of 400 due to some recommendations here, but that still left me a full stop underexposed for all shots, plus any errors I made it metering anyway. To compensate, I had to push process it to 800, and I only have Rodinal right now, which isn't really known as the best for fast films, nor push processing, but it is what it is. I also think I overdeveloped it, though I followed the Master Dev list for Foma 400 at 800 in Rodinal. (10 minutes at 1+25). So, learned a few lessons. The shots came out, though the negatives were very dense, and of course grain is high since it's a cheap film that was push processed in a developer known to keep grain strong, but what can you do.
Here's a shot I liked, though it doesn't have enough depth of field. I didn't have a tripod with me and the light was getting low, so I was at f/8...probably needed f/16 or f/22 at least. Mamiya C330f, 80mm f/2.8 @ f/8, Arista.edu 400, pushed to 800:
I'm not a huge fan of large grain, so perhaps that's why I feel a little let down on this. Grain is about 4x what I get on Tri-X at box speed...also the curl on Arista/fomapan is just insane...makes dealing with the negatives and scanning just a pain.But, allow me to say that I would have printed this image a tod darker so to let 'speak' the quarter tones and let 'sag' the three quarter tones, but ofcourse this is a very, very, personal interpretation...
I'm not a huge fan of large grain, so perhaps that's why I feel a little let down on this. Grain is about 4x what I get on Tri-X at box speed...also the curl on Arista/fomapan is just insane...makes dealing with the negatives and scanning just a pain.
Anyway, I don't mind a darker interpretation, though I have lost the highlights here. Here's a darker go:
...but this much is less appealing to me. It's not awful or anything, just not my preference.
I'm not a huge fan of large grain, so perhaps that's why I feel a little let down on this. Grain is about 4x what I get on Tri-X at box speed...also the curl on Arista/fomapan is just insane...makes dealing with the negatives and scanning just a pain.
Anyway, I don't mind a darker interpretation, though I have lost the highlights here. Here's a darker go:
Have you tried T-Max 400? In terms of granularity it's about as good as it gets at that speed.
If I am not mistaking, Arista 400 is (rebranded) FOMAPAN 400 film, which is a good yet very traditional emulsion (nothing wrong with that). As Rodinal is one of the oldest developers still made (°Berlin 1891), I think it's a good match...
I always had some doubts on pushing FOMAPAN 400, but here I see it works rather well at 800 ASA. I think that I wasn't using the optimum developer (X-Tol).
Anyway, I like that picture a lot, not to mention the pinpoint grain!
But, allow me to say that I would have printed this image a tod darker so to let 'speak' the quarter tones and let 'sag' the three quarter tones, but ofcourse this is a very, very, personal interpretation...
PS: the C330 is a very good camera, one of the best designed TLR's, no mirror slam, interchangeable lenses, a bellows allowing some close up and heavy enough to allow rather slow speeds handheld.
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Basilica Sainte-Marie-Madeleine, Vézelay, Région Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, France.
View attachment 304366
Hasselblad 500CM + Planar 80mm full open aperture (handheld), on Tri-X @ 1000ASA processed in E-76 1+1, wet scanned on Epson 750.
What does 'wet scanned' mean?
Have you tried T-Max 400? In terms of granularity it's about as good as it gets at that speed.
To compensate, I had to push process it to 800, and I only have Rodinal right now, which isn't really known as the best for fast films, nor push processing, but it is what it is.
FWIW, I've had excellent results with .EDU Ultra 400 (= Fomapan 400) in homebrew Rodinal (Parodinal), even pushed +1 stop. I use 1+50, double the Massive Dev Chart time, and agitate first 30 seconds then three inversions every 5th minute (dev time runs to 20 minutes at 20C, IIRC) -- not quite semi-stand. This gives the developer plenty of time to work in the shadows, but without overdeveloping the highlights -- that is, a strong compensating effect that, in my experience, is good for about 1/3 stop gain in real speed even with a developer that usually gives up 2/3 stop.
Just in case something similar happens again...
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