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Positive/Negative Internegs

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Rick Tapio

Member
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Joined
Mar 29, 2005
Messages
75
Format
ULarge Format
I have several 4X5 negatives that I would like to print as NEGATIVE images on traditional silver paper. So I need to make a internegative. I have done this successfully in the past photographing the negative with a lighted disfused white cardboard in the background.

I was just wondering if anybody has had success doing it in other ways...IE using a light box behind the original negative, or using a snadwich in a contact frame under the enlarger?

Rick
 
I set my enlarger to make a 1:1 image of the original 4x5 and then expose for 1/2" at f22 for an ISO 100 film. That gives me a good starting point. You may have to add up to 1.0 ND for some films depending on how they are sensitized.

It can make excellent images. I tend to overexpose and underdevelop to make sure I'm on the straight line portion of the curve.

PE
 
My preference would be contact printing under an enlarger as illumination is even, and there is no lens to get in the way and cause any distortion however slight.

Either that or sandwich the negs in the camera and control the exposure that way whilst focussing on a uniform light source.
That may be a better way of getting exact exposure rather than the darkroom method.

"Whatever works, and whatever is easiest"
 
My favorite way is to flip the neg and print onto a piece of graphic arts film the same size you want your print, and then just contact print that positive litho.

Another way is to flip your neg in the carrier and make a positive print. Then use that positive paper to contact print a correctly oriented negative print.

You can reverse process your paper. Someone other than I will be able to instruct you better, but the gist of it is: develop, bleach, wash, rexpose, then process as normal, starting with the development step.
 
I have successfully made positives in a camera by placing the negative, emulsion down in my case, on top of a new sheet of film, then shooting a light table with no lens in the shutter. Seems to work fine as long as you have the room in the film holder for two layers. First time I tried it it worked great - second time I had problems fitting the two layers under the edge flange. I guess some holders were older and sloppier than others. I have now made one sacrificial holder more commodious and marked it as such.
 
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