I use Silverfast to run my drum scanner, and I get the best results with color negs -- regardless of film type -- if I scan as a positive and use the autocorrect function to remove the color cast. I usually widen the white / black points just to give myself a little bit of editing latitude. Then once I have the TIF open in Photoshop I invert the image, run curves to optimize contrast, and then do minor color adjustments if needed (usually just minor warming or something). I find this workflow much better than using the film-specific profiles for negatives.