Portra paper problem (or not) w/Fujimoto CP-31?

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smieglitz

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For several years in our school darkroon we have been running a CP-31 processor with Kodak RA-4 RT Developer. The processor was out for repair much of last year and was recently put back into service. Coincidentally, students have switched to using Portra NC films and the new Portra Endura paper. My experience previously was running films such as VHC, VPS, Kodak Gold 100, Fujicolor, Agfa Ultra, etc., and the older Portra, Supra, Ultra papers. So, several things have changed recently, and the print quality has been affected.

The Portra NC film seems very low contrast and from what I can see in the prints, I don't like the color rendition at all. But, the problem could be the processor timing or replenishment, new paper, etc., so I'm hoping someone can give me a clue as to the cause of the following problem. The prints seem to be for example, both cyan and magenta/red at the same time. Minor filter pack changes seem to make bigger changes than with previously used materials. But the color seems just awful to me and I can't figure out the cause.

I'm not getting blue-blacks and have adjusted the processor speed to give a 45 second development time (i.e., 280mm/minute per the manual). So, I don't think it is underdevelopment. The processor has a replenisher unit and I haven't changed the rate settings. I have also slowed the processor to give more development but that hasn't improved things. The prints don't have that cyan stain that occurs with blix contamination. Nor do they appear low contrast and gray because of improper blixing.

But, skin looks jaundiced at the same time that it seems magenta or blue in other areas. Likewise, pavement looks magenta in one area and cyan in another and reflections don't seem to be the cause of these variations. It is like the colors have crossed-over, but in areas of similar tone rather than a shadow-highlight cross-over.

No one is (correctly) using the same combination of materials/technique so I can't point to any sort of consistency in that regard. (Some may be using similar materials but their technique otherwise varies in regard to over-/underexposure quality of the roll, or subject matter, or lighting conditions or film speeds 160/400.)

Unless I'm missing something obvious, what I think may be happening is the local lab where students get their film developed is experienceing a downturn in the demand for film processing, chemicals may not be turning over as rapidly as in the past, and the QC may also not be what it was in the past. A couple local photographers that use this lab have indicated they have recently had problems with film developed at this lab. But, I can't say that has been my experience and perhaps the lab is really OK. I've never had a problem with them, but it has been several years since I've used their services.

Could poor film processing cause the type of problems we are experiencing or does something else come to mind? Maybe this is a local thing. Have others experienced similar results?

What would we expect to see in terms of a color shift if the paper was being overdeveloped?

This situation sort of reminds me of the dislike I had for the old Ektar 25. That film always seemed to have a magenta bias to me and I disliked it tremendously. But, at least I could point to the color bias and say it was magenta. I can't really do that with the Portra film I'm seeing now. It seems very low contrast but not consistently off in one direction colorwise.

I need a clue. Thanks in advance for any insights.

joe
 

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Joe;

I can offer no direct help except to say that when I changed from Supra III to Supra Endura I saw virtually no change except a tweak in filter pack and a slight hue shift in reds due to a change in coupler for dye stability.

The tweak was exactly what Kodak predicted based on the box stuffer.

PE
 
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smieglitz

smieglitz

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PE,

Thanks for the reply. I was hoping you would chime in.

What might one expect to see in terms of a color shift from overdevelopment of the paper?

I'm planning to dig out some personal negatives and reprint them on the new Endura papers to see if it might just be a film problem rather than anything to do with the processor. At least I'll know what to expect from those negatives.

Joe
 

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Joe, I have not done any overdevelopment lately. :wink: I usually develop normally. What I have found is that the paper is rather self limiting in that it goes to its desired contrast and speed and then pretty much stops with a slight red-cyan shift if anything. The cyan is on top, and so any over agitation tends to overdo the cyan just as overdevelopment will increase cyan, then magenta. Usually though it is just a slight density increase.

PE
 

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Two other things to check....have you put a thermometer in the developer tank to see if the developer is at the correct temperature for 45 second processing? Are you using starter for your initial tank solution?

I have a NuTek processor. It has a spray bar that sprays the surface of the paper with developer as soon as the paper enters the developer trough. If that spray bar gets misaligned where it is not hitting evenly the surface of the paper, improper developing could occur. I wonder if your Fujimoto has this feature?

Also, have you checked the temperature of your blix?

Have you tried printing an older negative that you know to have been processed correctly?
 
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smieglitz

smieglitz

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Two other things to check....have you put a thermometer in the developer tank to see if the developer is at the correct temperature for 45 second processing? Are you using starter for your initial tank solution?

The processor has a temperature readout for the thermostat which has been adjusted to the 45-second development time. The thermostatic control and heater appear to be operating correctly. Yes, the starter has been added to the initial tank solution.

I have a NuTek processor. It has a spray bar that sprays the surface of the paper with developer as soon as the paper enters the developer trough. If that spray bar gets misaligned where it is not hitting evenly the surface of the paper, improper developing could occur. I wonder if your Fujimoto has this feature?

The arrangement sounds similar and the alignment is correct as far as I can tell.

Also, have you checked the temperature of your blix?

No. But I see no indication of under-blixing and my understanding is the blix should go to completion so any slight over-blixing shouldn't matter, should it?

Have you tried printing an older negative that you know to have been processed correctly?

That's the next step.

Joe
 

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Joe;

After thinking this over, could you be using RA-RT developer as a replenisher? That might do it. Also, check the pH. It should be about 10.1 at 68 deg F or 20 deg C. Lower pH would do it.

PE
 

frotog

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Joe;

After thinking this over, could you be using RA-RT developer as a replenisher? That might do it. Also, check the pH. It should be about 10.1 at 68 deg F or 20 deg C. Lower pH would do it.

PE

I'm not sure I follow you PE. Joe has already confirmed that he was using kodak ra-rt replenisher w/ starter as his tank solution. Wouldn't he then use the same ra-rt as a replenisher?

I have a cp-51 and I've always used either kodak ektacolor ra-rt or cpac imaging triphase developer for rt. I've found that the prescribed amounts of starter for both these developers makes the bath run a tad cool in the tank (low ld and low hd numbers but on aim hd-ld). I can only deduce that this is the result of weak spray bar action or possibly out of date starter (12-16 months w/ no nitrogen blanket). I've compensated by cutting the amount of starter by 50%.

Joe, I'm curious as to what was wrong w/ your machine and where you got it fixed. I've seen residual amounts of tank and rack cleaners throw off the color on my machine. Have you tried dumping the developer and starting over?
 
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It sounds to me like the film is the problem. I usually found any problems that I had with RA-4 processing were obvious I don't think I ever had crossover problems unless the paper was really old. You could also see what another labs results are from the same negative. That would also be a good indicator of where the problem may be.
 
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smieglitz

smieglitz

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Frotog;

You could accidentally use the developer as a replenisher. That is what I mean.

PE

Ron,

I'm confused now regarding the chemistry. We use RA-RT Developer Replenisher as the replenisher but also as the initial tank solution. The initial tank solution is diluted and has the Developer Starter added. Am I missing something here? It is the same mix we've been using for several years without problem.

I'll check the pH. If it is too acidic, what is needed to correct it? Too basic?

...I can only deduce that this is the result of weak spray bar action or possibly out of date starter (12-16 months w/ no nitrogen blanket). I've compensated by cutting the amount of starter by 50%.

Joe, I'm curious as to what was wrong w/ your machine and where you got it fixed. I've seen residual amounts of tank and rack cleaners throw off the color on my machine. Have you tried dumping the developer and starting over?

frotog: The starter is older than 16-months. Perhaps that is the problem. I have tried remixing the developer to no avail. I'm curious if the starter is out-of-date, why would a diluted solution be used? (I would think older would generally mean weaker and so a more concentrated solution would need to be used.)

The processor was repaired by Omega-Satter a few months ago and put back into service in mid-January. The paper sensor became erratic and the machine was going into sleep mode randomly and often, sometimes within seconds of "waking up." IIRC, a couple worm gears were also replaced and a bent roller mechanism shaft was repaired. I have not chemically cleaned it since, but have some Jobo Processor Clean that I use on it at the end of each semester. The CP-31 is used M, W, Sa each week and the processor drained, flushed twice, and the tanks wiped down after each daily use. It has probably been set up ~24 times @ 4-6 hours each run since its return. I'd estimate it has operated less than 200 hours since the repair. We went to this approximate every-other-day schedule to minimize the time the CP-31 would be sitting idle with chemistry in the tanks.

I'll have time tomorrow to test some of my old negatives and see if the results are better.

Do they still make Shirleys?

Joe
 

PHOTOTONE

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It sounds like you are using the RA-RT replenisher correctly. Using starter + replenisher (at proper dilution) for the tank solution, then mixed replenisher for the replenisher solution. I really doubt the starter is at fault. This is exactly how I use my NuTek processor which is functionally identical to your Fujimoto.
 

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Joe;

You are doing things correctly. I thought you might have some plain Developer around and could have used that as replenisher. I think it more likely that you are using a bad negative.

Basically, a mix error using the replenisher + starter as replenisher or the developer (sold as a separate item) used this way as replenisher could cause the problem you are seeing. It as a wild guess. Sorry.

PE
 
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smieglitz

smieglitz

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Well, I printed some of my old Fuji Reala and Kodak Gold 100 negatives with the machine today onto Fuji Crystal Archive paper and everything worked as I expected. So, I don't think it is a RA chemical or machine problem after all.

I guess the problems I'm fielding have to do with a combination of film exposure and development issues.

Thanks for all the comments.

Joe
 
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