Imagine architects having a symposium on hammers.
Ha! Architects and engineers would be way better at their own career if they first understood how to use a hammer, or whatever the real world involves before they go around dictating to other people how to do things. I was heavily involved with both architects and builders, and the best architects chose to apprentice to reputable contractors first, so they'd actually know what they were talking about when they went into practice for themselves. Otherwise, all hell can break loose. People idolize architects like Frank Lloyd Wright and Bernard Maybeck; but their designs often caused utter misery over time : leaking roofs, collapsing walls, cracked foundations. I've consulted on renovations by both famous architects, and numerous others too. Esthetically grand and functionally durable are not necessarily synonymous.
Likewise when it comes to photo gurus. A part of the problem not sufficiently recognized these days is that many of those old heroes worked with long-scale contact papers quite different from today's projection papers. Hence they espoused overexposed, overdeveloped "thick" negatives - advice likely to be counterproductive nowadays unless one is working in a similarly long scale process. But once that kind of practice got enshrined into literature and workshops, it kinda stuck, logical or not.
What makes you think that architects and engineers do not know what they are doing??
Zones 3 and 4 aren't really serious shadow values unless your film has a very limited contrast range like Pan F, or if the scene itself is relatively low contrast. No wonder those alleged ZS gurus who preach that have so much trouble with overexposed blown-out highlights. I could mention a couple of well-known names, but somebody will no doubt get offended that I swatted their favorite sacred cow.
But I guess people just gotta try it. Even ole Ansel recognized more usable shadow gradation real estate down there than that. But it all depends on the specific film and exactly how you expose and develop it, as well as how you intend to print it. Roll film could be used for bracket testing relative to Z2, vs Z3, vs Z4 to at least get onto first base. But without test printing the results too, it's hard to know if you're on the right track or not. Practice makes perfect.
I don't know how anyone "previsualizes" if they don't know what to look for yet. Sounds like a dead-end alley even if they do know. The point is, you want to end up with a VERSATILE negative, which is amenable to a reasonable range of printing options. Even the apotheosized saints of Zone lore understood that, despite all their die-cast ideologue manifestos. A hole in one print is rare.
If you want to ask Minor White personally something, he's probably on some UFO seeking the ashes of Timothy Leary so he can learn color photography too.
But everyone does well with the basic simple advice already cited : expose do the shadows, develop for the highlights.
Maybe they're bad copies, but when I look at many of Ansel Adam's pictures, he has lots of complete blacks in them where he didn't seem interested in knowing what's going on in the shadows. Blacks are very dramatic. Often, who cares what's in the shadows? The eyes are drawn to lighter areas anyway. I think people get hung up with getting shadow details when they're unimportant
Here's an example. Does anyone care if the bark of the trees is black? In fact, does the blackness make a more dramatic picture?
Why is all this the "poor man's" previsualization? Do wealthy individuals have a different method? Maybe an assistant who figures it all out for them?
Being not the new Ansel Adams (check my previous posts...) and above all not having a darkrooom at my disposal right now, wanted to ask you if there are pre-measured tables or something of the kind where I can tell, for a given film (especially b/w) if, given a delta of x stops from middle grey, I will have detail or not? Maybe for a certain type of paper, which then I can translate into monitor viewing (I target monitors invariably)?
How about this one?
I would be surprised if there were no Adam's prints near you.
He made so many (with assistants) that when he died, as I recall, that when the true number of each print was found out, some buyers became irate at what large amounts of money they had paid for his work.
It’s not just number of prints. He printed the same negative differently at different points in his life. The variation of prints from the same negative can be quite profound.
How about this one?
He later termed that as re-visualization.
Where are you looking at those pictures? Your computer screen? Your TV? That’s your first mistake. Go look at real prints and you’ll see far fewer shadows that have no detail. I’m surprised at how frequently this discussion comes up, and it’s always about Ansel Adams pictures for some reason.
They don't have to be mistakes - times change, your tastes change. The same image can be re-interpreted accordingly. Call it artistic evolution.I call it correcting my mistakes.
Let's forget about the prints for now. Just look at the photo on your screen. Does the tree trunks and other areas that are black make the picture look better or worse? Does it matter if you were able to see more details or can the photo stand on its own?
Alan and others - AA had quite a few flawed negatives. Famous examples include "Moonrise, Hernadez, NM", which had blotchy skies due to the unevenness of water bath development, his "Gates of the Valley" in Yosemite, where the negative was damaged by putting out a fire in his studio, and his Lone Pine dawn shot where there was a prominent "LP" rock arrangement up on a hillside he didn't want, so literally abraded it from the negative. To disguise those kinds of issues, it was necessary to print the affected portions of the negative pure black, or nearly so. But that also lended more of the dramatic effect many people like. But he didn't use solid black for a conspicuous graphic effect like Brett Weston was famous for.
As far as editioning goes, there was a time when you could buy TEN mounted AA 8x10 prints in the gift shop in Yos Valley (Best Studio, owned by his father-in-law) for $40. That's $4 per print, and even factoring inflation, was a relative bargain. But those were just certain images darkroom mass-produced by his assistants, and were typically signed by him simply, AA, and not his complete signature.
Modern mass-produced editions are all over the map, anywhere from just OK posters and postcards to really high quality press work.
He was an influential teacher and notable photographer, and a key player in both the National Parks movement and acceptance of photographer as a fine art. But I don't know why anyone would hold him up as some kind of ultimate standard of either exposure or printing. Yeah, I know the Zone System pretty well myself; but it was just too small and confining a shirt size for me, and I left it behind in the rear view mirror long ago.
I'll simply quote one of my favorite photographers and instructors in response: every square millimeter of the picture counts. There are no areas (zero, NONE) in the print that "don't matter." I know you don't see it that way, and that there are parts of pictures that you don't care about, and that's fine--your tastes are your tastes.
And in hindsight, I believe you answered your own question in the first four words you typed in post #56.
Pray tell, how do I know what the "more important areas" of a picture are? Everything counts, and everything in the picture adds up to a whole. There are no degrees of importance. Again, we disagree on this. That's fine.Brightening up shadow areas to see details better may pull your eye away from the more important areas. You have to look at a picture as a whole.
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