Polaroid Type 55 Negative Clearing

[Jimbob]

Is someone willing to share their process of handling the negative from a polaroid Type 55 P/N? I've read several processes on the internet. Some say soak in Sodium Sulfite but they don't say how long or what dilution. Others say use Perma Wash and then use Selenium Toner. I know Polaroid makes a kit -- but $50 bucks? No thanks. Must be a cheaper way. I'll make adjustments after clearing the first negative but where do you start? Thanks for the help.

jp

 

[bill schwab]

Is someone willing to share their process of handling the negative from a polaroid Type 55 P/N?

There has been much discussion on this subject. Try this link for some of the threads.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Good Luck!
Bill

 

[Paddy]

"Some say soak in Sodium Sulfite but they don't say how long or what dilution. Others say use Perma Wash and then use Selenium Toner."

Jimbob; you might start by reviewing Polaroid's data sheet here: T55 Film

Polaroid recommends using an 18% solution of Sodium Sulfite, and that's what I've always used. If you're shooting in the field, you can also simply use water to hold the processed film for up to a couple of days.(although the data sheet no longer states a time period). Or simply remove the film from the holder, unprocessed, until you're back home. I also use Kodak Rapid Fix with hardener, to help minimize emulsion scratches, as it's a very, very delicate film when wet.

Selenium toner would only be used as a means of building density on a flat negative. Hope this helps.

 

[NikoSperi]

Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent - HCA. Period.

 

[rbarker]

The only advantage to the kit is that it includes a nice little rack for clearing multiple negs at the same time. If you already have a daylight 4x5 tank, that might suffice just as well. As mentioned the negs are delicate, especially while wet, so the hardening fixer is a good idea. If clearing in a small tray, you may also find a soft, fine-bristled brush (e.g. a camel hair artist's brush) will help in dislodging the blue goo.

 

[Jim Noel]

I have an original Polaroif clearing bucket which I carry filled with 18% sodium sulfite most of the time. If I am going to be out for a long time, I don' process until I get home, in most cases.
If I am near the ocean, I use sea water.

 

[Jimbob]

Thanks to All

Many thanks for the replies. I'm looking forward to using this film -- now that I have some more useful information

Thanks
Jimbob

 

[SeamusARyan]

Hi Jimbob hope you're still reading this thread

I wouldn't scoff at spending 50 bucks on the kit when you think how much the film is costing you, plus the time and irreplacability of the wonderous images you will make if you were to scratch any of the negs or in anyway make them unusable.

I was first taught to use the sodium sulphite sparingly in a tray and to use cotton wool to help remove the gunk, numerous bad darkroom sessions later looking at tiny scratches and some not so tiny led me to invest in the kit and not to look back.

I tend to leave them in the solution for much longer than recommended, up to 3 hours which allows me to easily peel everything off the negative as the glue has broken down by then, the only provisio being make sure you keep the solution on the cool side. I have on several occasions not paid attention to the ambient temp and had the following and worse happen

hopefully you should see an image here, I'm new to all this forum posting stuff so bear with me

anyway, have a play and if you have any specific queries, post them here or email me directly

enjoy

Seamus
www.seamusryan.com

 

[SeamusARyan]

OK so that didn't quite work out how I'd hoped, but any way there it is

I quite like the image, I've never worked it up in the darkroom though, but hopefully you'll realise it's not a very repeatable thing to achieve, so I've never pursued it

Seamus
www.seamusryan.com