PMK Pyro and push processing

[DrPablo]

Yes, a bit of an alliteration in my subject.

Basically I've been using nothing but xtol 1:1, but I now have some PMK Pyro that I'm ready to try out.

I did some shooting today in conditions that will require some push processing. I'm probably going to develop for 14 minutes instead of the usual 11. Is this completely missing the point with a pyro developer? My understanding is that the strength of pyro developers is that they will retain detail in highlights. If I need to push in order to get those highlights to begin with, will I 1) be hindering myself with this developer, and 2) not notice a difference in the highlights as compared with using xtol?

 

[gainer]

Pyro, of course, increases contrast above what would be obtained by the silver part of the image alone, more with graded papers than with VC. If increased contrast is the only requirement, you may find that normal development in PMK will do the trick with graded papers.

I won't make any predictions, but can tell you some things to try. If you use Xtol, you can bleach the developed image as if you were going to tone it with sulfide and redevelop it with PMK or other staining developer thus restoring the silver image and adding the stain density to it. The question is whether that process will be any more effective in any way than some overdevelopment with PMK alone.

Another possibility is to increase the concentration of the PMK working solution, keeping developing time the same.

Perhaps a parallel experiment is in order before you embark on the real thing. I

 

[noseoil]

Paul, no reason you can't use whatever time works for you with PMK. Pushing, pulling, etc. are basically the same, but you will find a decrease in film speed with PMK. I've changed to pyrocat-hd after a couple of years working with PMK (I like the ability of pc to draw out development times for minimal agitation and the firmer shadow values). That having been said, PMK is a good developer which I still use for some applications (flesh tones and chrome with efke 25, for example).

PMK will last a long time on the shelf. tim

 

[RAP]

Get a copy of the "Book Of Pyro" by Gordon Hutchings, very helpful for times and explanations. Also, look at;

http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Times/times.html

This should help. Gordon does not recommend pushing for N+2. However, I give one extra inversion per 15 second cycle for N+1 time and that boosts contrast a little more. Or try higher temps.

I personally use PMK exclusively right now and find it the most versitile developer I have ever used. Great for contrast reductions, especially N-3 times.

 

[DrPablo]

Thanks for the thoughts.

I think I misspoke a little. I'm not using the developer to push per se, but I do need to increase contrast.

My understanding was that staining developers will reduce contrast, not expand it. That's why it seemed counterintuitive to me to try using plus development with a staining developer.

Now here's another question. If I'm developing for silver printing (as opposed to alt processes), would it make sense to develop normally in PMK and then print at a high contrast grade (and maybe bleach), or would it make sense to increase development using a standard developer like xtol and print using a lower grade?

 

[lee]

Dr Pablo said this,"If I'm developing for silver printing (as opposed to alt processes), would it make sense to develop normally in PMK and then print at a high contrast grade (and maybe bleach), or would it make sense to increase development using a standard developer like xtol and print using a lower grade?"

first if I had to bleach back every print I would not use that developer. you are allowed to add time to the developer time. Or try Pyrocat Hd. I used PMK for about 10 years and when I changed to pyrocat hd I discovered a developer that is easy to control and is not nearly as hazardous as PMK.

lee\c

 

[DrPablo]

Interesting, I bought the PMK because it comes in pre-mixed solutions, so I wouldn't have to deal with the hazards of mixing it up.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Interesting, I bought the PMK because it comes in pre-mixed solutions, so I wouldn't have to deal with the hazards of mixing it up.

Pyrocat-HD and Pyrocat-MC are available (from PF and other sources) as pre-mixed liquid concentrates.

 

[vet173]

I use Pyrocat-P. I use it like Tim does with minimal agitation. I think in your case I would develop at the normal dilution and standard 30 second or 1 minute agitation. I would use a factor of 1.4 to get a developing time as a starting point for a 1 stop push.

 

[Amund]

Interesting, I bought the PMK because it comes in pre-mixed solutions, so I wouldn't have to deal with the hazards of mixing it up.

As long as you don`t drink or inject it, there`s no hazard involved. Common sense goes a long way...

 

[DrPablo]

As long as you don`t drink or inject it, there`s no hazard involved. Common sense goes a long way...

Where's the fun in that?

Besides, I've rather enjoyed my XTOL smoothies.

 

[Amund]

Where's the fun in that?

Besides, I've rather enjoyed my XTOL smoothies.

Lol, that`s true.

 

[gainer]

Just to make sure you didn't miss it: bleaching the dye image out of an existing PMK-developed negative will not increase the printing contrast on either VC or graded paper. How to prove this? It is easy to bleach out the silver part of the negative image leaving the dye. This negative will print at much reduced contrast on either fixed grade or VC paper, with less contrast on the graded paper, but positive contrast in both cases. In order for the dye image to produce less contrast than the silver image alone, it would have to produce a negative image by itself. The bottom line is that bleaching the dye image out of a PMK negative will REDUCE the printing contrast on both kinds of paper.
A small amount of magenta filtration on VC paper will increase the contrast of the unbleached negative on VC paper. Maximum magenta will provide all the contrast you could get from graded paper and perhaps more.

 

[DrPablo]

By mentioning bleaching above, I meant to refer to bleaching the print and not the negative. But what you're saying about the negative makes sense.