Sorry chuckroast, didn't mean to throw any shade. I spent many years on the job doing film testing, and although I know how, it seems that I've lost the desire to experiment.
I wish you the best of luck- we all have our favorite methods for film and developing, and how else will we find them without trying things? john_s makes some good points, too.
I have used PMK since day one , I met Gordon Hutchings at an event here in Toronto where he had prints up, it was a very nice camera store and gallery . His prints were outstanding with real definite highlight detail values that one does not get with some of the other developers.
I have modified my workflow with PMK in a couple of ways..
1. only do three times, 12 min for lower ISO films, 14 min for normal IS0 films and 16 min with a lower dilution for situations where I think the film is exposed in low light and would need a boost.
2. I use the same rotation on the rotary and I give a manual twist inversion when adding developer to ensure even flow. I use distilled water for the developer.
The biggest difference is I split development in two rounds of 1000ml where half the dev is done in lets say 7 min, then I capture this round for stain. and then I do a second round of 7 min to finish off.
This modification was done due to testing I did and I found that the first round developed and hardened the highlights and the second round allowed the shadows to build up and harden.
This is a great developer and really economical .
And yes for every run I have done I have used the stain and Hutchings originally proposed.
35ml - A
60ml - B
2000ml distilled water
16min development split into two 8 min runs
I'll have to investigate this, thanks!
I have optimized edge effects with PMK by reducing agitation for the second half of the development time.
I tray develop and shuffle through the stack of 4x5 sheet film once every 30 seconds to begin with (that's one flip every five seconds for six sheets). For the second half of development time, I increase the interval to once through every 60 seconds. This allows the development to begin and proceed evenly during the first half, when most of the development happens, but then encourages Mackie lines to build during the second half.
I've also experimented with stronger dilutions for increasing contrast/reducing time (which didn't help much) and with adding ascorbic acid to the developer (à la Rollo Pyro), which does seem to help if extra contrast is needed, but needs more testing.
Best,
Doremus
What about Rollo Pyro, PMK's continuous agitation for rotary? I used it years ago ago.
I have no access to a rotary processor. I only have open rubber tanks and daylight Nikkor tanks all of which require me to be the agitator ... something I've oft been called....
I use the poor man's rotary processor... BTZS tubes
It seems those are rather scarce in the wild. I do know that Steve Sherman has tubes of his own making.
Sadly, they are no longer made. I did however, make one specifically for 8x10 and semi-stand, that works okay. I prefer the manufactured one, though
a
Do you silver print or scan? I'd love to see some scans of your prints from semistand negs. (Because I am nosy.)
The timing seems off. Stand processing in freezing conditions might have made sense back in the ice age, but not under current global warming conditions. Maybe you should test boiling water next. I did recently see a documentary about a WWI combat photographer who developed his film in the cold trenches under the darkness of night, using helmets borrowed from soldiers as his chemical tanks. Better than using helmets with bullet holes through them.
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