Pink and green negs

LKT · Sep 11, 2006

We all know about pink Tmax negs. But how about green Arista.edu.ultra ones?

I have just bought some Arista.edu.ultra to try out. Shot a scene with that and also TMX 120. TMX developed with HC110 dilution H 24 deg C 9 minutes. Looks very nice.

Arista in same developer same temperature for 6 minutes. Looks fine too. A bit less shadow details - perhaps I should adjust the exposiure a bit.

But the film base is green. Not a faint tinge, but a definite cast, like the orange on colour negs.

With Tmax film, I have found that the pink tinge can be prevented by using fresh fixer. So I mixed a new batch of Kodafix, and developed another roll of Arista. Same green.

Arista.edu.ultra is supposed to be Fomapan.

Is this a common occurance with fomapan, or have I done something wrong? Any idea on how to remove the green?

I am worried that this may cause problems with VC papers, especially for the lower contrasts grades, where the filtration is less.

TIA.

Ka Tai

Kobin · Sep 11, 2006

I find it to have a blue base tint like xray film.

K.

jmailand · Sep 11, 2006

The Fomapan 200 has a light blue base, thats the way it is. I'm not sure about the other speeds because I haven't tried them yet. The film has a green antihalation layer. If you presoak the film for couple of minutes it should remove most of that. The rest should come out after you pour out the developer. I just started using it and haven't printed any of my negatives yet so I can't tell you how it will effect VC paper, I would guess that you might have to adjust the filtering down a little ,maybe a half grade to a grade, but it should still work ok. I'm sure others must have printed with the stuff, so it must be a known factor.

James

maxbloom · Sep 11, 2006

Older flat emulsions tend to have that blue-green color cast to them. You'll notice that films like Foma, Plus-X, Tri-X, and a few others all have similar color tinges because they're all older emulsions. That's why Tmax costs more than Tri-X and doesn't have the color tinge, because it's a new-style emulsion.

Dave Wooten · Sep 11, 2006

put it back in the fixer? and re wash.

djkloss · Sep 11, 2006

I just developed a roll of Tmax 100. Gave it a 5 minute pre-soak. The water came out like Welch's Grape Juice, but the stain was gone. I also gave it 5 minutes in Kodak rapid fixer.

Hope this helps.

LKT · Sep 12, 2006

jmailand said:
The Fomapan 200 has a light blue base, thats the way it is. I'm not sure about the other speeds because I haven't tried them yet. The film has a green antihalation layer. If you presoak the film for couple of minutes it should remove most of that. The rest should come out after you pour out the developer. I just started using it and haven't printed any of my negatives yet so I can't tell you how it will effect VC paper, I would guess that you might have to adjust the filtering down a little ,maybe a half grade to a grade, but it should still work ok. I'm sure others must have printed with the stuff, so it must be a known factor.

James

Thanks fpor all the prompt responses.

Both djkloss and you suggest presoaking. Is that more effective in removing the antihalation layer than just plain developer, fix and wash?

I can try that. By how much should I increase the development time? Is there a rule of thumb?

Ka Tai

LKT · Sep 12, 2006

LKT said:
Thanks fpor all the prompt responses.

Both djkloss and you suggest presoaking. Is that more effective in removing the antihalation layer than just plain developer, fix and wash?

I can try that. By how much should I increase the development time? Is there a rule of thumb?

Ka Tai

Another question, if I may.

What is the difference between presoaking and extending the wet time?

I currently develop the film for 6 minutes at 24 deg C, rinse for 30 sec, fix for 6 minutes, and wash for 20 minutes in a Calumet neg washer.

If I dilute HC110 still more, say dilution F (1:79), and develop for 9 minutes, will this have the same effect as presoaking for 3 minutes and developing for 6 minutes, as far as the antihalation layer is concerned?

I know that I have to develop for a longer period after presoaking, since it takes time for the developer to replace the water in the emulsion. I am just talking about the antihalation layer.

Developing film is, for me, a boring mechanical process. I should like to keep it as short and simple as possible.

TIA for any input.

LKT

Thomas Bertilsson · Sep 12, 2006

The difference is that you wash parts of the film out of the tank before you add the developer. It also gives a more even development.

I'm not entirely familiar with the Foma 200 film you use, but I use Tmax 100 / 400 quite a lot, and I always presoak for five minutes. Then the developer comes out fairly clear. When fixing, I fix longer (normal 3 mins, Tmax 6 mins). My fixer comes out pink (which disappears after a while). But what's important, the dye washes out of the film a lot faster when I use this method with presoaking than when I don't. My Tmax negs are absolutely clear, except for the slight gray tint inherent to the film base.
I use PyrocatHD developer, and TF-4 fixer.

- Thom

LKT · Sep 13, 2006

Thomas Bertilsson said:
The difference is that you wash parts of the film out of the tank before you add the developer. It also gives a more even development.

I'm not entirely familiar with the Foma 200 film you use, but I use Tmax 100 / 400 quite a lot, and I always presoak for five minutes. Then the developer comes out fairly clear. When fixing, I fix longer (normal 3 mins, Tmax 6 mins). My fixer comes out pink (which disappears after a while). But what's important, the dye washes out of the film a lot faster when I use this method with presoaking than when I don't. My Tmax negs are absolutely clear, except for the slight gray tint inherent to the film base.
I use PyrocatHD developer, and TF-4 fixer.

- Thom

I tried both methods last night. Presoak for 5 minutes, develop for 7 minutes, dilution H, 24 deg C; and develop for 9 minutes, dilution F (1:80), 24deg C. Both fixed for 6 minutes and washed for 20 minutes.

The film base look the same on both strips. So in the case of foma film, presoaking or not has no effect on the color of the film base.

I shall try presoaking for Tmax films. About how much longer should I develop the film?

Ka Tai

Neal · Sep 13, 2006

Dear Ka Tai,

To better remove the sensitizing dye in T-Max 100 (the pink tint), follow the fixing directions from Kodak (twice the time it takes to clear the film) and use Hypo Clearing Agent. I usually leave it in the HCA for a couple of minutes.

Neal Wydra

LKT · Sep 14, 2006

Neal said:
Dear Ka Tai,

To better remove the sensitizing dye in T-Max 100 (the pink tint), follow the fixing directions from Kodak (twice the time it takes to clear the film) and use Hypo Clearing Agent. I usually leave it in the HCA for a couple of minutes.

Neal Wydra

Thanks, I shall try HCA.

Ka Tai

Pink and green negs

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