We used to do this with students. I found that the best boxes to use as cameras were the fairly rigid plastic boxes that luxury biscuit (cookie for non Brits) assortments come in. They have snap on lids made of cardboard in a plastic surround. The matte interior didn't need black paint to control reflections. Make a half inch hole in the middle of the lid and stick aluminium foil over it on the inside. Make a pin hole in the foil with a fine needle and stick a piece of heavy insulating tape over the outside to act as a shutter. The boxes will take a sheet of 8 x 10 printing paper which can be held in place with bluetack. Use VC paper without a filter or soft fixed contrast paper for the neg. To expose, just point and take off the tape. We found that 3-5 minutes was enough on a sunny day and correspondingly more in dull weather. Ordinary B&W paper is not panchromatic and the results can look a little odd but you can also use Panalure or even sheet film (both of which need less exposure) if you don't mind doing without a safelight at the darkroom stage. After exposure replace the tape shutter and dev, fix, wash and dry normally.
To print, if you have a proper 8 x 10 contact printer, fine. Otherwise get a sheet of clean, clear glass a few inches bigger than the neg (tape up the edges for safety). Make a sandwich with a thin (quarter inch) sheet of plastic foam for support, a sheet of face up printing paper, the neg face down and the glass. You can expose by room light, but an enlarger is more directional and allows VC filters to be used.
Incidentally, if you also want them to get something of a feel for optics, try using boxes of different lengths. You can get quite nice telephoto and wide angle effects by using very long or short cameras and even a zoom lens effect with nested boxes or an old camera bellows. Remember that the effective f number of the pinhole will change with focal length, so exposure times will differ markedly.
David.