Photoshop action for scanning old color negative

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MFstooges

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I am still using Photoshop CS2. I am looking for an action or plug in to scan old color negative. I spend a lot of time color correcting and still doesn't come right. I can't get rid of the purplish hue and if I try to compensate it will throw all the other color balance off.
Or is there an alternative cheaper software for reconstructing from old color negs?
 

koraks

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All color negatives degrade in their own unique way. There's no single action that will magically fix your scans. Heck, there's no single action that will reliably balance your brand new color negatives.

Your best bet is some kind of 'intelligent' auto-color restoration tool; either within Photoshop, or one of the several pieces of software aimed specifically at scanned color negatives. The result will still be hit & miss.

IMO your best bet is to take one or two frames from a roll, or perhaps even an entire 'contact sheet' of scans, and then color balance those to satisfaction; then apply the same curve to all scans of the same roll. It helps (a lot!!!) if you scan the whole thing so that the balanced that comes out of the scanner is identical. The most straightforward way to achieve this is to scan the negatives as color slides instead, ensuring to capture 16 bit color depth as you'll run into posterization problems otherwise later on. Then invert the scans & color balance as described.
 
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MFstooges

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All color negatives degrade in their own unique way. There's no single action that will magically fix your scans. Heck, there's no single action that will reliably balance your brand new color negatives.

Your best bet is some kind of 'intelligent' auto-color restoration tool; either within Photoshop, or one of the several pieces of software aimed specifically at scanned color negatives. The result will still be hit & miss.

IMO your best bet is to take one or two frames from a roll, or perhaps even an entire 'contact sheet' of scans, and then color balance those to satisfaction; then apply the same curve to all scans of the same roll. It helps (a lot!!!) if you scan the whole thing so that the balanced that comes out of the scanner is identical. The most straightforward way to achieve this is to scan the negatives as color slides instead, ensuring to capture 16 bit color depth as you'll run into posterization problems otherwise later on. Then invert the scans & color balance as described.

Do you know if fuji frontier machine or lab scanner has this old negs color correction feature? If yes I may be able to ask them to scan couple frame and do color match in PS.
My slides on the other hand don't degrade like color negs even though they are not Kodachrome.
 

jeffreyg

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I don’t do color but a friend asked if I could rescue some faded poor color photos of his old girl friend. He emailed them to me. Out of curiosity I converted them to black and white and corrected as much as I could. I then used the nural filter in the current PS to colorize and got surprisingly good results. I used the filter to colorize a couple of original b and w negatives and also got acceptable results that could be color corrected. It of course depends on what you plan to do with the photos. Probably not the way to go for an exhibition print.
 
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MFstooges

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I don’t do color but a friend asked if I could rescue some faded poor color photos of his old girl friend. He emailed them to me. Out of curiosity I converted them to black and white and corrected as much as I could. I then used the nural filter in the current PS to colorize and got surprisingly good results. I used the filter to colorize a couple of original b and w negatives and also got acceptable results that could be color corrected. It of course depends on what you plan to do with the photos. Probably not the way to go for an exhibition print.
See I don't have the current PS. It got very expensive since version 5, now it costs even more with the subscription base and AI BS.

How are you scanning?
Epson flatbed
 

mtjade2007

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I am using CS2 version too. In my opinion it is sufficient for manual balancing film scans. You will need to use manual level and/or manual curve tool to individually adjust each color (RGB) in highlight, middle tone and shadow individually. Unless your negative is faded beyond salvage the CS2 version is quite adequate. I have used it for a lot of expired films with some of them poorly processed as well. I am aware the results may not up to the standard of many here in this forum. But I have had fun with lots of decent images.

CS2 can be downloaded free from Adobe site. I am using it on Windows 10 Pro. My scanner is a Minolta Dimage Scan Multi-ii. This is a fantastic film scanner. It will give you a 6X7 image over 100 mega bytes. I loved it so much that I bought 3 of them. But one has its CCFL light failed waiting to be repaired.
 

albireo

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I am still using Photoshop CS2. I am looking for an action or plug in to scan old color negative. I spend a lot of time color correcting and still doesn't come right. I can't get rid of the purplish hue and if I try to compensate it will throw all the other color balance off.
Or is there an alternative cheaper software for reconstructing from old color negs?

With really badly faded colour negatives, I find that the ROC (reconstruction of colour) algorithm used via Nikonscan 4.0.3 on my Coolscan does wonders.

If you have a friend or a colleague using a Coolscan + Nikonscan, ask them to scan your negative for you.

I'm not sure if the ROC algorithm exists (or existed at some point in time) as a standalone bit of software, too. If so, I'd try to source a copy.
 

jeffreyg

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Do a search online there are some free colorize apps that you may be able to use as a work around. Changing from black and white to colour. I did in PS but you may get what you want going back and forth between apps
 
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MFstooges

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Do a search online there are some free colorize apps that you may be able to use as a work around. Changing from black and white to colour. I did in PS but you may get what you want going back and forth between apps

Name?
 

jeffreyg

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I have never used them but check out
Colourise.com and youcamonline editor.
 

jeffreyg

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As I had posted I do black and white and used PS for a friend. When I read your original post I decided to try the PS neural filter for myself. Here is a sample of an original black and white that I thought would be a test for PS. I used the neural filter and then modified to get as close as I remembered the colors. I didn't spend much time and certainly don't claim it to be exhibition quality but it did work 😀
Original black and white was on 120 Delta 400

bryce-bw.jpg


Colorized version

bryce-colorized.jpg


I think you can salvage your faded images at least improve them I don't know how they will print but they might work for the web.


 

warden

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I am still using Photoshop CS2. I am looking for an action or plug in to scan old color negative. I spend a lot of time color correcting and still doesn't come right. I can't get rid of the purplish hue and if I try to compensate it will throw all the other color balance off.
Or is there an alternative cheaper software for reconstructing from old color negs?

Can you post the image here? I’m sure somebody will take a stab at it with PS and give you some feedback or pointers.
 
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MFstooges

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I have never used them but check out
Colourise.com and youcamonline editor.

Thank you. The youcamonline worked for one sample and failed for another, it's a hit and miss. I will probably try it anyway.
No neural filter in PS CS2.
 

_T_

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I would rather have an accurate B&W version of my damaged photos than an imaginary color version produced by ai
 

250swb

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I can't say I've scanned a lot of old colour negatives but when I get a cast caused by bad degradation I use a tool in the Nik Collection's Color Efex called 'white neutraliser'. Find a 'white' tone in the image using the colour picker and it allows you to not only correct the whites to a neutral tone or but also correct the whole image or only part of it by removing say a magenta cast. I'm not saying it gets Kodachrome looking exactly like it was, but with a more neutral starting point it's easier to say warm the image back up by applying a warming or cooling filter (also in Color Efex).
 
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