why not just tape it to a window?
Rafal - not sure why you are against using different grades of paper, split filtering etc. These are tools, not crutches.
I think I understand why it is necessary to have the entire optical system in use, lens, bellows etc, so as to account for the flare, shutter behaviour, aperture etc, while performing the test. I wonder if having the tablet sandwiched to the film, as Nick and Chuck mentioned, would make a significant difference to the results.
very true, but i find contacting difficult to do. that said i once made my self an adaptor to fit an lftaking lensto my enlarger,which alloed me to use it's shutterand expose filmcontacts from 1/250s to 1s .it worked wellwhen i used it to make msks for unsharpening.You really should consider eliminating as many variables as possible. The idea is to obtain good data and then incorporate all the variables, determined individually, when interpreting the data. If you are testing for the film's characteristics, you need to separate it from the optical system, and that means contacting.
Here's a graph of it from Photographic Materials and Processes.
I was under the impression that leaf shutters accommodated this by "not" being as fast as their highest speeds say they are.
For example the 200th of a second speed setting might in actuality be 160th of a second real time to allow the sum of the bell-curve opening and closing over the full aperture... to be effectively 200th of a second.
i find it esier to printwhen y negatives are a bit on the soft side (n-1)and i compensate with a grade-3 paper as 'normal'
Rafal, you are on the right track,but, why not just tape it to a window and mask it with black paper or cardboard?I would like to try Ralph's testing procedure, described in the 2nd edition of Way Beyond Monochrome, pages 217-224. I am not sure what is the best/sensible/easy way to photograph a Stouffer transmission target for this test. I will be using my 4x5 camera, in what is likely to be a 1:1 scale, or close to it.
Ralf suggests using a slide duplicator (I don't have one), or placing the target on a light table. However he also suggests using the type of light that one normally uses for their photography. Most of my photography is landscape, so I suppose I should use daylight and not the CFL light of my light table. I guess I would need to construct a temporary light table from some milky plexi, and perhaps a reflective white sheet behind it, hoping for a cloudy day (well, in Ireland this one is pretty much guaranteed, it seems, except for today). The target would be placed on this plexi, and then I would have to shield the contraption, somehow, from any reflected light, so that it was functioning as a transmission tablet.
Is that a correct way to approach it? Could I simplify somehow? Is this what others have done, who have attempted his testing procedure? I'd be grateful for any suggestions.
Many thanks,
Rafal
Ralph,whoever wants to contzcr me directly, don't forget, i can also be reached on skype,under 'ralph lambrecht' or the email addreass below.
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