Photo formula "centabrom"S paper developer

joho

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hello to all, is there any info on this.??
Interested to fix a paper developer based on "centabrom" S

any formulas out there???????


Thanks
 

Don_ih

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I don't think you'll find a formula for it, since it's a Tetenal product. It's a soft-working developer, so you could try mixing up some selectol soft from available formulas.

Or this, which is Ansco 120,

The following formula is said to be very similar to the discontinued Kodak Selectol Soft.
Distilled water (50°C) ................ 750 ml
Metol ................................. 6.0 g
Sodium sulfite (anhy) ................. 25.0 g
Sodium carbonate (mono) ............... 37.0 g
Potassium bromide ..................... 0.5 g
Distilled water to make ............... 1.0 l
Dilute 1+1 or 1+2 for softer images.
 
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joho

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THANK YOU...!!! Don...
...One question distilled water makes a difference for the developer ???
 

Don_ih

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joho said:
distilled water makes a difference for the developer
Click to expand...

If your tap water is high in impurities, it may impact the developer. Many people use distilled water for developer - it's probably always a good idea. Kodak D76 has additives to make it handle impurities in tap water - but your own homemade developer probably won't (there are none in the above formula, for instance).
 
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joho

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So, one or two thoughts come to mind upon your reply Don,
what additives should be used ???
 

Don_ih

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edta? There are others - you'd have to look them up. I don't use any and should probably use distilled water (but I don't). You can get around using those additives if your water is decently pure.
 

koraks

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@joho, don't sweat it concerning the additives. Tap water will work just fine for a formula like this. You may get a little cloudiness/milkiness when mixing the solution, but that doesn't affect the prints or the working of the developer.

Don Heisz said:
edta?
Click to expand...

For instance, or something like hexametaphosphate. Probably even citrate would work. Try any of these at 1g/liter or so as a starting point. Or just leave them out and don't lose sleep over it.
 

Don_ih

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Additives may also act to prolong the life of the solution once mixed. Definitely, if you're just mixing a batch to make prints, you don't need to worry about that.
 

koraks

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With ascorbate-based developers, there's always the Fenton reaction. In formulas like the one proposed here and most other paper (and film) developers, let alone bleaches and fixers, the additives don't play much of a role in the storing properties in my experience. Sheer luck, I suppose.

Anyway, adding a suitable sequestering agent in a sensible amount won't hurt a bit of course. A bag of EDTA or hexametaphosphate isn't very costly, so for those who prefer to hedge against any risks, it's a cheap measure to take.
 
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joho

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this developer will be made for film !
And used most likely used in stock solution,[there will be a modifacation] bit more concentrated.
I looked up info for to use certain additives so no air-bubbles happen ....
 

koraks

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Doesn't matter; adding a sequestering agent will only make a cosmetic difference to the developer liquid. There's no relationship with air bubbles.
 

Don_ih

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I would not consider this formula to be a soft-working developer used for film undiluted. I can't see any reason to use it, actually.
 
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joho

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Don,
the developer Is a good [as a base] for large format films.When used at high ASA, PLUS it can be replenished with other developers as dektol -neofin blu-ect ,ect,...
I have 1,5 liter working for for all of 2020-2022.
I have been experimenting non-stop.
Just made freash Ansco 120 two liters and continues changes ...
 
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Don_ih

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joho said:
the developer Is a good [as a base] for large format films.
Click to expand...

I assume you mean the Centabrom S? The Ansco 120 formula I cited above is what I was talking about when I said

Don Heisz said:
I would not consider this formula to be a soft-working developer used for film undiluted. I can't see any reason to use it, actually.
Click to expand...
 
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joho

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Don, yes this formula here.

stock sol 1-3 water works great films 9x12- 10x12,5 800asa to 1600asa
it will give the neg. density to the high parts // it needs to be tamed to your taste. [time && temp]
That is why one can add also other developers or additives. Case in point at 1-6, add Dektol 1-4 sol.] neofin blu .........on..and on
 
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