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photo-flo for reticulation

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Tom Nutter

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A photo friend told me today that if you add photo flo to your developer, for BW rollfilm, you will get some crazy reticulation effects. Has anybody tried this?:rolleyes:
 
one can force reticulation by using a higher temp for your developer, around 110 degrees or so, followed by an immersion in cold water (as in ice cube cold), guarnateed reticulation every time. At least thats what I used to do in high school when I wanted that effect.
 
I just boil the negatives....

emulsion eventually starts to come off...you can warp the negative too

...but it looks great
 
Well, what I'm getting at here is that I have some Ilford 3200 in 120 and I'd like to develop it in a way that gives it as much grain and distress as possible... I guess I could underexpose then overdevelop then go back to high school, and pour boiling water on the film then go back to college and walk on the wet negs to create a little distress.

...is there a technique with this film that might be a little more controllable?
...andthe photoflo, just an urban myth?
 
I've accidentally reticulated Tri-X twice now by developing it in PMK and somehow putting it into too cold a fix or wash or photoflo. I think the hardening/tanning effect of the pyro or the emulsion-swelling effect of the alkali makes the emulsion more sensitive to temperature variations. I'd try as the folks above advised: develop it, heat it up, plunge it into icewater, fix it. See what happens.

Peter Gomena
 
I don't think Photo Flo in the developer will reticulate - a lot of people routinely use wetting agent in the developer to attain more even development. However, if you soak a fully processed and dried neg in developer for 30 seconds, then dry the neg - without rinsing or wiping - you'll get some really crazy, random crystalline textures on the neg.

Bob H

PS I accidentally discovered this as a result of my exceptionally careful processing regimen. :D:D:D
 
i had some students get some very strange "markings" on the film. more like snake skin. After a lot of research and questioning the prevailing theory was some "left over" photoflo that had adhered itself to the tank.

Don't know if that was really the reason, but it did happen at least twice, and we have a temperature controled water system so there was no way it was a heat issue.
 
Never noticed this with Ilford wetting agent certainly. If the photo-flo was at a vastly different temp then maybe but it would be the temp difference not the photoflo per se.

I had the experience of mistakenly turning on the hot tap to rinse a HP5+ film in a very dimly lit darkroom and not noticing for quite a few mins. Result was no damage whatsoever to the film. HP5+ must be a very tough film which is normally a good thing but if you were to experiment with hot water and if it was HP5+ it would have to be very hot water, based on my experience. Then there might just be a danger that it is an all or nothing at all experiment i.e nothing happens until suddenly the emulsion gives way suddenly and completely.

If it were me I'd try with negs I could go out and shoot again - certainly not ones I could not replicate easily.

pentaxuser
 
Myth. Photoflo cannot cause reticulation. Extreme temperature swings can. The effects are not controllable to any great extent.
 
Agreed that it is not the Photoflo itself that causes the reticulation. It is not a chemical reaction. Temperature swings cause the effect.

Peter Gomena
 
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