Photo equipment: Basics for getting started with DIY repairs

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Andreas Thaler

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As others I enjoy to report on my repair efforts here, but maybe someone would like to get into the topic?

The desire is there, but there is still a lack of information on how best to start, what tools are needed and how much it might cost?

That can be easily clarified.

But it is even more important to have the confidence to do it yourself!

An opened camera like this can be impressive with everything you don't yet know. Electronic components, cables, gears, screws, everything tiny and fragile.

2.jpg


But you don't have to take it all apart and put it back together again. You don't have to know how it works in detail either. The only important thing is to find the reason why something isn't working as it should.

And you have a good chance of doing that.

At least better chances than if you do nothing 😌

As a DIYer, you don't have to be able to do everything, you don't have to make a living from your hobby and are therefore not under pressure to succeed. That makes it easier 👍

In the following I would like to give you a few tips on how to get started with DIY repairs of photo equipment.

As always, questions and suggestions are very welcome 🙂



Equipment for getting started

IMG_7959.jpeg


To start, I suggest:
  • a broken device for practice that ideally corresponds to the one you want to repair later; any other photo device is also suitable, except for flash units and cameras with built-in flash (due to the risk of electric shock),
  • for older Japanese cameras: ideally JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screwdrivers and slotted screwdrivers. For the JIS screwdrivers, I work with sizes 0, 00 and 000. For slotted screws, my largest screwdriver has a blade width of 3 mm, Recommendations see below;
  • tweezers to be able to grip small components securely,
  • a magnifying glass (a 50mm lens in retro position also works well),
  • bright workplace lighting,
  • a clean flat surface to work on.
For the time being, it is not about solving a problem, but about opening and getting to know the practice device and whether you like it.

Mistakes are also meant to be made, also to get to know things, that happens all by itself 🙃
  • Slipping with the screwdriver and leaving scratches,
  • damaging sensitive components,
  • looking for small components that have fallen under the table,
  • mixing things up and installing them incorrectly,
  • losing your bearings.
The first experience with the topic of DIY is important, no matter what it looks like.

Then you have already taken the first - most important - step and can see whether you are still interested, whether it was fun and whether you are interested in further discoveries.


JIS screwdrivers for older Japanese photo devices

The JIS screwdrivers fit the Japanese cross-head screws in older Japanese photo devices and prevent the screw head from being overtightened and thus damaged.

I am a fan of the Japanese manufacturer Vessel and can recommend these screwdrivers:







The longer screwdrivers give you more torque, while the shorter ones give you more control for finer work.


Safety is a must

Although everything is very small with photo equipment and no heavy tools are used, you should always think about your safety.

It is important to protect your eyes, as you are usually close to your work and small components can suddenly jump off when you loosen them.

It is often small springs and locking rings that cause mischief and which you then find on the ground, far away from the take-off point - but not always 😉

I therefore always and without exception wear safety glasses over my prescription glasses.

IMG_7960.jpeg



Flight Captain on your own behalf

I always put my disclaimer at the end of repair reports and recommendations.

Also as a reminder that when repairing something you are always the flight captain and therefore also responsible for yourself. No matter what this or that expert advises you.

This of course also applies to this tutorial:

+++

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.


Books

There is surprisingly little literature on the subject of photo equipment repair.

For beginners, and also for later, I recommend two popular books by Thomas Tomosy.

They provide a complete introduction to repairing older devices (up to the end of the 1990s), and volume 2 includes more advanced techniques.

Both titles are out of print and cost a lot, but are available as Kindle versions at a reasonable price:

Camera Maintenance & Repair, Book 1: Fundamental Techniques: A Comprehensive, Fully Illustrated Guide https://a.co/d/fGWQl0S

Camera Maintenance & Repair, Book 2: Advanced Techniques: A Comprehensive, Fully Illustrated Guide (Camera Maintenance & Repair Series Vol.2) https://a.co/d/iOnH8Zo


Chemicals and soldering

3.jpg


Advanced work involves working with solvents such as isopropyl alcohol, petrol or acetone. You can use them to clean or dissolve adhesives.

These substances are flammable and should not be inhaled.

It is therefore important to handle them carefully.

Good ventilation is a prerequisite; I wear a breathing mask for longer work.

Soldering in photo equipment is just as advanced.

A popular topic in repair forums with as many instructions and recommendations as there are participants 😉

If you have no experience with soldering, it can take a while to get started until you have found your technique. That's what happened to me, and it was the biggest hurdle I had to overcome.

It's actually simple - unfortunately not at the beginning, because it's not just about technique alone, intuition also plays a role.

Soldering tips and solder are quite idiosyncratic, but you can learn to understand their peculiarities.

I can happily make a tutorial on this.


How do I start?

It's best to do first a short meditation on the training device.

How does the device work, what doesn't work, what could be the cause of it, do I have to open the device to find the error, could it also be a simple - and therefore one of the most common - cause?

This is where research on the Internet begins.

5.jpg


The chances that a photo device with the same error will be discussed in an article or video are good.

If you can't find anything about it, you're not only a flight captain, but also an investigator 😉

My first step would be to go to the repair forum here to ask questions.

If it stays quiet there, you go on a journey of discovery yourself.


Common causes of errors

can be problems with the power supply:
  • Exhausted batteries that no longer provide enough voltage for the device. It then doesn't work at all or shows unusual behavior.
  • Oxidized contacts in the battery compartment and on battery holders. Even very thin coatings can inhibit the flow of current or interrupt it completely.
  • Battery contacts corroded by battery acid, which unfortunately often occurs when batteries are forgotten in the device. The batteries leak and the battery acid eats away at the metal contacts over time and can also spread further into the interior of the device. Damage to the electronics is possible.
The best thing to do is to remove any oxidation from the contacts and then insert new batteries.

For cleaning contacts electronics cleaner on a cleaning stick is a good option for this. Or an eraser.

6.jpg


Corroded contacts are more difficult to treat because intensive cleaning is necessary to completely remove the battery acid residue.

For a way to clean corroded contacts (as an example of an extreme case) see



The mechanics, the electronics or both?

Once the power supply has been checked, you should check whether the problem could be mechanical, electronic or both.

This is no longer that easy, as it requires experience and the device usually has to be opened to check.

A component in the mechanics can jam or break (e.g. plastic gears after long use).

There can be contact problems with the electronics, often caused by oxidation, corrosion, moisture or dirt. Electronic components can also fail, but this is not the rule.

Photo devices in general - with the exception of flash units and motors - are low-power consumers, electronic components do not heat up to a great extent, which could be stressed or overloaded over time.


Damage caused by force

7.jpg


If there is obvious damage caused by a fall, impact or water, the cause of the problem is clear. But not yet the solution, as it depends on what was damaged and to what extent.

Unfortunately, there are no magic formulas.

It is best to research and use knowledge and experience in forums.

In Volume 2 by Thomas Tomosy you will find information and further advice on these topics (see links above).


Insights and spare parts

But you don't always have to go on a fault hunt.

Just opening a camera, disassembling it and studying the technology is interesting and provides insights.

4.jpg


If you do it properly and don't damage anything, the dissected camera remains as a prepared spare parts supplier.



From my point of view, that's everything you need to get started, plus a little preview.

Have fun and success!

It would be great if we could chat about projects and experiences here, ideally with photos.

And as already said:

+++

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
 
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MTGseattle

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Great thread.
I have a selection of Vessel screwdrivers in larger sizes for automotive work, and I am very happy with them. There are other manufacturers, but Vessel is widely distributed, and not too expensive.

For my very questionable soldering, I have a Weller WLC100 station. For camera repair (which to me requires more precision), I do not think I have the right iron.
 

4season

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I haven't tried this specific product myself, but this might be an interesting budget-priced pick for someone who may wish to work on the occasional camera, but who does not want to spend $$ for a Hakko FX951 soldering station:

https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/

No, it's not actually necessary to have a soldering iron equipped with CPU and OLED, much less one which can be hacked to play Doom! But I like that it uses newer-style tips with integrated temperature sensor and heating element. No power supply is included, but I think a sufficiently large (65 watt?) USB-C brick such as those supplied with recent MacBooks, or even a USB-PD power bank ought to work nicely.
 
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Andreas Thaler

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For my very questionable soldering, I have a Weller WLC100 station. For camera repair (which to me requires more precision), I do not think I have the right iron.

I work with a Velleman soldering station that is equipped with a soldering iron and a hot air nozzle.

The device is solid and reliable.

There are separate temperature controls for both applications, and the heat-up time for the soldering iron is short.

Interchangeable soldering tips are available.

At just over EUR 100/USD 106, I think it's a very good price/performance ratio.



 
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Andreas Thaler

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One important piece of equipment to add- a digital camera to take constant photos in disassembly.

Absolutely right!

I do my documentation for my reports with an iPhone 11 Pro Max.

The close-up quality is first-class and the images are quickly optimized on board, resized and posted.

I also write all my reports on the iPhone.
 

albada

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That's a good intro to tools needed and techniques for learning camera repair. Thanks for posting this.
 

Dan Daniel

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Oh, spanner wrench, pin wrench is missing. And clamp wrenches. Those little slots or pin holes, or evne more fun no leverage points at all, do have decent low-cost solutions.
 

dxqcanada

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What else could we advise or recommend to someone who is interested in DIY repairs?

 

Steven Lee

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Awesome thread. This needs to be moved to the Resources section or somewhere else to have it preserved for the future. @Andreas Thaler you should start a blog! We have too many youtubers now, and not enough awesome bloggers!
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Oh, spanner wrench, pin wrench is missing. And clamp wrenches. Those little slots or pin holes, or evne more fun no leverage points at all, do have decent low-cost solutions.

The spanner wrench is for advanced users who can handle frustration 😝

We should make a tutorial on it!
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Unique for older cameras, thanks!

I'm still waiting for the documentation on the focal plane shutter.
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Oh, spanner wrench, pin wrench is missing. And clamp wrenches. Those little slots or pin holes, or evne more fun no leverage points at all, do have decent low-cost solutions.

Could you recommend a source for clamp wrenches?

I wanted to get a set but couldn't find anything.
 

4season

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Could you recommend a source for clamp wrenches?

I wanted to get a set but couldn't find anything.

Except for specialized tool sets for working on specific cameras such as Leica rangefinders, I've had to either purchase from folks like "Nobbysparrow", or fabricate my own from aluminum or fiberglass. Could perhaps also 3D print from a semi-flexible material. Regular PLA fiber is hard and brittle, but there are more flexible variants.
 

Dan Daniel

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Could you recommend a source for clamp wrenches?

I wanted to get a set but couldn't find anything.
Not sure what you have available in Europe, but an Ebay/US search gets this, for example-


I've drawn up and made some from acrylic sheet (plexiglass/perspex) for other sizes. ABS or another plastic would be a better choice, but the acrylic took 5-10 uses before snapping. I'm loooking into 3-d printing some and have higher hopes than others that I can get usable parts. We'll see.
 

MTGseattle

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I also recommend hands-free magnification; one of the various articulating lamps with built-in magnification, or the very fashionable "opti-visor." I couldn't safely remove the water house cover stop screw from my recently acquired Goerz lens with my everyday glasses, which is a grim harbinger of things to come.


Thank you for the soldering recommendations. I need to dig mine out, but I think it only has the single size fixed tip which is definite limiting factor.

How about the little silicone parts trays for keeping all of the small bits organized and safe? I think many folks have their own dis-assembly strategies.
 

Alex Varas

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Except for specialized tool sets for working on specific cameras such as Leica rangefinders, I've had to either purchase from folks like "Nobbysparrow", or fabricate my own from aluminum or fiberglass. Could perhaps also 3D print from a semi-flexible material. Regular PLA fiber is hard and brittle, but there are more flexible variants.

+1 to nobbysparrow, excellent tools.
 
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