Andreas Thaler
Subscriber
As others I enjoy to report on my repair efforts here, but maybe someone would like to get into the topic?
The desire is there, but there is still a lack of information on how best to start, what tools are needed and how much it might cost?
That can be easily clarified.
But it is even more important to have the confidence to do it yourself!
An opened camera like this can be impressive with everything you don't yet know. Electronic components, cables, gears, screws, everything tiny and fragile.
But you don't have to take it all apart and put it back together again. You don't have to know how it works in detail either. The only important thing is to find the reason why something isn't working as it should.
And you have a good chance of doing that.
At least better chances than if you do nothing
As a DIYer, you don't have to be able to do everything, you don't have to make a living from your hobby and are therefore not under pressure to succeed. That makes it easier
In the following I would like to give you a few tips on how to get started with DIY repairs of photo equipment.
As always, questions and suggestions are very welcome
Equipment for getting started
To start, I suggest:
Mistakes are also meant to be made, also to get to know things, that happens all by itself
Then you have already taken the first - most important - step and can see whether you are still interested, whether it was fun and whether you are interested in further discoveries.
JIS screwdrivers for older Japanese photo devices
The JIS screwdrivers fit the Japanese cross-head screws in older Japanese photo devices and prevent the screw head from being overtightened and thus damaged.
I am a fan of the Japanese manufacturer Vessel and can recommend these screwdrivers:
vessel.co.jp
vessel.co.jp
vessel.co.jp
vessel.co.jp
vessel.co.jp
www.vesseltools.com
The longer screwdrivers give you more torque, while the shorter ones give you more control for finer work.
Safety is a must
Although everything is very small with photo equipment and no heavy tools are used, you should always think about your safety.
It is important to protect your eyes, as you are usually close to your work and small components can suddenly jump off when you loosen them.
It is often small springs and locking rings that cause mischief and which you then find on the ground, far away from the take-off point - but not always
I therefore always and without exception wear safety glasses over my prescription glasses.
Flight Captain on your own behalf
I always put my disclaimer at the end of repair reports and recommendations.
Also as a reminder that when repairing something you are always the flight captain and therefore also responsible for yourself. No matter what this or that expert advises you.
This of course also applies to this tutorial:
+++
All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
Books
There is surprisingly little literature on the subject of photo equipment repair.
For beginners, and also for later, I recommend two popular books by Thomas Tomosy.
They provide a complete introduction to repairing older devices (up to the end of the 1990s), and volume 2 includes more advanced techniques.
Both titles are out of print and cost a lot, but are available as Kindle versions at a reasonable price:
Camera Maintenance & Repair, Book 1: Fundamental Techniques: A Comprehensive, Fully Illustrated Guide https://a.co/d/fGWQl0S
Camera Maintenance & Repair, Book 2: Advanced Techniques: A Comprehensive, Fully Illustrated Guide (Camera Maintenance & Repair Series Vol.2) https://a.co/d/iOnH8Zo
Chemicals and soldering
Advanced work involves working with solvents such as isopropyl alcohol, petrol or acetone. You can use them to clean or dissolve adhesives.
These substances are flammable and should not be inhaled.
It is therefore important to handle them carefully.
Good ventilation is a prerequisite; I wear a breathing mask for longer work.
Soldering in photo equipment is just as advanced.
A popular topic in repair forums with as many instructions and recommendations as there are participants
If you have no experience with soldering, it can take a while to get started until you have found your technique. That's what happened to me, and it was the biggest hurdle I had to overcome.
It's actually simple - unfortunately not at the beginning, because it's not just about technique alone, intuition also plays a role.
Soldering tips and solder are quite idiosyncratic, but you can learn to understand their peculiarities.
I can happily make a tutorial on this.
How do I start?
It's best to do first a short meditation on the training device.
How does the device work, what doesn't work, what could be the cause of it, do I have to open the device to find the error, could it also be a simple - and therefore one of the most common - cause?
This is where research on the Internet begins.
The chances that a photo device with the same error will be discussed in an article or video are good.
If you can't find anything about it, you're not only a flight captain, but also an investigator
My first step would be to go to the repair forum here to ask questions.
If it stays quiet there, you go on a journey of discovery yourself.
Common causes of errors
can be problems with the power supply:
For cleaning contacts electronics cleaner on a cleaning stick is a good option for this. Or an eraser.
Corroded contacts are more difficult to treat because intensive cleaning is necessary to completely remove the battery acid residue.
For a way to clean corroded contacts (as an example of an extreme case) see
www.photrio.com
The mechanics, the electronics or both?
Once the power supply has been checked, you should check whether the problem could be mechanical, electronic or both.
This is no longer that easy, as it requires experience and the device usually has to be opened to check.
A component in the mechanics can jam or break (e.g. plastic gears after long use).
There can be contact problems with the electronics, often caused by oxidation, corrosion, moisture or dirt. Electronic components can also fail, but this is not the rule.
Photo devices in general - with the exception of flash units and motors - are low-power consumers, electronic components do not heat up to a great extent, which could be stressed or overloaded over time.
Damage caused by force
If there is obvious damage caused by a fall, impact or water, the cause of the problem is clear. But not yet the solution, as it depends on what was damaged and to what extent.
Unfortunately, there are no magic formulas.
It is best to research and use knowledge and experience in forums.
In Volume 2 by Thomas Tomosy you will find information and further advice on these topics (see links above).
Insights and spare parts
But you don't always have to go on a fault hunt.
Just opening a camera, disassembling it and studying the technology is interesting and provides insights.
If you do it properly and don't damage anything, the dissected camera remains as a prepared spare parts supplier.
From my point of view, that's everything you need to get started, plus a little preview.
Have fun and success!
It would be great if we could chat about projects and experiences here, ideally with photos.
And as already said:
+++
All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
The desire is there, but there is still a lack of information on how best to start, what tools are needed and how much it might cost?
That can be easily clarified.
But it is even more important to have the confidence to do it yourself!
An opened camera like this can be impressive with everything you don't yet know. Electronic components, cables, gears, screws, everything tiny and fragile.
But you don't have to take it all apart and put it back together again. You don't have to know how it works in detail either. The only important thing is to find the reason why something isn't working as it should.
And you have a good chance of doing that.
At least better chances than if you do nothing

As a DIYer, you don't have to be able to do everything, you don't have to make a living from your hobby and are therefore not under pressure to succeed. That makes it easier

In the following I would like to give you a few tips on how to get started with DIY repairs of photo equipment.
As always, questions and suggestions are very welcome

Equipment for getting started
To start, I suggest:
- a broken device for practice that ideally corresponds to the one you want to repair later; any other photo device is also suitable, except for flash units and cameras with built-in flash (due to the risk of electric shock),
- for older Japanese cameras: ideally JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screwdrivers and slotted screwdrivers. For the JIS screwdrivers, I work with sizes 0, 00 and 000. For slotted screws, my largest screwdriver has a blade width of 3 mm, Recommendations see below;
- tweezers to be able to grip small components securely,
- a magnifying glass (a 50mm lens in retro position also works well),
- bright workplace lighting,
- a clean flat surface to work on.
Mistakes are also meant to be made, also to get to know things, that happens all by itself

- Slipping with the screwdriver and leaving scratches,
- damaging sensitive components,
- looking for small components that have fallen under the table,
- mixing things up and installing them incorrectly,
- losing your bearings.
Then you have already taken the first - most important - step and can see whether you are still interested, whether it was fun and whether you are interested in further discoveries.
JIS screwdrivers for older Japanese photo devices
The JIS screwdrivers fit the Japanese cross-head screws in older Japanese photo devices and prevent the screw head from being overtightened and thus damaged.
I am a fan of the Japanese manufacturer Vessel and can recommend these screwdrivers:
3-Piece Micro Screwdriver Set No.9902E(9900 3 pc. set) | PRODUCTS INFORMATION | VESSEL CO., INC
full range of information on product groups ranging from tightening tools such as drivers, bit sockets and air tools to anti-static products in the factory
3-Piece Micro Screwdriver Set No.9903E(9900 3 pc. set) | PRODUCTS INFORMATION | VESSEL CO., INC
full range of information on product groups ranging from tightening tools such as drivers, bit sockets and air tools to anti-static products in the factory
Precision Screwdriver Set No.TD-56S(TD-51 6 pc. set) | PRODUCTS INFORMATION | VESSEL CO., INC
full range of information on product groups ranging from tightening tools such as drivers, bit sockets and air tools to anti-static products in the factory
Precision Screwdriver Set No.TD-56(TD-51 6 pc. set) | PRODUCTS INFORMATION | VESSEL CO., INC
full range of information on product groups ranging from tightening tools such as drivers, bit sockets and air tools to anti-static products in the factory
Precision Screwdriver Set No.TD-55(TD-51 6 pc. set) | PRODUCTS INFORMATION | VESSEL CO., INC
full range of information on product groups ranging from tightening tools such as drivers, bit sockets and air tools to anti-static products in the factory
JIS DRIVE
JDV Products, Inc. is VESSEL’s Exclusive USA Distributor for Air Nippers and Cutting Blades, and a direct importer of all Vessel items
The longer screwdrivers give you more torque, while the shorter ones give you more control for finer work.
Safety is a must
Although everything is very small with photo equipment and no heavy tools are used, you should always think about your safety.
It is important to protect your eyes, as you are usually close to your work and small components can suddenly jump off when you loosen them.
It is often small springs and locking rings that cause mischief and which you then find on the ground, far away from the take-off point - but not always

I therefore always and without exception wear safety glasses over my prescription glasses.
Flight Captain on your own behalf
I always put my disclaimer at the end of repair reports and recommendations.
Also as a reminder that when repairing something you are always the flight captain and therefore also responsible for yourself. No matter what this or that expert advises you.
This of course also applies to this tutorial:
+++
All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
Books
There is surprisingly little literature on the subject of photo equipment repair.
For beginners, and also for later, I recommend two popular books by Thomas Tomosy.
They provide a complete introduction to repairing older devices (up to the end of the 1990s), and volume 2 includes more advanced techniques.
Both titles are out of print and cost a lot, but are available as Kindle versions at a reasonable price:
Camera Maintenance & Repair, Book 1: Fundamental Techniques: A Comprehensive, Fully Illustrated Guide https://a.co/d/fGWQl0S
Camera Maintenance & Repair, Book 2: Advanced Techniques: A Comprehensive, Fully Illustrated Guide (Camera Maintenance & Repair Series Vol.2) https://a.co/d/iOnH8Zo
Chemicals and soldering
Advanced work involves working with solvents such as isopropyl alcohol, petrol or acetone. You can use them to clean or dissolve adhesives.
These substances are flammable and should not be inhaled.
It is therefore important to handle them carefully.
Good ventilation is a prerequisite; I wear a breathing mask for longer work.
Soldering in photo equipment is just as advanced.
A popular topic in repair forums with as many instructions and recommendations as there are participants

If you have no experience with soldering, it can take a while to get started until you have found your technique. That's what happened to me, and it was the biggest hurdle I had to overcome.
It's actually simple - unfortunately not at the beginning, because it's not just about technique alone, intuition also plays a role.
Soldering tips and solder are quite idiosyncratic, but you can learn to understand their peculiarities.
I can happily make a tutorial on this.
How do I start?
It's best to do first a short meditation on the training device.
How does the device work, what doesn't work, what could be the cause of it, do I have to open the device to find the error, could it also be a simple - and therefore one of the most common - cause?
This is where research on the Internet begins.
The chances that a photo device with the same error will be discussed in an article or video are good.
If you can't find anything about it, you're not only a flight captain, but also an investigator

My first step would be to go to the repair forum here to ask questions.
If it stays quiet there, you go on a journey of discovery yourself.
Common causes of errors
can be problems with the power supply:
- Exhausted batteries that no longer provide enough voltage for the device. It then doesn't work at all or shows unusual behavior.
- Oxidized contacts in the battery compartment and on battery holders. Even very thin coatings can inhibit the flow of current or interrupt it completely.
- Battery contacts corroded by battery acid, which unfortunately often occurs when batteries are forgotten in the device. The batteries leak and the battery acid eats away at the metal contacts over time and can also spread further into the interior of the device. Damage to the electronics is possible.
For cleaning contacts electronics cleaner on a cleaning stick is a good option for this. Or an eraser.
Corroded contacts are more difficult to treat because intensive cleaning is necessary to completely remove the battery acid residue.
For a way to clean corroded contacts (as an example of an extreme case) see

Nikon MD-12 Motor Drive renovated
A friend had asked me to look at his Nikon MD-12 Motor Drive. The Motor Drive for the Nikon FE(2) and FM(2) hasn't been available for a long time. A contact in the battery compartment was corroded but was poorly cleaned. I didn't say yes right away because I usually only work on my own stuff...

The mechanics, the electronics or both?
Once the power supply has been checked, you should check whether the problem could be mechanical, electronic or both.
This is no longer that easy, as it requires experience and the device usually has to be opened to check.
A component in the mechanics can jam or break (e.g. plastic gears after long use).
There can be contact problems with the electronics, often caused by oxidation, corrosion, moisture or dirt. Electronic components can also fail, but this is not the rule.
Photo devices in general - with the exception of flash units and motors - are low-power consumers, electronic components do not heat up to a great extent, which could be stressed or overloaded over time.
Damage caused by force
If there is obvious damage caused by a fall, impact or water, the cause of the problem is clear. But not yet the solution, as it depends on what was damaged and to what extent.
Unfortunately, there are no magic formulas.
It is best to research and use knowledge and experience in forums.
In Volume 2 by Thomas Tomosy you will find information and further advice on these topics (see links above).
Insights and spare parts
But you don't always have to go on a fault hunt.
Just opening a camera, disassembling it and studying the technology is interesting and provides insights.
If you do it properly and don't damage anything, the dissected camera remains as a prepared spare parts supplier.
From my point of view, that's everything you need to get started, plus a little preview.
Have fun and success!
It would be great if we could chat about projects and experiences here, ideally with photos.
And as already said:
+++
All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
Last edited: