Photo Booth direct positive super speed paper is available

However shipping triples the cost of the stuff for USA folks. Are there any others in the USA that want to try some of this stuff out? The plan is to buy a bigger roll of the paper which is ok to cut/handle in red light. The rolls are just over 1 meter in width. Is there an interest in this product? It is approx iso 100 ortho paper which is meant to be directly reversal processed--develop-bleach-re-expose-develop again. You've all seen what it looks like if you're old enough. Rolls are best to get since you can cut it under red light to any size you want. They will cut sheets but there are minimum quantities for this and groups all want different sizes. Check their website for technical details--this stuff is da bomb for instant gratification pics and for ULF experimentation--it's ISO 100!!!!. This brings ULF pics with affordable lighting to the masses who can build cardboard ULF cameras.

The more people that want in, the cheeper it gets for us all.

It would be nice if ilford or kodak would make such a product to avoid the excessive shipping expense.

So you're calling for interest to gauge pricing for US residents?

Have you a link to the original product / supplier ?

Slavich in Russia.

But a paper that needs reversal processing is no direct-positive paper.

unfortunately this link is for color paper, but it is still fun
the movie is mostexcellent
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Reading the data sheet from the link provided above, it is most informative, for those of us who've been curious as to how photo booth paper and chemistry work. Here's some copy/pasted data from the weblink provided above:

Chemical-Photographic processing conditions of the photographic paper:
Developing solution
1. Sodium sulphite (anhydrous) - 70,5 g
2. Phenidone - 0,4
3. Hydroquinone - 32,5 g
4. Potassium bromide - 6,0 g
5. Sodium hydroxide - 40,0 g
6. Distilled water - up to 1 liter
Bleaching solution
1. Potassium dichromate – 160,0 g
2. Sulphuric acid – 320,0 g
3. Distilled water - up to 1 liter
Clarifying solution
1. Sodium sulphite (anhydrous) - 100,0 g
2. Distilled water - up to 1 liter
Reducing solution № 1
1. Thiocarbamide - 10,0 g
2. Potassium hydroxide - 60,0 g
3. Distilled water - up to 1 liter
Reducing solution № 2
1. Sodium sulphide 9-hydrous - 3,2 g
2. Distilled water - up to 1 liter

And here's their recommended processing regimen, using the above chemistries, along with time (in seconds) and temperature data (in degrees celsius):
Development 24 30
Washing 24 20
Bleaching 24 30
Washing 12 20
Clarification 24 30
Washing 12 20
Reduction 12 30
Washing 24 20

This confirms what I observed at a photobooth in downtown Flagstaff, Arizona, several years ago, when their chemical photo booth was partially disassembled while being serviced. There appeared to be a carousel with eight chemical pots, and the strip of paper was dunked in each pot for about the times listed in the data sheet, then the carousel would turn one position and the process would repeat.

Given that their data sheet gives all the constituent chemicals for making up each solution, it should be straight forward to duplicate this in the context of mixing one's own solutions. As for the particular paper used in the photo booths, it does not appear to be a reversal paper in the sense of having a reversing emulsion like Harman's DPP, so perhaps a graded fiber paper of some other brand might work.

~Joe

The reducing part in that listing is ambiguous.

There's a whole thread somewhere here on reversing standard enlarger paper and flashing. The advantage I see with this paper is that's its ISO100, not ISO6 like enlarger paper.

I wonder if people realise that the stock rolls they supply, according to their pricelist on the site I gave a link to, are only a little over 4cm wide ...

Presumably they will supply wider to order, though.

You did not realize that they say so.

I didn't realise that who said what ?

That Slavich state that they offer custom conversions of this paper. And the OP seemingly refers to a max. width of about 1m.

ah OK

Yes, they will cut sheets, but each size has a minimum order, so the best is to buy it in the big rolls of just over 1 meter and split it up. So we have lots and lots of comments but no interest in this product? It seems to me that this is the ideal product for ultra large format---almost instant results and fast. If enough interest is generated, they may see that it is profitable to sell it to distributers who can minimize the shipping with bulk orders.

johnielvis

i understand it is photo booth paper, high iso, but can it be processed in
regular, standard paper developer? or does it require the specialized chemistry
needed in a photo booth? ... also, is this panchro paper so it isn't safe with a .. safelight?
or like slavich paper ( yellow light? ) or something else completely.
while i am always interested in photo paper for paper negatives, if it requires the slew of chemicals
listed above in this thread, i wouldn't want to deal ... i am doing my best to minimize
my chemistry exposure ( use caffenol ) ...

john

All you need is standard reversal process chemicals: A standard paper developer and a bleach is all you need. Develop (in red light--this is ortho paper), wash the developer away in water, Bleach (dichromate/sulfuric acid) till image is gone, turn on regular lights, wash in water till all traces of bleach is gone, then put it back in the developer till nothing more developes and you got a direct positive image on the paper. Fixing is not necessary since all of the silver will have been developed at the end of the process.

Wow--nobody into it at all. Well, that's why it's not available to you then.

I think the Ilford direct-positive product is more convenient and more readily available for most people, and this is why there is not so much interest in the high-speed reversible paper.

johnielvis said:

All you need is standard reversal process chemicals: A standard paper developer and a bleach is all you need. Develop (in red light--this is ortho paper), wash the developer away in water, Bleach (dichromate/sulfuric acid) till image is gone, turn on regular lights, wash in water till all traces of bleach is gone, then put it back in the developer till nothing more developes and you got a direct positive image on the paper. Fixing is not necessary since all of the silver will have been developed at the end of the process.

Click to expand...

jonielvis:

thanks for the information on the reversal process ... !
i had a feeling it required more than i can deliver.

while i am extremely interest in a fast paper for
in camera negatives ( opps i mean positives )
i have whittled down my chemistry to just a few
items and would rather not have to deal with bleaches
dichromate and sulphuric acid and whatnot.

thanks again
john

Well, if you only want to do positive/negative process, then shoot it as a paper negative--you'll probably get a speed increase out of it too. Unfortunately, you'll never know unless you try.

johnielvis said:

Well, if you only want to do positive/negative process, then shoot it as a paper negative--you'll probably get a speed increase out of it too. Unfortunately, you'll never know unless you try.

Click to expand...

i can appreciate that JE, but my interest hasn't overridden my diswant for nasty chemistry ...
im sure it isn't as nasty as other things, but its nasty enough that i would rather not deal
( deal with using it, or disposing it ) ... how do you dispose of your dichromate bleach ? its pretty toxic stuff ..

there is no nasty chemistry if you do it as a negative process--you just develop it like regular paper.

you can take regular paper and use the same "nasty" chemicals to make direct reversals too--nothing magic about the paper--you just get very slow speed with regular paper.

You can take regular film such as fp4 and make direct positive transparencies out of it by adding the bleach step--nothing magical about the film-its a standard negative film.

OH--dichromate bleach--just mix with sodium sulfite or even the developer and it changes from the "dangerous" valence to the safe valence--the silver content you can precipitate by addingtable salt if you don't want silver going down the drain.

the photobooth paper can be used to make paper negatives using the same familiar chemicals you have.

johnielvis said:

there is no nasty chemistry if you do it as a negative process--you just develop it like regular paper.

Click to expand...

sorry for my confusion
i was under the impression it couldn't be made into a negative
and it had to be processed with the bleach step ...

unfortunately, i have a feeling that this paper will cost more than my budget will allow
(maybe not ? )

do you have a price for a few hundred sheet boxes of 7x11, 8x10 and 4x5 ?
i don't think i would be able to afford a large part of a giant roll...
do you have any idea how well this paper ages, FB or rc ?

thanks !
john