gainer
Subscriber
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2002
- Messages
- 3,699
Now what do you do with a contrast index of 1.2? Somewhere around 0.6 is normal in my darkroom. If you reckon film speed by density above B+F, it varies with C.I. but if you reckon it by the point where local contrast gives usable shadow detail you get less change with contrast. I do not usually mention film speed because I do not have the apparatus to be sure I know what I'm talking about. I set my exposure meter according to "box speed" when I make my test exposures.
The difference between 400 and 640 is about 2/3 stop. Acceptable manufacturing tolerance is 1/3 stop give or take. The box speed is supposed to be the nearest 1/3 stop to the actual speed. What do we argue about? I went through all this years ago because I was taking pictures on stage at orcheatra rehearsals and wanted the max. I found more effect of meterings than of any other source of variance in the results, and I tried just about every highly touted speed developer on the market. I finally settled on my own concoction of phenidone, hydroquinone and sulfite and setting the on-stage exposure at 1/60 and 2.8.
The digital age has taught me a lot about shadow detail. I have some negatives I cannot print any other way. They are so thin that the only way you see the image is by glancing reflected light as a positive. You all have seen such disasters, I'm sure. I know the shadow detail is there because my scanner told me so. As far as I know, no one makes grade 10 paper, but my scanner and software make it aout of typing paper. Don't get me wrong. I'm not a heretic. It's only for those pictures I must have that I resort to such reprehensible shenanigans.
Some of those thin negs have been rescued by intensification through bleaching and redeveloping in a pyro developer. The silver image is restored and a stain image is added to it.
I wander as I wonder.
The difference between 400 and 640 is about 2/3 stop. Acceptable manufacturing tolerance is 1/3 stop give or take. The box speed is supposed to be the nearest 1/3 stop to the actual speed. What do we argue about? I went through all this years ago because I was taking pictures on stage at orcheatra rehearsals and wanted the max. I found more effect of meterings than of any other source of variance in the results, and I tried just about every highly touted speed developer on the market. I finally settled on my own concoction of phenidone, hydroquinone and sulfite and setting the on-stage exposure at 1/60 and 2.8.
The digital age has taught me a lot about shadow detail. I have some negatives I cannot print any other way. They are so thin that the only way you see the image is by glancing reflected light as a positive. You all have seen such disasters, I'm sure. I know the shadow detail is there because my scanner told me so. As far as I know, no one makes grade 10 paper, but my scanner and software make it aout of typing paper. Don't get me wrong. I'm not a heretic. It's only for those pictures I must have that I resort to such reprehensible shenanigans.
Some of those thin negs have been rescued by intensification through bleaching and redeveloping in a pyro developer. The silver image is restored and a stain image is added to it.
I wander as I wonder.