Personal ISO setting combined with Exposure compensation setting

[silvercloud2323]

Hello everyone,

I often read to overexpose the film light, by overriding the film ISO and choosing to overexpose 1 stop( a film of iso400 to iso 200). Thats for the films ISO.

But then I still can use the exposure compensation dial. What would be an example to use it?? I would suggest for detail in shadows, zone 3, to underexpose and compensate here two stops...?
What happens if i use these 2 dials combined ( personal iso and exposure compensation dial). How do they relate to each other? Please give some examples.

Thank you.

 

[MattKing]

I think you mean increase exposure.
Over-exposing is an error, not an intentional choice.
You arrive at a personal Exposure Index ("EI") that suits the majority of your work and needs, given your approach to metering and your preferences with respect to any compromises you tend to make between shadow detail and highlight rendition. Then you use that EI when you set your ISO dial.
You can then use the exposure compensation dial to respond to metering situations. If the area you are metering from would best be rendered in a print one Zone darker than Zone V, you set the exposure compensation to -1.
If the area you are metering from would best be rendered in a print two Zones lighter than Zone V, you set the exposure compensation to +2.

 

[silvercloud2323]

I think you mean increase exposure.
Over-exposing is an error, not an intentional choice.
You arrive at a personal Exposure Index ("EI") that suits the majority of your work and needs, given your approach to metering and your preferences with respect to any compromises you tend to make between shadow detail and highlight rendition. Then you use that EI when you set your ISO dial.
You can then use the exposure compensation dial to respond to metering situations. If the area you are metering from would best be rendered in a print one Zone darker than Zone V, you set the exposure compensation to -1.
If the area you are metering from would best be rendered in a print two Zones lighter than Zone V, you set the exposure compensation to +2.

Thanks Mattking,

For your clear explanation.
What i meant in my post was that i read often to 'overexpose film 1 stop and underdevelop' the film. To get proper exposure in the blacks for detail there. Thats what i meant with overexposing.
What do you mean by Overexposing is an error?

 

[MattKing]

What do you mean by Overexposing is an error?

That term - over-exposure- actually refers to incorrect exposure. It means making an exposure mistake!
Speaking in terms of slide/transparency/positive films, an over-exposed slide is too light.
The term that should be used is increasing the exposure. Increasing the exposure is what you do to get the correct exposure, when the metered exposure would otherwise give you a slide that is too dark.
When it comes to negative film, in some cases where the scene is very high in contrast and has a wide subject luminance range (very bright highlights and very dark shadows), it can be difficult to get a good result. One solution to that problem that people sometimes use is to meter the scene, then increase the exposure, which lightens the shadows. They then combine that with reducing the development, which tends to darken slightly the too bright highlights. When you choose that solution, it means accepting some compromises as well, particularly with how the mid-tones look afterwards.

 

[gone]

A lot will depend on which developer you use w/ which films. I can shoot Tri-X at EI 100 to 800 w/ very little change in the development times. W/ Foma 400, I need to stay around 200-400, at least in my developers.

As a general rule, a lot of B&W films seem to do better at around half their printed EI, but not all of them. Like most of us, you'll just have to try different things to get to the look you prefer. Even the way you agitate the film during development can make a difference

 

[Paul Howell]

Once you have determined your E.I or personal ISO the only reason to change your exposure is to compensate for a reading that fall outside the scene brightness range of a given film and developer or to change the exposure to capture a visualized zone in a given scene. In the world of zone that's called expansion or contraction. Let's say that you are looking a scene with a white house, there is a large shade tree, it is late afternoon. You metered the shadows of the house and tree and decided you want those shadows to fall in zone III, you then meter the house, it falls in zone VI, but you want it fall in zone VII, so you expose for zone III then develop by expanding your development to what AA called +1. But by expanding your Zone VI to VII you have pulled all the other elements in your scene up by a stop as well including your sky value and may have to adjust in printing or in post if you are scanning. Remember this works best with sheet film as every sheet can be developed individually. When I shoot roll film I use may camera's spot meter function to meter the shadows for zone III then develop the roll for zone VII and fix while printing. When shooting in this manner in spot meter mode I do use the exposure compensation dial by adjusting to -2, the spot meter is reading zone V, the camera will adjust to zone III so I don't need to figure out the exposure for each frame.

 

[silvercloud2323]

A lot will depend on which developer you use w/ which films. I can shoot Tri-X at EI 100 to 800 w/ very little change in the development times. W/ Foma 400, I need to stay around 200-400, at least in my developers.

As a general rule, a lot of B&W films seem to do better at around half their printed EI, but not all of them. Like most of us, you'll just have to try different things to get to the look you prefer. Even the way you agitate the film during development can make a difference

A lot will depend on which developer you use w/ which films. I can shoot Tri-X at EI 100 to 800 w/ very little change in the development times. W/ Foma 400, I need to stay around 200-400, at least in my developers.

As a general rule, a lot of B&W films seem to do better at around half their printed EI, but not all of them. Like most of us, you'll just have to try different things to get to the look you prefer. Even the way you agitate the film during development can make a difference

Thank you so much

 

[wiltw]

If you used box ISO, and in shooting a bride in white gown in a snow-filled scene you meter the scene then up the meter reading by +1.5EV (to make sure her white gown is white and not grayish)

...when you use your personal ISO, and in shooting a bride in white gown in a snow-filled scene you meter the scene and you still up the meter reading by +1.5EV (to make sure her white gown is white and not grayish)!

 

[busrider]

Yup that’s right op. You set the iso then you either work the dial or do it on your own. Over exposure extra light whatever. I always have said over exposure I’m not in any sort of perfect grammar contest just perfect picture contest.