or because, as in the case of heptavalent manganese, while they are indeed sufficiently active, they are so unstable in solution that they decompose after a short time and deposit manganese dioxide on the tank walls, in the hoses, on all equipment components and on the belts.
Later edit: If you look at the full text of the patent, or better, the image of the patent, you will see the results of tests that Agfa carried out with various formulae on developed APX100. The formula, time and final density are given.
Patent 6,350,563 also gives quite complete details of a process (need not be the process) for 'A commercially available black-and-white reversal film, e.g. that of film speed 200 supplied by Agfa-Gevaert AG'. While one wouldn't want to copy these, there is useful background information.
Jorge said:Ok, last bit of news before going to bed, it seems thiourea is a good chemical fogging agent to avoid having to re expose film for direct positive results.
Jorge said:I have to brush up on my electrochemistry to see why this is, I am sure I can figure out a good alternative. We will see but this reversal stuff does not seem to be that hard.
Helen B said:Tin (II) Chloride is listed in the MSDS for the E-6 reversal bath, with a propionic acid - sodium propionate buffer. I've also seen dimethylamine borane referred to, but that's not nice stuff either.
E-4 used tertiary butylamine borane (TBAB, Kodak reversal agent RA-1)
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/cis111/cis111.pdf
Dead Link Removed.
Also unpleasant stuff.
In the kits and packaged chemicals, these are present in tiny amounts.
According to my notes, Ron Spiers uses the following fogging agent:
Stock solution:
Potassium Borohydride (KBH4) 0.1 g
Sodium Hydroxide 10 g
Cold Water to make 100 ml
http://www.state.nj.us/health/eoh/rtkweb/1558.pdf
The working solution contains 12 ml of stock per litre. Mix immediately before use, immerse the film in it for one minute, then discard the working solution. Follow by the developer of your choice. There will be a reference on the web, I've just run out of time... more later?
Best,
Helen
Jorge said:Are you sure it is borohydride Helen? If I recall correctly, borohydrides catch fire when mixed with water. Seems none of the choices are really safe for a home darkroom.
Jordan said:Jorge, I'm not certain of this, but it's likely that the Kodak kit uses dithionite or something like it. Tin chloride is used in home E6 kits IIRC. Thiourea is probably the least offensive way of making the positive, aside from re-exposure and re-development, though -- it's toxic but only small quantities are required.
Some borohydrides are probably more reactive than others. Lithium borohydride will reduce esters of relatively active carboxylic acids while sodium borohydride will not. I would expect potassium borohydride to be even less reactive. This is solely a polarizing effect of the metal ion. Borohydrides will definitely react with acidic solutions of water but as I mentioned, in base it is fine. I have used it in (IIRC) a water-dioxane mixture. Boranes (neutral gases) are probably more water-sensitive though.
Kodak Fogging Developer FD-70
Part A: Sodium dithionite, 90%........ 5.0 g
Part B: Water ..... 900 ml
Kodalk Balanced Alkali ..... 10.0 g
2-Thiobarbituric acid ..... 0.5 g
Water to make ..... 1.0 l
Dissolve the 5 g of part A into one liter of part B not more than 2 hr before use. Discard after one use.
It needs either light or the thiobarbituric acid. If you expose the film after bleaching out the negative image, you can use any developer that you might use on paper. If you want a solution that saves the trouble of exposing, add a little bit of the barbituric acid to a solution of Super Iron Out.gainer said:The dithionite may be expensive, but Super Iron Out is not. It contains sodium hydrosulfite (dithionite) and sodium carbonate. I think it will reduce the haliide out of the silver without the other stuff. I'll try it again to find out. any piece of exposed or unexposed film should tell the story.
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