Pentax 67II question

jaehoppa · Dec 9, 2016

Hi guys,
my first post on the forum (I think).
I recently acquired a Pentax 67II with a couple lenses and I wanted to get some things clarified before I really start using it.

This is pretty much my first film camera. I've only shot 5 rolls thru Contax G2 and that's it.

1. I've read about the issue with older Pentax 6x7 bodies where if you remove the prism while a lens is attached you can break the chain. Does this apply to the 67II body?

2. Can the self-timer be used in conjunction with mirror lock up?

3. Is it ok to wind and fire the shutter without a film inside?

4. Is it bad to leave the lever cocked? Should I only cock it just before shooting? And should I always turn the lever all the way?

I think that's all for now.
Thanks in advance!

shutterfinger · Dec 9, 2016

Here is a instruction manual for your camera if you need one. http://www.cameramanuals.org/pentax_pdf/pentax_67_ii.pdf
If you unroll film in room light or sunlight before processing it it will effectively ruin it.
If you drop your camera from 10 feet onto a solid surface it will damage it.
A drop from 3 feet may not, depends on what part of the camera it lands on.

DREW WILEY · Dec 9, 2016

They're remarkably tough, and my oldest P67 body has successfully survived a number of fender benders over the 40-year period I've had it, though
I would never intentionally drop it. I've never had a problem with the chain, just stories about it. If you cock the lever without shooting, there is a way to lock it until you wish, though leaving a camera in this state too long is probably stressful to something or other. You'll have to read your manual about shooting without film inside a 67II. I have bodies from the previous MLU series, where you have to slightly open the back, then partially rotate the counter dial with your thumb, then reclose the back while your thumb is still there, if you want to fool the camera into thinking
film is in it and activate the shutter. I do that when wishing to air-clean clear through the camera from the front without a lens mounted, yet the mirror out of the way in the time exposure mode. Don't know about self-timing with the II.

John Koehrer · Dec 9, 2016

*This is from an often faulty memory.
Check the 2nd paragraph 1st.

I'm not sure the camera will work properly until the counter is on 1.
The lever moves but until there's film on the take up spool it doesn't know
to count or when to stop.

If you want to practice you need to sacrifice a roll.
Try it unloaded first, you won't hurt anything.

Poisson Du Jour · Dec 9, 2016

jaehoppa said:
Hi guys,
my first post on the forum (I think).
I recently acquired a Pentax 67II with a couple lenses and I wanted to get some things clarified before I really start using it.

This is pretty much my first film camera. I've only shot 5 rolls thru Contax G2 and that's it.

I think that's all for now.
Thanks in advance!

*** There are big differences between the 67II and the 6x7 / 67 cameras before it! Here are some detailed explanations.

1. I've read about the issue with older Pentax 6x7 bodies where if you remove the prism while a lens is attached you can break the chain. Does this apply to the 67II body?
*** The reality is that the lens aperture must be moved back and forth quite a few times in order to stress the uncoupled chain. Because of the involved disassembly and fiddly nature of repair (and necessary recalibration of the lens mount), a broken chain is very much something that is best avoided as far as possible. Also, this issue applies only to the 1960s vintage Pentax 6x7 and to a lesser degree, the 1990s updated Pentax 67 body (this version has a more robust chain and modified engagement mechanism).

2. Can the self-timer be used in conjunction with mirror lock up?
*** It should be possible, unless there are published exceptions where it is not e.g. with certain leaf-shutter lenses v.i.z., the 165mm f4 LS cannot be used with MLU, but the 90mm leaf shutter lens can. Unlike the 67II, the Pentax 6x7 and 67 bodies do not have a self-timer (but an accessory mechanical timer can be fitted to the shutter release to affect such a function).

3. Is it ok to wind and fire the shutter without a film inside?
*** The first question is "Why?"
Dry-firing is not possible with the Pentax 6x7 or later 67 bodies without a specific method being employed by 'tricking' the film wind-on (a small Pentax 'key' facilitates this). This is generally only used to check shutter integrity/firing, and the winding mechanism. You may need to consult your camera's instructions with regard to dry-firing of the 67II.

4. Is it bad to leave the lever cocked? Should I only cock it just before shooting? And should I always turn the lever all the way?
*** With the 67II, you can use whatever method suits you. Incomplete full wind-on may not cock the shutter, and also result in overlapped frames. With the 6x7 and 67 cameras, a full wind-on arc must be completed to effect shutter cocking.

With the earlier 6x7 / 67 cameras, two problems are known to occur over extended periods of [shutter cocked] inactivity (and which are documented in the user manual): 1., shutter speeds can become inaccurate (where the shutter speed dial is left on any speed other than B or X) and 2., the shutter can also become inaccurate in its travel (incomplete horizontal travel/frame overlaps). You should be aware that the Pentax 67II has none of these idiosyncracies; it is a virtual re-design of the earlier cameras incorporating updated metering, shutter, winding drive and electronics. If there is any problem at all with the 67II, it is to do with the LCD display fading over time or displaying incomplete information.

MLU on all of the Pentax 67 cameras is exceptionally useful when it is engaged and a few seconds later is followed by the shutter being fired (use a long cable release, not a short one), as this spreads the potential for mirror/shutter vibration out with dramatically improved results — you are virtually guaranteed a sharp image! With longer lenses, and I have found this true with my 165mm LS lens, MLU and weighted bracing of the tripod and firing works more effectively. Even very small vibrations can completely ruin the high quality optical performance of all SMC-P lenses.

Alan9940 · Dec 9, 2016

FWIW, I have both the later version Pentax 67 and the newer P67 II and I've always wound-on the film (ie, cocked the shutter) just before taking a picture. A couple of things you didn't ask, but IMO are noteworthy to properly using this camera: 1) use a very sturdy tripod; especially if you don't lock up the mirror, which leads to 2) for absolute sharpness and to gain everything the P67 lenses have to offer, lock up the mirror whenever possible. Of course, both of these comments depend on the type of shooting you plan to do with your P67.

Have fun! It's a great camera!!

jaehoppa · Dec 9, 2016

Poisson Du Jour said:
*** There are big differences between the 67II and the 6x7 / 67 cameras before it! Here are some detailed explanations.

3. Is it ok to wind and fire the shutter without a film inside?
*** The first question is "Why?"
Dry-firing is not possible with the Pentax 6x7 or later 67 bodies without a specific method being employed by 'tricking' the film wind-on (a small Pentax 'key' facilitates this). This is generally only used to check shutter integrity/firing, and the winding mechanism. You may need to consult your camera's instructions with regard to dry-firing of the 67II.

Thanks for all the answers.
The camera let's me dry fire without any procedures. That's why I was asking if it is ok to keep doing it.
I only did it to test the camera out but it's becoming addicting lol.

jaehoppa · Dec 9, 2016

Alan9940 said:
FWIW, I have both the later version Pentax 67 and the newer P67 II and I've always wound-on the film (ie, cocked the shutter) just before taking a picture. A couple of things you didn't ask, but IMO are noteworthy to properly using this camera: 1) use a very sturdy tripod; especially if you don't lock up the mirror, which leads to 2) for absolute sharpness and to gain everything the P67 lenses have to offer, lock up the mirror whenever possible. Of course, both of these comments depend on the type of shooting you plan to do with your P67.

Have fun! It's a great camera!!

I'm gonna be using it mostly hand held. Hopefully it will be ok. Thanks for the tips.

Alan9940 · Dec 9, 2016

jaehoppa said:
I'm gonna be using it mostly hand held. Hopefully it will be ok. Thanks for the tips.

In that case, I'd try to keep your shutter speed at 2x the focal length of the lens used.

FujiLove · Dec 14, 2016

I've taken acceptable shots at 1/15 handheld using the WLF. I focus, then hold the camera tight against the straps, Rolleiflex style. Obviously, you don't end up with perfectly sharp images, but they still look great enlarged to 12 X 16.

jaehoppa · Dec 17, 2016

good to know guys.

do you think it's necessary or it makes any difference to use mirror lock up for handheld portrait shots during bright daylight? mostly at wide apertures.

MattKing · Dec 17, 2016

Mirror lock up will make no practical difference to resolution if you are shooting hand held.
Mirror lock up will make a slight reduction in noise, if that matters to you (such as for photographs taken during the ceremony at a church wedding).

Poisson Du Jour · Dec 17, 2016

MLU is not so much an issue with the modernised 67II; it was put there for a good reason on the loud 6x7 and 67 bodies, and the technique for employing it was effective when done correctly. That means tripod-based work, not hand-held.

jaehoppa · Dec 18, 2016

MattKing said:
Mirror lock up will make no practical difference to resolution if you are shooting hand held.
Mirror lock up will make a slight reduction in noise, if that matters to you (such as for photographs taken during the ceremony at a church wedding).

Poisson Du Jour said:
MLU is not so much an issue with the modernised 67II; it was put there for a good reason on the loud 6x7 and 67 bodies, and the technique for employing it was effective when done correctly. That means tripod-based work, not hand-held.

thanks for the reply guys. very helpful!

jaehoppa · Dec 18, 2016

I will be traveling to Asia in March and plan to take the Pentax along with a mirrorless camera (like Fuji X-T2).

Will Gitzo GT1545T traveler tripod be able to handle the weight of the Pentax 67ii and the 105 or 75mm lenses?

I do have a Gitzo 2 series traveler with Markins Q3 but I want to minimize the weight as much as possible so I'm thinking of getting a 1 series traveler.

I will be using the tripod mainly with a mirrorless camera but would like to use it with the Pentax 67ii occasionally to take selfies with my girlfriend. Will not be doing any long exposures with the Pentax.

Do you think Gitzo GT1545T and a smaller ballhead will be good enough to support the Pentax?

Lastly, where can I purchase a cable shutter release for the 67? Are they universal? I've never used one before.

Thanks again!

Poisson Du Jour · Dec 18, 2016

jaehoppa said:
I will be traveling to Asia in March and plan to take the Pentax along with a mirrorless camera (like Fuji X-T2).

Will Gitzo GT1545T traveler tripod be able to handle the weight of the Pentax 67ii and the 105 or 75mm lenses?

I do have a Gitzo 2 series traveler with Markins Q3 but I want to minimize the weight as much as possible so I'm thinking of getting a 1 series traveler.

I will be using the tripod mainly with a mirrorless camera but would like to use it with the Pentax 67ii occasionally to take selfies with my girlfriend. Will not be doing any long exposures with the Pentax.

Do you think Gitzo GT1545T and a smaller ballhead will be good enough to support the Pentax?

Lastly, where can I purchase a cable shutter release for the 67? Are they universal? I've never used one before.

Thanks again!

The 67II is still a big camera (with either 105 and 75 lenses) in want of a large, stable baseplate and a stable tripod. Granted, it is not such a menace as the earth-shaking, ear-banging 6x7 and 67 brutes before it (the more noise these cameras make, the more effective they are in scattering the stickybeaks gathered around me!!), but you are still dealing with a large camera and the effects of vibration and lack of stability when using light-duty tripods need to be considered. And you have got plenty time to consider!

A Google search of the GT1545T leaves me a bit uncertain. I have seen (in my dealer's display) Gitzo's newly released carbon fibre Traveller tripods with a load capacity of 12kg (and an eye-watering pricetag of $1,750...). Are these the one and same thing?? None of the Pentax 67s weigh in at an overly-generous 12 kilos of course, but I remain unsure how stable the tripod is without actually trying one out with the camera I will use on it. And taking your camera long to a shop is the best way to settle the debate! My own P67 is 3.4kg with the 75mm f2.8AL lens, matched to a medium-sized Manfrotto CF tripod and magnesium head with 3-axis levels designed to hold it firm in any position (the 67 — not sure if yours has too — has an anti-rotation pin on the base that helps prevent tripod plate creep). Another thing: a tiny baseplate for attachment to a tripod really doesn't sit well with me.

Cable releases
All Pentax 67 bodies require a long-throw cable release; that is to say the plunger is a bit longer than usual. B&H has these in various lengths. Cloth releases (abundant and cheap) are a menace, absorbing moisture, rusting and disintegrating at the worst possible moment (that is, when you ware firing the shutter). One exception is Nikon's venerable AR-3 cable release; I have two of these tucked away for emergency use! For a long time now I have used Gepe's uber-flexible stainless steel woven cable release (from B&H) in 20" length. Linhof releases, though unreasonably expensive, are another good investment in reliability. Last time I looked these things were $70!! That's a bit more than a $16.50 Gepe.

The long-established names in cable releases (Linhof, Gepe, Nikon, Hasselblad, Pentax...) are an investment in quality and reliability. Don't fall into the trap of thinking an el-cheapo Chinese-made cable release will do the trick. It is an absolutely infuriating situation when a "this'l-do" cable release you bought for $1.00 self-destructs at the very moment you want that scene on the film...

jaehoppa · Dec 18, 2016

Poisson Du Jour said:
The 67II is still a big camera (with either 105 and 75 lenses) in want of a large, stable baseplate and a stable tripod. Granted, it is not such a menace as the earth-shaking, ear-banging 6x7 and 67 brutes before it (the more noise these cameras make, the more effective they are in scattering the stickybeaks gathered around me!!), but you are still dealing with a large camera and the effects of vibration and lack of stability when using light-duty tripods need to be considered. And you have got plenty time to consider!

A Google search of the GT1545T leaves me a bit uncertain. I have seen (in my dealer's display) Gitzo's newly released carbon fibre Traveller tripods with a load capacity of 12kg (and an eye-watering pricetag of $1,750...). Are these the one and same thing?? None of the Pentax 67s weigh in at an overly-generous 12 kilos of course, but I remain unsure how stable the tripod is without actually trying one out with the camera I will use on it. And taking your camera long to a shop is the best way to settle the debate! My own P67 is 3.4kg with the 75mm f2.8AL lens, matched to a medium-sized Manfrotto CF tripod and magnesium head with 3-axis levels designed to hold it firm in any position (the 67 — not sure if yours has too — has an anti-rotation pin on the base that helps prevent tripod plate creep). Another thing: a tiny baseplate for attachment to a tripod really doesn't sit well with me.

Cable releases
All Pentax 67 bodies require a long-throw cable release; that is to say the plunger is a bit longer than usual. B&H has these in various lengths. Cloth releases (abundant and cheap) are a menace, absorbing moisture, rusting and disintegrating at the worst possible moment (that is, when you ware firing the shutter). One exception is Nikon's venerable AR-3 cable release; I have two of these tucked away for emergency use! For a long time now I have used Gepe's uber-flexible stainless steel woven cable release (from B&H) in 20" length. Linhof releases, though unreasonably expensive, are another good investment in reliability. Last time I looked these things were $70!! That's a bit more than a $16.50 Gepe.

The long-established names in cable releases (Linhof, Gepe, Nikon, Hasselblad, Pentax...) are an investment in quality and reliability. Don't fall into the trap of thinking an el-cheapo Chinese-made cable release will do the trick. It is an absolutely infuriating situation when a "this'l-do" cable release you bought for $1.00 self-destructs at the very moment you want that scene on the film...

Thanks again for the very thorough reply
I agree that the 1 series Gitzo traveler might not be best suited for the P67ii but I doubt I will be using it often on the tripod. Only a handful of times max, thus why I'm looking for the lightest possible set up to get by.
I will also look at the cable release you've mentioned. But then again, I may get by with the self timer haha (I verified that self timer works with mirror lock up).

Any suggestions on a quick release plate (arca-type). Acratech one seems to have good reviews and reasonable in price.

Thanks again!

Pentax 67II question

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