Pastel-like colors from Fuji Superia in DIY-c41.

[laingsoft]

I've been working with the C42 formulas that have been posted around this site, and I managed to get some really interesting results from Fuji Superia 400 in that DIY developer. All of the images that came from that roll seemed to be very nicely colored, but not in a normal Fuji-green sort of way. The photos have a sort of warmth to them that I typically don't get with lab development. Is this just a fluke, and I actually managed to get the light correct for once? Basically I guess my question is, what did I do wrong and how do I do it again?

My process was the standard c-41. I used a tempering bath with a sous vide to keep all the chemicals at 100F.

Steps were:
Tempering bath 100F: 5min
Color Dev: 3'15"
Wash with 100F
Ilford Rapid Fix + Ferric EDTA titrated to appropriate pH: 8 min
Wash: 5 min
Stabilize

The axe photo is fuji superia, The plant is Lomo 400, which in the past has given me warm results like this.

 

[koraks]

not in a normal Fuji-green sort of way. T

FWIW, I've never found Superia to balance towards greenish tints. I've shot a lot of 200 and it renders neutral in balance, with moderate saturation.
Your axe photo seems a bit shifted towards blue to my eyes, but since it's a shadow scene, it's not inappropriate. I do think it's just a tiny bit heavy on the magenta though.

 

[halfaman]

You don't have Fuji-green now but Fuji-magenta attending to your photo. The magenta cast can be greatly eliminated and get something that looks neutral. Saturation is very low, and the image is grainy with some muddy detail. Could be the film, your processing or your scanning workflow. Difficult to say for me as I never use this film before, but I don't see anything fundamentally wrong in the photo indicating that your C-41 formula is bad even it could be not optimal.

 

[koraks]

Saturation is very low

What I found with DIY C41 chemistry was that there were problems with a lack of saturation in the red channel/cyan dye layer which I never managed to resolve. Using Fuji chemistry improved matters tremendously.

 

[foc]

I've been working with the C42 formulas that have been posted around this site, and I managed to get some really interesting results from Fuji Superia 400 in that DIY developer. All of the images that came from that roll seemed to be very nicely colored, but not in a normal Fuji-green sort of way. The photos have a sort of warmth to them that I typically don't get with lab development. Is this just a fluke, and I actually managed to get the light correct for once? Basically I guess my question is, what did I do wrong and how do I do it again?

My process was the standard c-41. I used a tempering bath with a sous vide to keep all the chemicals at 100F.

Steps were:
Tempering bath 100F: 5min
Color Dev: 3'15"
Wash with 100F
Ilford Rapid Fix + Ferric EDTA titrated to appropriate pH: 8 min
Wash: 5 min
Stabilize

The axe photo is fuji superia, The plant is Lomo 400, which in the past has given me warm results like this.

The images have a retro/old colour film look. There was a thread about Vietnam War and what film would recreate that look. I think you might have it for the colour film look.