Paper for Astrophotography

[matt nalley]

I'm looking for recommendations. RC or fiber? Matte or glossy? Variable or graded? What else comes into play?

My dark room experience is limited to a couple years of high school photography (way back in the 90's!). I only made 8x10 prints on multigrade RC paper so that's all I know, but I'm eager to learn more and love to play in the dark room. An astrophotography project is getting me back into the hobby. Specifically a full frame full moon shot.

As for the choice of paper I'm looking for the "best" in terms of high contrast, fine grain, and full tonal range with "true" black. I never really liked a super glossy finish so I'll probably avoid that unless there is a compelling reason to use it in this case. Warm tone paper is also probably not ideal to reproduce the blackness of space surrounding the moon, but again I'm open to ideas.

The end goal is a 16x20 or possibly 20x24 print, depending on focus and film grain obviously, that should last at least 50 years. Based on what I've read so far a lot of people lean towards fiber based paper for long life and overall quality. Of course, there are plenty of counter arguments. I'm a perfectionist, so my attention to detail is sometimes overkill, and I don't mind experimenting a lot even if that means extended periods of print washing. That seems to be a major gripe about fiber, but it won't bother me. (I've already shot about 20 rolls without finding the perfect negative. Some new telescope focusing equipment should help me get there at the next full moon so I can finally move on to the dark room in a few weeks.)

 

[karthik]

Glossy, since you want as much contrast as possible. How about FB glossy air dried instead of ferrotyped?

 

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

I think if you are mad about the quality at astrophotography , you must invest in SBIG , Filters and color photography , spectrography , adaptive optics and large mirrors.

Its winter and you will not be able to take your 50 years archive shots in this time if you live in north.

50 years later , you will not look at your todays pictures because you will be able to 1000 times sharper pictures with digital one.

So dont be hurry.

If you want your famous 1 meter diameter mirror , look at the USAF inflatable mirrors or mercury filled rotating mirrors.

If you have a 1 meter well made glass , you can copy it with epoxy molding and produce many. But fibers causes astigmatisms and you must use bulk epoxy with slowest curing formula and dust free environment.

If you mold a inflatable mirror with epoxy , you can make 1000 mm f :1 mirror and requires 1 meter tube.
You can fill on a plastic film with epoxy and create your mirror or you can make James Webb telescope like mosaic mirror.

Yes , paper , If you can find old , freezed Agfa Brovira paper , it is the best and may be the most expensive now.

Umut

 

[bblhed]

I can't point you to the paper you are looking for, but I would like to recommend that you not photograph the full moon as you will louse a lot of detail, rather start taking photos a few days before, and keep going to a few days after the full moon. I learned this lesson some time ago, the almost full moon photographs better than the actual full moon because the almost full moon has more shadows and therefore more detail. Trying to photograph the full moon is like trying to photograph a flash in a mirror, it can be done but the details get all blown out.

 

[Jim Jones]

You certainly can photograph the full moon in northern latitudes in the winter. It will be higher in the sky than in the summer. In extreme northern latitudes, photograpning the full moon can be difficult in the summer.

A properly exposed high contrast negative of the full moon has plenty of detail. Kodak Tech Pan was my film of choice for both contrast and sharpness. Some of the similar films produced now may do as well.

When it was first made, RC paper had longivity problems. A few of my prints from the 1970s have deteriorated. Some problems may have been due to high volume printing and poor washing. Most still look as good as when new. I used it for most fine art printing until getting an Epson 3800 a few years ago.

 

[Simon R Galley]

Dear Matt,

If you are printing out from a negative I would use a VC ( Variable Contrast ) paper. RC Resin Coated paper is now fine for 50 years + if you want the best use a FB ( Fiber Base ) paper such as Glossy Unglazed best for D.Max ( Maximum black ) then selenium tone, good for 100 years + these are available from several manufacturers.

If its a while since you have printed pm me your address and I will send you a MULTIGRADE printing Manual that shoudl help you save a few sheets.

Simon. ILFORD Photo / HARMAN technology Limited :

 

[jmdco]

Dear Matt,
Glossy paper gives you more contrast.

For RC paper, I like the rendering of the Ilford Pearl MGIV. It is close to the MGIV baryta. You have the same similarities with the versions warmtone in Ilford.

To preserve your pictures, always a fix that respects the time and dilution. Give your attention to fixing. Then thoroughly wash the paper. Washing and fixing will be key.
Finally, pass the photo in a bath of selenium. You will gain in contrast and conservation of the image against the damage.

The barium is most suitable for archiving, but it is more fragile during development (from printing to drying).

The grade variable is easier to use.

Under the enlarger, I set to always be black detail. Paper darkens when it dries, I choose the couple time/diaphragm on the quality of the black. Coming off the fixer, I'm able to see very little film grain. And black should be black. No gray. This allows me to find time basis.
Be careful, the baryta paper darkens more than the RC paper. Adjust your essays until dry.

Also, the washing is a critical operation. I suggest you read the booklet published by Ilford. It contains excellent advice.

All operations: agitations, chemicals (quality and fresh), fixation, washing, drying (with a chamois leather intended only for your paper), patience, a good playlist, will give you results

The darkroom is a pleasure and should remain so.

Sorry for my poor English.

 

[nworth]

Contrast is generally the key in astrophotography. Finding a paper with very high or extreme contrast would seem to be the way to go. (I have no experience with this.) There used to be a number of reprographic papers available that had contrast similar to litho film. There may still be some. I have heard of papers for making prints from x-ray film that might be ideal. Otherwise, you might just want to print on glossy VC at the highest contrast you can get out of it. It may be heretical, but it might be worthwhile to experiment with scanning and digitally printing your photos. The digital tools available allow you extraordinary control.