Paper Developers (Rabbit Holes vs Easy Button)

[NortheastPhotographic]

My people "experiment" in college....

For me this was largely limited to developers and films. Back in those halcyon days of 2005, 6 & 7 I was trying a lot of different options from Photography Formulary, or home mixing from The Darkroom Cookbook. I remember loving Amidol based paper developers but eventually having some issues with them, and then moving on to Ansco 130 which I then standardized on. Many people seem to have found 130 just based on threads here.

Now that I'm rebuilding my darkroom I have various rabbit holes I could go down. Too many! Pyrocat HD or just stick to D76, try a fancy new ADOX paper or stick to that good ol' (well I guess 2013 isn't that old based on what I've read) Ilford Multigrade. Where the heck did all my favorite Oriental papers go?! Grade 3 being...the jam!

Would I be wise to go back to Ansco 130 or should I try some of these options I'm seeing from Ilford? I know 130 is capable of some beautiful results, but a nice and easy liquid mix developer does hold a certain advantage. The other thing I learned in college is that too much testing leads to some amount of choice paralysis for me. So since I can't print yet or do anything about it, and I'm still THINKING about it, I just thought I'd ask!

 

[jvo]

"get your sea legs under you!"

take the easiest, no-brain method to get the kinks out, so to speak. too many variables will definitely lead you down the rabbit hole. once you've had some fun and produced results, shift from there.

good luck!

 

[esearing]

If you are not earning your living from photography and you have some spare cash, by all means go down the rabbit holes. Its the discovery that makes the hobby interesting.

I keep Ethol LPD around and use it 1:2 or 1:4 for a slightly warmer tone. Ansco 130 gives me a truer grey tone and is even a bit blue when used with Bergger NB paper. I tend to purchase film and paper from Ilford because they seem the most dedicated to keeping the film and paper industry alive and keep the products consistent. Bergger is fun to play with but they switch things up every few years so you can't fall in love with any of their products for the long haul unless you want to stock up. Other brands have staples but have changed formulations in recent years so you may not find the old paper/film you loved. Variable Contrast papers allow you to expand/contract as you wish using the graded filters.

Pyro- The problems with pre-mixed HD kits are starting to be more consistent. But there are many who like its unique qualities .
I'm partial to Pyrocat M now, but I see several folks mentioning PMK, HDC, MC, and some of the others. Search for Obsidian Aqua for another variant. Mix your own in the long run.

There are some special Ilford developers too that work really well when pushing or pulling roll film.

 

[Kino]

I agree with jvo that you should at least get back to a good comfort level with your processes before you go shooting off in different directions.

I would use one film developer, one paper developer and one brand of paper for at least a few weeks and then start changing one of the variables at a time to avoid a "spin-out"...

 

[StepheKoontz]

I've been using Dektol but an open to trying different developers. I mainly use RC papers, just because they are so much easier to work with. I'm wondering is ansco 130 is worth trying? I don't print a lot so the extra cost isn't a huge concern.

 

[removed account4]

If you have extra cash maybe I'd use the 130, it has a very long shelf life and that is one of the reasons I have used it over the years.
Too many rabbit holes.
Best thing I ever did was settle on one developer and sit back to watch trip the light fantastic in a search for magic bullets ... Lately I've been thinking when I run out of 130 maybe I will go back to what I was weened on, good olde .. sprint .. its similar not much different than 130 from what my eyes tell me, and their film developer is fantastic, it doesn't block highlights. ( I've never used anything different than sprint speed fix, since about 1981 ).
Have fun, and if you go down the hole, don't forget the canary and carbide lamp!

 

[Rudeofus]

The easiest route is always "take a few snaps with your cell phone and share them in social media". The reason we have this forum is because we are absolutely fond of rabbit holes, nasty surprises and weird challenges. Ansco 130 is beautiful, but expensive due to high cost of Glycin. I use Dektol stock solution, self mixed of course, and it lasts just as long (i.e. many months). In fact the reason I have to mix fresh is not loss of activity, but loss of developer due to carryover!

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

I'm having a feeling I'll be wearing a helmet with a lamp very soon.

My interest in the Ilford stuff was mostly because it seems like they went on a quality push a few years ago. I had NO thought that I'd ever see a newly formulated version of their paper stocks. Frankly, good on 'em as those of us still printing in the darkroom are all true lab rats and we love to play around. Can't. Wait. To. Try. It.

Once I get a densitometer, whooooo boy part time. Actually, I have an X-Rite 881 that I use for process control with C41. I don't suppose that can be adapted to read B&W film and grey targets?

 

[Kino]

Actually, I have an X-Rite 881 that I use for process control with C41. I don't suppose that can be adapted to read B&W film and grey targets?

That's no rabbit hole; you are descending into Dante territory!

 

[John51]

I've been using Dektol but an open to trying different developers. I mainly use RC papers, just because they are so much easier to work with. I'm wondering is ansco 130 is worth trying? I don't print a lot so the extra cost isn't a huge concern.

My film use goes in fits and starts. If the chems can go off, they'll probably go off for me before reaching capacity. I tried 30ml of HC-110 + 15g of sodium carbonate in a litre of water. Works like Dektol but fiercer. At full enlarger height, enough for a 20x16, exposure time is ~ 15 seconds for MGIV. That seems too fast. (Kodak Precision with 150w bulb.) Some tweaking may be in order but it works as is.

 

[esearing]

Ethol LPD is a fantastic starter paper developer and can be bought as liquid or dry. You can use it 1:1 for neutral tone, or diluted up to 1:4 for a warmer tone (softer, not brownish). Its also one that doesn't irritate my skin.

 

[Tom Kershaw]

I've been using the Adox MCC developer recently unless I have a reason to use something else. It keeps very well and is replenishment-compatible so price-wise becomes competitive depending on usage.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

Best thing to do is to make a choice and stick to it. If you like 130, there is no reason to change unless you think it is too expensive. If you like D76 then use it. It is better to not be in a situation where you are always trying to hit a moving target.

And don't test for testing sake. Only test if you have a problem, or perhaps if you want to learn something. You learn a lot more by doing. The forums are full of people that test everything to death, then never take pictures. Taking pictures is what it is all about, even if they aren't perfect.

 

[Tom Kershaw]

And don't test for testing sake. Only test if you have a problem, or perhaps if you want to learn something. You learn a lot more by doing.

I agree, but as you say testing can be helpful if you suddenly run into a problem or want to better understand new or unfamiliar materials before committing to use for more important work or occasions.

 

[Peter Schrager]

Pyrocat MC from scratch
D55 for prints from scratch for prints
Beautiful warm tones