Paper Developer Dilution Question

[brianmichel]

So I'm going to start printing, but not at any large quantity, and I was wondering if I'm able to run a higher dilution of developer to be economic(see also cheap). I'm using Ilford Multigrade developer and I see they suggest a 1+9 or a 1+14 dilution, but would a say 1+20 dilution cause ill affects? Or just really increase dev time?

 

[PhotoJim]

You'd have to try it. You will certainly have to use a longer development time, and capacity will be reduced.

If you can still get an acceptable black out of it, higher dilutions might be just fine.

Personally, I think Ilford Multigrade is inexpensive enough at 1:9 to use it that way. if you want to use cheaper developers, I suggest Kodak Dektol or Ilford Bromophen. Both come as powders, but the mixed cost is significantly lower since a person doesn't have to pay to ship all that liquid.

 

[Ian Grant]

At 1+20 you would drop the contrast significantly and struggle to get a good D-max without a very much longer development time. You also run the risk of developer exhaustion.

Ian

 

[brianmichel]

Hmm, all very valid points that I did not consider. The issue is I want to do some prints but only have 16x20 trays to process this paper, so in order to get enough solution in there I need to mix about 3,250mL of solution.

 

[polyglot]

You might find it works fine with much shallower developer - I regularly use about 600mL in 8x10 trays, which is less than 1cm deep. Works fine. 16x20 means you could do it with about 2.4L at most, perhaps less.

Then again, a new/second-hand set of trays is real cheap - might save you enough on developer that it's worth just getting a set of smaller trays.

 

[Mark Fisher]

If money is tight, better to use a cheaper developer (Arista from Freestyle if you are in the US). If you use Dektol (which I do) store it in full glass bottles if you can. If that is hard to get, PET pop bottles are a good second choice. The enemy to developer life is oxygen. Standard polyethylene bottles (worse, those accordian bottles) allow oxygen to permeate. I've managed to get well over 6 months in glass. I've never had it go bad!

 

[PhotoJim]

Agreed. 8x10 trays are cheap, even if you have to buy them new. You might even be able to get a set of trays for free.

 

[dancqu]

At 1+20 you would drop the contrast significantly and struggle
to get a good D-max without a very much longer development
time. You also run the risk of developer exhaustion. Ian

Needless to say for same working strength solution volume the
more dilute the less capacity. As the developer becomes more
dilute development times increase.

To begin one must decide how long one cares the development
time to be; three, four, five, maybe more minutes. Adjust the
dilution accordingly. Importantly; as long as there is enough
chemistry in that very dilute developer the print will, given
enough time, fully develop in a manor mirroring full
strength development. Development is slow with
very dilute developers but same end results.

I print very few sheets at any one session and have found
VERY dilute chemistry used one-shot the best method for
achieving good chemical milage. That and one-shot
fixer make for single tray processing. A space
saver. The OP may find that method of
work interesting. Dan