I'm 'watching' both of these on eBay for auction. Thanks for the recommendation
I'm 'watching' both of these on eBay for auction. Thanks for the recommendationI'd recommend Tim Rudman's The Photographer's Master Printing Course and Les McLean's Creative B&W Photography.
Oh cool, I didn't think of looking in charity shops! Cheerskeep an eye open in your local charity shops. i found rudman's printing course and his lith book in oxfam shops for about a 1/10 of the silly prices they sometimes go for on eBay
I just got Les McLean's book for £0.01 on Amazon!Bargain!
Kodak Dektol, indicator stop bath, rapid fixer, HCA, (plain water) and photoflo 200. Over the years I've learned that re-use of chemistry is false economy. Always use fresh chemistry when printing, only the stop bath can be saved for re-use.
EDIT: my book recommendations:
Henry Horenstien, "Black and White Photography : A Basic Manual"
David Vestal, "The Craft of Photography"
London, Upton and Stone, "Photography"
Brad:
Did you mean to include Photoflo in this list of print related chemicals?
Kodak Dektol, indicator stop bath, rapid fixer, HCA, (plain water) and photoflo 200. Over the years I've learned that re-use of chemistry is false economy. Always use fresh chemistry when printing, only the stop bath can be saved for re-use.
EDIT: my book recommendations:
Henry Horenstien, "Black and White Photography : A Basic Manual"
David Vestal, "The Craft of Photography"
London, Upton and Stone, "Photography"
I would suggest to use rather liquid form of a developer like Polymax T or something from Ilford. This way you will avoid mixing large quantity of stock solution from powder and problems of storing it. You will mix just what do you need at the moment. With fixers I believe doesn't matter if you will use hardening one or not hardening. Unless you plan to tone your prints. Then non hardening will be better.Very soon I'm going to start printing my own negatives.
I'll be using Ilford multigrade IV Pearl paper printing B&W prints.
I have no clue about which developer, stop and fix to use. I'm assuming they are different to the film development chemicals?
Any pointers would be gratefully received.
Cheers
Jay
I would suggest to use rather liquid form of a developer like Polymax T or something from Ilford. This way you will avoid mixing large quantity of stock solution from powder and problems of storing it. You will mix just what do you need at the moment. With fixers I believe doesn't matter if you will use hardening one or not hardening. Unless you plan to tone your prints. Then non hardening will be better.
Very soon I'm going to start printing my own negatives.
I'll be using Ilford multigrade IV Pearl paper printing B&W prints.
I have no clue about which developer, stop and fix to use. I'm assuming they are different to the film development chemicals?
Any pointers would be gratefully received.
Cheers
Jay
"If I'm not done with my print chemicals, can I leave them in the trays overnight and continue using them in the morning"
I float waxed paper on top of the liquid in trays that I want to re-use in gthe morning. It works fine, I've been doing this for years.
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