PanF, semi-stand & PyrocatHD

[Cor]

Hi,

All this recent discussions on semi-stand development made me want to give it try. I do have quite some 35mm PanF, which could perhaps benefit from this approach. Perhaps PyrocatHd could than tame this sometimes contrasty film.

So has somebody a suggestion on PanF in PyrocatHD?

I do have a couple of questions on the procedure: from what I understand from semi-stand development:

Expose at box speed (that would be nice, I usually end up 1/3 to 1 stop slower when using PyrocatHD).

Pre-wash film for 2 minutes; pour in developer: in case of PyrocatHD use a 1:1:200 dilution. Agitate for 30 seconds. Do the same agitation step half way the development time. (Water) stop and fix, wash etc.

Is the processing temperature very important (I guess not, as long as your ambient temperature is ok).

How do people determine their development time, empirically? And if say: suppose your negatives are too thin after 20 minutes, do you increase with relative big steps, say 25% longer?

Thanks & best,

Cor

 

[erikg]

You pretty much have it. I have used a dilution of 1:1:250 (4ml a+b : 500 water per roll of film) and I agitate every 10 minutes for a total of 45 minutes. I would suggest shooting an entire roll on the same subject, then cut the roll into three, then try three development times, say 20, 30 and 40 minutes. You could do 2 rolls and go out past an hour. Then, make a print from each roll. That will tell you everything you need to know. I wouldn't worry about temp. too much, but I do keep the tanks in a tray of tempered water during development. This is a good film and developer combo, I'll bet you like it.

 

[couldabin]

I'll be interested to hear how this works for you. My experience with semi-stand (4x5 in trays) is that it leaves the film mottled.

 

[donbga]

I'll be interested to hear how this works for you. My experience with semi-stand (4x5 in trays) is that it leaves the film mottled.

Semi-stand is not reccomended for tray development, Film should be developed vertically.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

I'll be interested to hear how this works for you. My experience with semi-stand (4x5 in trays) is that it leaves the film mottled.

I've posted several times on this subject previously.

I do semi-stand development in trays and slosher trays with excellent results - I get uniform development with no mottling or streaking.

I develop with Pyrocat, I presoak the film in tempered pH neutral water. It is important that the film emulsion be positioned face up in the tray.

 

[Kobin]

Semi-stand is not reccomended for tray development, Film should be developed vertically.

I've developed sheet film flat in trays, even semi-stand, with no mottling but the Pyrocat HD I use doesn't seem to produce bromide byproducts that would interfere with even development. I'm far from an expert, but this is my anecdotal experience.

K.

 

[fhovie]

My observations on semi-stand:
Fine grain films do not get the accutance boost that faster films get:
- This kind of makes sense knowing that the lack of agitation will cause the
coarser grains to convert to Mackie lines. I would not choose Pan F for
high sharpness - Pan F will give grainless negs and great resolution at the
expense of being prone to run away contrast
- Semi-stand processing will increase the film speed of Pan F a little and can
give you some highlight compensation - you will get slightly coarser grain
- I have always reduced the strength a little for semi-stand processing -
I use 1:1:100 for normal Pyrocat-P development. I use 1:1:150 for
semi-stand development.
- TRI-X gives me the greatest accutance in semi-stand development. It is
so great that at 55 minutes the Mackie lines are not a benefit. I limit
TRI-X to 35 minutes semi-stand
- My Film of choice for landscape photography using semi-stand is FP4+
for an SBR of 5 (typical evening morning contrast) I develop for 55 minutes
with 4 agitations. I get great sharpness and still very fine grain. Although
there is an increase in film speed, I still shoot it at 80. I get better shadow
detail and still have printable skies.

I use Jobo tanks - the film is vertical - I do not know that it makes a difference.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I too noticed that at stand development with Pyrocat-HD, in higher than normal dilutions, Tri-X becomes 'unbearably' sharp looking. Semistand looks better and gives enough boost for some real interesting looking prints.
I also second that FP4 seems to work better with the stand development, but I've had to agitate at about thirds of the complete development time, or else I get the streaking.
- Thomas

My observations on semi-stand:
Fine grain films do not get the accutance boost that faster films get:
- This kind of makes sense knowing that the lack of agitation will cause the
coarser grains to convert to Mackie lines. I would not choose Pan F for
high sharpness - Pan F will give grainless negs and great resolution at the
expense of being prone to run away contrast
- Semi-stand processing will increase the film speed of Pan F a little and can
give you some highlight compensation - you will get slightly coarser grain
- I have always reduced the strength a little for semi-stand processing -
I use 1:1:100 for normal Pyrocat-P development. I use 1:1:150 for
semi-stand development.
- TRI-X gives me the greatest accutance in semi-stand development. It is
so great that at 55 minutes the Mackie lines are not a benefit. I limit
TRI-X to 35 minutes semi-stand
- My Film of choice for landscape photography using semi-stand is FP4+
for an SBR of 5 (typical evening morning contrast) I develop for 55 minutes
with 4 agitations. I get great sharpness and still very fine grain. Although
there is an increase in film speed, I still shoot it at 80. I get better shadow
detail and still have printable skies.

I use Jobo tanks - the film is vertical - I do not know that it makes a difference.