I'm a goober and forgot to slip a snippet of the box I just shot into the back of my camera. I assumed I was shooting HP5+, but I found out after I took it out that it was Pan F Plus. So, I shot about half the roll at box speed, and the other half at 400. I'm assuming I'm mostly out of luck here since my metering would have been miles off, but am still coming for advice. I process at home with hc-110 -- does anyone have recommendations about what dilution/time I should use to get as much as I can out of what I shot at 400?
unless the underexposed half roll has stuff you really want/need, I would write off that part and develop normally for PanF.
Pushing PanF to 400 is not likely to be successful. The datasheet for the film lists e.i. 64 (1/3 stop push) as its fasted recommended film speed. You could (in total darkness of course) cut the film in half (approximately) and try to push the underexposed half. You would probably get some frames in the wrong half, but maybe could save more of the underexposed half. Maybe.
I scan and print darkroom, but I figure scanning would give me my best shot at recovering anything. Thanks!If you have half the frames at the correct exposure but the other half at 3 stops underexposed, the key question that only you can answer is, are you prepared to accept all the frames being a compromise and possibly a seriously adverse compromise.
Final question: are you a skilled scanner rather than a darkroom printer? If you are then maybe the compromised frames can be saved by scanning but I have no knowledge of scanning so cannot comment on that
pentaxuser
HC110 dil.E (1+47) 5’:30”. I don’t think HC110 is a good solution for PanF+, which is not so easy find a good match of a developer for. Probably even Rodinal gives less grain than HC110 with this film. And forget the 400 exposed shots
How quickly does the latent image fade?This response is entirely tongue in cheek.
With Pan F's poor latent image retention characteristics, you could:
Much more quickly than most other films.How quickly does the latent image fade?
The problem is the uncertainty of the fade rate. I expect to see a post now that says: "I took a whole roll of Pan F exposures in 1950 and only discovered the roll in a drawer yesterday. I developed it last night and guess what? They are all perfect !I totally agree with @DREW WILEY.
You could probably straighforwardly reshoot the first half of your film and have almost no trace of the original exposures.
This. Develop it and move on, they might not be so bad, film is amazingly hardy.I would just add 20% to the normal development time and get it over with
Thanks so much, all! I ended up using the split method and processing one of the roll half at box speed, and the other with 20% overdevelopment. At least that was the plan. In true goober form, I accidentally swapped the film in the changing bag so that the normally exposed photos ended up being overdeveloped. As expected, many of the photos were unrecoverable, but there was still a little something there! The negatives look very weird, almost like a positive when held up to the light. I made one test print with the highest possible contrast filter on my enlarger, and the results were passable. I think I'll get more out of them from scanning, but I'm happy I got anything at all. Lesson learned!
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