Great results John. I've had trouble with Pan F Plus in XTOL-R, but fine in XTOL 1+1.5. As you can see I've just today put some Pan F Plus / Tetenal Ultrafin 1+29 images in the gallery here. In the past I've had mixed results with Ultrafin but Iooking back on notes, I think I was using it too strong. 1+19 - 1+29 seems a good range.
Thank you Tom, I was admiring your North West Scotland images earlier.
I had always thought that one of the criticisms of Pan F was its high inherent contrast but your first sentence reads as if it has a lower contrast that other slow speed films?Another characteristic about this film is its inherent contrast. Of all the films out there (especially the slower ones), there is no other slower film which has as low a contrast. I am not certain that I like this trait. Consider APX 100 and its rather robust contrast.
Comments?
I had always thought that one of the criticisms of Pan F was its high inherent contrast but your first sentence reads as if it has a lower contrast that other slow speed films?
pentaxuser
I have been using Pan F Plus for long exposure (3-10 seconds) for softly lit water scenes . . developed in d76 1+1. Lovely. Next roll will be developed in Microdol X to compare. I am visiting this same spot this weekend . . .View attachment 229821
hey cliveh !Pan F is a wonderful film. You just have to expose it correctly and develop it correctly.
Yes, Ilford say that its inherent contrast is among the lowest of slow films extant. - David LygaI had always thought that one of the criticisms of Pan F was its high inherent contrast but your first sentence reads as if it has a lower contrast that other slow speed films?
pentaxuser
I guess that this point is my primary reason for this thread. It is difficult to get used to such a short straight-line Characteristic Curve with such a slow film. But, I guess that 'deficiency' has its merits in terms of tonality for some subjects. - David LygaPan F doesn't handle high contrast subjects well. This is due to it's characteristic curve with very little straight line in the middle. Don't confuse this with developed contrast. It can be easily developed to make softly-lit scenes contrasty enough on the film for sparkly rich prints. In fact, you need to be careful not to overdevelop it.
Yes, Ilford say that its inherent contrast is among the lowest of slow films extant. - David Lyga
I’d like to correct a few myths/preconceived beliefs about pan-f.
Pan-F is a high contrast film with a UNIQUE spectral sensitivity.
It is very finicky with regards to exposure. A 1/3 error will show right away. Therefore if you have a slightly miscalibrated camera it will tell you right away. Therefore expose at iso25 and let everything fall into place.
Latent image evaporation is more a myth than reality. Sure, it might have some evaporation/degradation but not as much as we might think. First of all, one shouldn’t judge by the side markings because as we all know, bulk film always has very weak markings to begin with. For example, my tmax100 bulk markings don’t even show unless I’m looking for it with a loupe. Same for tri-x, hp5...
As a matter if fact, I have once shot 20 rolls of 10 year expired pan-f and the edge markings were so clear and contrasty. This fact alone contradicts anything that has been said about latent image, as it should have been very faint, right? How come, after 10 years of exposure, were they so loud?
3 things: expose at 25. Use fresh developer. Develop within 6 months.
If you wait more than 6 months to develop ANY FILM, please let me suggest that you are doing something wrong.
Never forget: expose at 25. Pan-f is as finicky as slide film. And enjoy the unique spectral sensitivity. Beautiful stuff.
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