PAN-F 50 in DEKTOL?

[DannL]

I've been developing all my Delta Pro 35mm films in stock solution of Dektol diluted to 1:2. I usually develop for 3 minutes in a Yankee Master tank with generous agitation. Now I'm going thru my first roll of Pan-F 50 and when it comes time to develop, are there any suggested changes to my current dilution/times to enhance this formula? Thanks, Dann

 

[Gerald Koch]

Pan F builds contrast very rapidly. Using such an active developer as Dektol may not be the best choice. You may wind up with very difficult negatives to print.

 

[rbarker]

Developing film in paper developer like Dektol is sometimes done for special effects, like boulder-sized grain and extreme contrast. Subjecting Pan F to that treatment might be interesting, but it won't exhibit the characteristics that are usually associated with the film - extremely fine grain and creamy tonality. For those characteristics, try Ilford's DD-X developer, instead.

 

[removed account4]

I've been developing all my Delta Pro 35mm films in stock solution of Dektol diluted to 1:2. I usually develop for 3 minutes in a Yankee Master tank with generous agitation. Now I'm going thru my first roll of Pan-F 50 and when it comes time to develop, are there any suggested changes to my current dilution/times to enhance this formula? Thanks, Dann

hi dann

i develop my film in print developer ( ansco130 ) i dilute it anywhere from 1:5 to 1:20 depending ...usually it is 1:10 for roll film and 1:5 for sheet film.

i had a long conversation one day with steffan cooper at photographic systems in new mexico and he told me of an "olde timer in colorado" who still processed all of his film in dektol.

since i haven't ever processed in dektol before, i am just guessing ...
you might try a test roll with your dektol dilute maybe 1:5 or 1:10. agitate first min constantly and then 10 sec/min after that for about 7 to 10 mins ... i've settled in on about 8 mins or so (if i don't agitate and "let stand" i leave it for about 25 mins )


good luck!

-john

ps. people have been telling me that print developer wasn't made for processing film for 7 + years -- have fun!

 

[Gerald Koch]

Kodak originally listed D-72 (Dektol) as a universal developer. Such developers are usually used diluted 1:2 or 1:3 for prints and in more dilute solutions say starting at 1:10 for films. The problem with universal developers are that they are either good print developers or good film developers but usually not both. Is their some particular reason why you wish to use Dektol?

 

[Curt]

Dektol 1:100 for 20 minutes with no agition. Follow it with a tea stop and tea with cream for the fix.

 

[DannL]

. . . i had a long conversation one day with steffan cooper at photographic systems in new mexico and he told me of an "olde timer in colorado" who still processed all of his film in dektol.

Darn, for a moment I felt like a new pig in a new pile of shi#. I do love those knarly boulders of silver in my negatives. ;-)

+++++++

Thanks everyone for the info thus far. This is great stuff . . . the information that is. The more the better.

. . . . Is their some particular reason why you wish to use Dektol?

It's available (on hand), and to determine all it's limitations? I wonder if adding Mentos will cause the tank to explode? ;-)

 

[Curt]

I just finished developing a roll of Ilford Pan F in Rodinal 1:50 minimal agitation 12 minutes; Results were as good as it gets.

 

[dancqu]

It's available (on hand), and to determine all it's limitations?

Dektol's limitation is it's being a VERY active, highly
carbonated, hydroquinone containing developer. Quick
high contrasts are it's forte. Good for prints.

To tame it add some bicarbonate of soda; A&H baking
soda. It will never be as tame as D76 what with all
that carbonate.

For prints and film you're better off with D76 although
it's very long on sulfite. For prints add carbonate. It's
off the shelf.

Better yet as universal developers are the carbonated
metol sulfite types; ie, Ansco 120, FX-1, Beer's A,
and Beutler's. Dan

 

[pentaxuser]

If you examine threads on dev/film combos, you'll normally a great divergence of opinion but the one combo almost everyone agrees with in APUG is Pan F and Rodinal. This has got to be significant.

It's worth doing a search to check out whether your conclusions are the same as mine. On my night school course I tried Pan F, HP5+ and some of the Delta films. All developed with ID11. Up to 8 x 10 I couldn't detect a lot of difference in the prints' appearance but on balance Pan F and ID11 probably gave me the best range of tones and detail in the prints.

pentaxuser

 

[removed account4]

Darn, for a moment I felt like a new pig in a new pile of shi#. I do love those knarly boulders of silver in my negatives. ;-)

+++++++

Thanks everyone for the info thus far. This is great stuff . . . the information that is. The more the better.



It's available (on hand), and to determine all it's limitations? I wonder if adding Mentos will cause the tank to explode? ;-)

hehehe, sorry to break the news to you

good to see you are having fun on the other side of the street

-john