Pacemaker Speed focal plane shutter test

[mattk]

Planning on looking at a Speed Graphic tomorrow. I once had one without the FP shutter and have no idea what to look for to determine if it is in good shape/functional. I would imaging that removing the Graflock back and watching the shutter on 1 sec or "B" would be one way--can anyone provide me some insight?
Thanks

 

[Jon Shiu]

Hi, if you can, take the back off and inspect the curtain. Just make sure it is in good shape and running smoothly. The shutter is a long roller curtain with different sized slits in it for various exposure speeds. As you wind the curtain knob, different slits will be positioned to move across the film. It is designed to work best at faster speeds, so it doesn't have a 1 sec. or B setting. Just different sized slits and spring tension levels. Anyway, just make sure the curtain moves smoothly when you release the shutter. Try the different spring tensions also.

Jon

It does have both a T position and a fully open position at the end of the curtain when you have released the shutter as many times (as far) as it will go.

 

[Jim Noel]

It should have a setting which causes it to stop at a fully open position. Otherwise front shutters would be unusable. If I could get to mine at the moment, I would give you the letter which corresponds to this.

If the shutter will move smoothly at the lower tension settings, it should be fine.

 

[Dan Fromm]

Which Speed? Pacemaker or earlier?

Not that it matters a lot. Take the lensboard off, open the focusing panel's cover. Wind the shutter key all the way up. Fire the shutter, watching from one end of the camera, see what happens. Continue until the shutter stops at the wide open position. Fire it again, it should close. Depending on the model of Speed, there will be two (Pacemaker) or many (earlier) tension settings. Repeat at all of the tensions. If the shutter hangs (more likely at low speed) it will have to be overhauled.

All that this will tell you is whether the shutter functions. To check speeds, shoot a test strip with reversal film. This will tell you whether the shutter speeds and your light meter are in good enough agreement.

 

[Whiteymorange]

It should have a setting which causes it to stop at a fully open position. Otherwise front shutters would be unusable. If I could get to mine at the moment, I would give you the letter which corresponds to this.

If the shutter will move smoothly at the lower tension settings, it should be fine.

The letter is "O". It will be open at "T" too, but for timed exposures. O is the end of the run on the curtain.

I found the FP shutter to be much more consistent when I run through a few different times having set the tension higher than I need it, sort of like exercising a leaf shutter. I'll set the tension up around 5 and run through the letters a few times, then set it where it should be for the exposure I want and test that at least once before taking any picture. In general, it's pretty good.

 

[df cardwell]

last tip

at the lowest tension,
turn the camera upside down,
let it run uphill

smooth, slow, steady

sounds pretty, really

 

[Jim Jones]

As Jim and Dan say, if it works well at low speeds, it should be fine. Sometimes these shutters need cleaning and lubricating every decade or two. It's a simple job for the mechanically adept. If you disassemble the shutter, first mark on the shutter curtain an edge of the back opening so you can correctly engage the gear train upon reassembly.

 

[mattk]

Well I bought it. I now own a Pacemaker Speed. The slow speeds are, well, slow. Too slow. I managed to figure out how to increase the tension and probably went too far. I am going to see about a making a DIY shutter tester to help with the task. What is the recommended lube? Sewing mahine oil(or something very light) or more of a dry lubricant like powdered graphite. Anyone know what the standard precharge in terms of revolutions should be? The curtain looks to be in great shape. It all came in the original box and I'm trying to sort out all of the contents--most were never used(the flash reflector didn't even have a fingerprint. For those of you that have lubed these things before, did you take the shutter rollers out or just use a syringe to get at the parts.

 

[Jim Jones]

The Army's technical manual TM 11-2352 describes maintenance for the Pacemaker and Anniversary models. Pertinent instructions are:
(8) With a screw driver, obtain trension on lower roller by winding the roller counter5clockwiswe. Hold the roller and pull the curtain out by hand several times to remove roller slack; then slowly release the spring tension.
(9) Position retainer O-20 over the shaft and start screw H-48. Draw a pencil line on the retainer, and using this as an index, wind the roller six revolutions counterclockwise. Tighten screw H-48 so the screw shoulder fits in a cut-out of retainer O-20
(17) To check focal plane shutter speeds:
(a) set the shutter at the O aperture; with the camera either horizontal or vertical, the shutter opening should move slowly and smoothly across the camera. The curtain should latch in position with the shutter release depressed. The winding key should lock and should not rotate.
(b) If the curtain movement is not smooth and even, and if the curtain does not latch when the movement is completed, the tension on lower roller O-26 must be increases as described in (8) above The tension should be added and checked by half turns above the six turns prescribed."
The manual also says, Caution: Use only recommended lubricants on this shutter." The correct lube for the shutter (in 1950) was P-38 (Sig C stock No. 6G1398.7). I'd use any light oil (but never never WD-40). I put a bit of oil on a tiny screwdriver or toothpick and apply it to the bearings without removing the shutter rollers.

 

[df cardwell]

Probably no need to say this,
but the key to success with shooting, owning,
or maintaining a Speed is to not look down on it.

It is a simple and reliable design that - despite not being a Linhof or Sinar -
will accurately and quickly focus, and accurately and consistently expose your film.

Go easy on the repair: this is where most old Speeds die.
A drop of oil goes a long way.
Get a repair manual.

And good luck - it'll be a good friend for a long time.

 

[Dan Fromm]

df, I respect my Speed. I see it as a Leica interpreted by BLH or the Altoona Works.

 

[df cardwell]

Like a UP Challenger, or a P-51.

 

[ricksplace]

My pre-anny speed (circa 1938) still works perfectly. It was a press camera (name of the Paper on the inside of the camera, and on a bag mag), so it got a lot of use, but not abuse. Take care of them, and these old buggers just keep going. Dependable and zero maintenance. What more could you ask for?

I have never checked the shutter speeds, but at the speeds I usually choose, the negs are exposed correctly.