Overlapping Frames Hasselblad 24 Back

[wjlapier]

In my haste to use a new to me Hasselblad 500c I purchased a 24 back while waiting for a 12 back to arrive--which took forever with FEDEX. I've used 120 film a few times in the 24 back and the first two frames are either so close to each other there is no space or a slight overlap. Rest of the frames are OK. But today I developed a roll of 220 film from the same back and I have three frames slightly overlapped.

Reading a bit about spacing or lack of it I've come to several conclusions. 1: CLA the back--it cost me $50 and it's like new on the exterior but David Odess seems to be very busy so I need another suggestion for a tech, or deal with the wait. 2: Be more observant about how I start the roll in the back--someone said count 7 rotations to frame 1 ( I think this for the 120 back ). 3: Don't be too aggressive advancing the roll to 1--I didn't think I was, but I'll be more gentle...

I have another roll in the back that is about done, so I'll see how that one comes out eventually. So, this is about a 220 back with the 24 in the button on top of the back. Numbers match FWIW.

Also, I plan on using the 24 back more as I'm buying a bunch of 220 Velvia soon. No more 120 in the 220 back, at least for a while.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Overlapping frames in Hasselblad backs can be corrected with a CLA. Keep the 120 film in the 120 backs and 220 film in 220 backs. If you are going to be shooting 220, then you should get the 220 backs CLA'd.

 

[shutterfinger]

Modern films are thinner than their predecessors. Fuji films are 3.5 mil while Kodak and Ilford are 4.5 mil and Arista is 3 mil thick.
Increasing the distance the film has to travel across the film plane per wind will correct the spacing issue. Adding .008 inch to the diameter of the take up roller or the center of the take up spool before attaching the film should correct the problem.
Backing paper is .004 inch thick.

 

[bdial]

You can experiment with adjusting the start point, for example, instead of lining the arrows at the pointer run the arrows slightly beyond the pointer on the back.
Zack's camera repair (an Photrio sponsor) could CLA the back.

 

[Alan9940]

Sounds like the same issue I had recently with two of my A12 backs. Sent both off to David Odess a few weeks ago. He's the best, IMO, and worth the wait. He told me he's about 8 weeks out now.

 

[shutterfinger]

If the roll film holder uses a clutch system for film advancing then a CLA is the only thing that will correct it.

 

[BrianShaw]

Are you interested in another option for a tech? If so, it might help to say where you are or if you are willing to ship.

Steve Choi at Steve's Camera Repair, Culver City CA is my recommendation.

 

[wjlapier]

I contacted Zack's Repair and he doesn't have the parts to CLA the back. I'm in SE Washington state. I'll check with Steve Choi. Thanks for the rec.

 

[wjlapier]

Are you interested in another option for a tech? If so, it might help to say where you are or if you are willing to ship.

Steve Choi at Steve's Camera Repair, Culver City CA is my recommendation.

Ouch! Up to $200 for CLA and parts if needed. I could keep buying a24 backs... Or stop shooting 220. But I just purchased 3 boxes of 220 Velvia so...

 

[BrianShaw]

For just a back??????

 

[wjlapier]

Yep. $145 for a CLA and maybe an additional $50 for parts if needed. Then there is postage back and forth. Zack's is much more reasonable but no parts. I might send it to David Odess and just wait for it if it takes 10 weeks--about when I'd like to have it back. I see he charges $90 for a CLA.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Yep. $145 for a CLA and maybe an additional $50 for parts if needed. Then there is postage back and forth. Zack's is much more reasonable but no parts. I might send it to David Odess and just wait for it if it takes 10 weeks--about when I'd like to have it back. I see he charges $90 for a CLA.

$90 for a CLA is about what I have paid at Samys Camera on Fairfax.

 

[wjlapier]

Talked to David Odess and got some great advice. If that doesn't work the back needs to go in.

 

[mitrajoon]

In my haste to use a new to me Hasselblad 500c I purchased a 24 back while waiting for a 12 back to arrive--which took forever with FEDEX. I've used 120 film a few times in the 24 back and the first two frames are either so close to each other there is no space or a slight overlap. Rest of the frames are OK. But today I developed a roll of 220 film from the same back and I have three frames slightly overlapped.

Reading a bit about spacing or lack of it I've come to several conclusions. 1: CLA the back--it cost me $50 and it's like new on the exterior but David Odess seems to be very busy so I need another suggestion for a tech, or deal with the wait. 2: Be more observant about how I start the roll in the back--someone said count 7 rotations to frame 1 ( I think this for the 120 back ). 3: Don't be too aggressive advancing the roll to 1--I didn't think I was, but I'll be more gentle...

I have another roll in the back that is about done, so I'll see how that one comes out eventually. So, this is about a 220 back with the 24 in the button on top of the back. Numbers match FWIW.

Also, I plan on using the 24 back more as I'm buying a bunch of 220 Velvia soon. No more 120 in the 220 back, at least for a while.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

[mitrajoon]

Why not try Hasselblad NA in New Jersey? I've found them fast and reasonable as far as price.

 

[wjlapier]

Why not try Hasselblad NA in New Jersey? I've found them fast and reasonable as far as price.

I didn't think that could be an option. I'll look into it.

 

[etn]

If you have your 220 back CLA‘d, you can have it converted for 120 film at the same time. 220 is pretty much useless nowadays, unless you have a large inventory of 220 rolls in your freezer.
The conversion is done by replacing some gears inside the back. Don‘t ask me the exact details (it can probably be seen in service manuals). I know repairmen here who have done this operation. Finding cheap, good condition 220 backs and having them converted can be less expensive than equivalent condition 120 backs. This is particularly true for recent A12N / A24N backs.